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Zippy's Resident Milf
5,592 Posts



Above is what the typical set up looks like, including ours before we added some shiny caps and painted the rusty trunk black.


The EGR valve is the "exhaust gas recirculation" valve. In all honesty, when thinking performance, the idea is to keep the intake track as cool as possible and the air going in as compressed as possible... so why heat it up? Just getting rid of the extra heat has got to count for something, right? Well don't expect any dyno, timeslip or seat of the pants improvements. The EGR is only operational when you are cruising about. At idle and at WOT, the valve is closed. It's removal is mostly for aesthetics, especially on a show car. Plain and simple... it's an eyesore sitting on top of the motor, even with a pretty makeover...

Here are some shots of our various attempts to improve its looks over time.

Before (stock form)...

After (with pretty covers)...

EGR with BBK Throttle body/plenum...

Completely gone...


Something to think about: The prefect time to do this is when you are going from exhaust manifolds to headers. The worst part is wrestling with the tube and cap on the exhaust manifold from under the car. It's not hard, just tedious. Another good time to do this mod is if you are swapping over to a different plenum, because you will have to take the EGR off of your old plenum anyway. Some plenums even eliminate the EGR. So, if you are thinking about either of these mods, you might combine the EGR delete with them. In our case, we had already gone to BBK headers and to a BBK tb/plenum, but were not sold on the delete at that time. So... just remember, our parts will look a bit different from a stock car, but the steps to remove the EGR system are the same.

*PLEASE* Before you read this write up, keep this in mind. I believe in doing things so that are (a) reversible (b) look good when you are done. So, I might take some extra steps to do things the right/long way. That being said, I have heard some say they cut the EGR trunk that mounts to the plenum and weld the hole up and reattach it. Depends if you can weld and what you want it to look like. Not sure on cost to have this done, but might help if you have a good relationship with them. Now, in regards to the tube attached to the exhaust manifold... some will cut it, squish it flat and bend it over so it seals. Others might weld it shut or place a penny between the tube end and manifold inlet, cut the tube and screw the cap back down. I think you are just asking for a leak, but it can be done that way on the cheap. Why rig it when it's just a few bucks to fix it the right way and not have to worry about leaks? As for the vacuum lines, I opted to delete what was unneeded and reallocate/rearrange the left over tubes to replace and shorten what was kept. You can snap/cut-off and cover the unused ports with a vacuum cap. You can also just cap them where they disconnect and leave them alone. So when reading this write up, just remember my way is not set in stone, but it is the cleanest way I've found without breaking or ruining anything and completely reversible.

In the end, we actually had to reverse the process to pass I'm glad I was thorough and clean with my deletion. It allowed me to go back to stock enough to pass emissions.

Zippy's Resident Milf
5,592 Posts


If you delete your EGR system, you are going to have a code/check engine light. To get rid of the code, you will need to have the computer program modified to reflect the deletion. It's not a code that will affect the drivability; however, it will always be there. Think about this... with the light always on, you will never know if any other system is throwing a code, without constantly using a code checker. To rectify this predicament for ourselves, We got a tuner from American Muscle, tuned by Bama Tuning. We told them we had to pass emissions, that the car could not code for the EGR deletion, so they turned off our EGR. We went for emissions testing, but it still failed. It was the P1000 “readiness code” that caused us to fail.

So, we failed our emissions due to the computer not being ready. Still pending was the EGR, EVAP, and CATALYST systems. EVAP was due to us having too much gas in the car, ok no worries. But immediately we thought...EGR and CATALYST (egr delete and rear O2 delete), but both were turned off in the tune??? They should not be showing up at all. What was going on??? So we began to research. Let me define some terms I will be using in my explanation:

ECM: Any car's computer, new or old type.

OBD I: Version I is the type in 96 and older cars… there is typically no emissions interface with the ECM, but the car must run on a dyno and pass a sniffer test in all test conditions it is presented.

ODB II: Version II is the type in 96 and newer. No sniffer or Dyno test, but now there is a computer interface with the state emissions computer. This emissions computer checks for various things (depending on the State) to be sure the car is operating with all its emission equipment functioning properly.

P1000: The general readiness code in OBD II ECMs. If this code is present in the car's ECM, it has not passed completely through its readiness check of the car's emissions systems. AKA the car has not been driven enough to meet all of the conditions the computer needs to check off all the systems as operating properly.

Ok, a bit of information about the emissions standards WE must pass here in Georgia. From what we have learned about Georgia testing on our OBD II car: Georgia says the car's ECM must have completed it's readiness tests to pass emissions. So basically, if you have a P1000 code pending, it is an automatic fail. Preliminary indications are that the P1000 will still be in the computer, pending, if a) you have a code set with check engine light or b) you have part of the emissions system disabled and then turned off by a tune, so the computer can not check it off its "functioning properly" list.

So to fix "a" on our car, since we had an EGR delete and thereby a code, we got a tune to eliminate the EGR from the system check. The tuner turned off the EGR for our EGR delete and rear O2s since we have no cats. This should have solved the problem, but did not. This leads us to "b", but is a bit unclear due to mixed results seen on the internet for like cars. The reason we believe "b" is true for our ECM, is due to our Catalyst failure this year. Before the tune, we had never had an issue passing emissions, but we have had our catalytic converters deleted for years. Why suddenly now is the catalyst system showing up as a problem with the ECM on emissions? Let's closely examine the changes from one year to the next. The reason we never saw an ECM issue in the past, is that from day one, we have had a set of good functioning MIL eliminators hooked on our rear O2s. These MIL eliminators send the computer a false reading that says the rear o2 is reading the cats and they are operating correctly. As we still have our MIL's and they are functioning, this should have again been the case this year, tune or no tune. But now the car is saying the catalyst system is not ready. The only change was the new tune, which has the rear O2's turned off. This tells me that with the rear O2 system turned off in the tune, there is no communication between the rear O2's and the ECM, so the ECM is stuck waiting on hold for the O2's. While the computer waits, it holds the P1000 code. So, it is no surprise that the emissions test is also showing the EGR, as it is turned off in the tune as well.

Some say if the disabled component is turned off in the tune, the car will eventually clear the P1000 with enough drive time. That the ECM will learn that the "turned off component" is not something it needs to include in its readiness testing and it will, in time, stop waiting for it. Well, we did not have the time to wait to see if that theory would pan out on our car before passing the emissions testing, so we went back to the stock tune and TEMPORARILY reinstalled the EGR. (see the end of this write up for the "temporary" conversion). Now that we have passed emissions, we plan to test this very theory on our car. We will again load a tune that turns off the EGR system. We will remove the EGR again and see if the P1000 goes away over time. It is possible that we simply did not give our car enough time to clear the P1000 with the new tune. To make all this even more complicated, Ford decided to make each computer batch with algorithms that are unique to each batch of computers. Even like models and years could contain different algorithms. So what works on one 2003 Mustang GT, might not work on the next, due to a different set of algorithms from a different production batch of ECMs. So, the only way to know what will work for you is by testing what can be modified on your own computer and still clear the P1000.

Now, online I have seen some can specifically turn off the P1000 code in their tune, but our tuner can't do this on ours. Even still, I don't know if Georgia's emissions computers will look past the P1000 code. Let me explain that statement a bit. Some say the original testing of OBD II computers would only look for the P1000 in the computer, if it was not found then the car was fine. So conceivably you could turn off the P1000 in the tune, yet still have a code or check engine light and pass. From what I was always told about Georgia, the car would be checked for the P1000. If it was clear and there were no check engine lights you were fine. So you could turn off the P1000 and pull out your check engine bulb and pass. Now, I hear that in some states there is new OBD II testing that actually probes the car's computer for feedback on the readiness of each part of the emission system. Thereby bypassing the computer's statement that it is ready and asking the computer to prove it. That being said, even if the P1000 was gone the emission computer would still look to see if the emission equipment had been checked off as passing by the car's ECM. The government is getting hip to the car enthusiasts' tricks and making it harder to modify cars. Even the MIL eliminators we have are no longer available for sale due to government constraints.

Zippy's Resident Milf
5,592 Posts

As stated above, I did none of the before mentioned short cuts, so… first things first, you need to buy a block off plate for the EGR valve and a block off cap for the tube end that goes to the header/exhaust manifold. There are quite a few retailers for both the block off plate and cap, some even sell them as a kit. You can even find a kit at Ford Racing, if you can believe it. Most are utilitarian looking, but for this install I wanted something that was going to look as nice as possible, remember this is a show car.

We found the UPR Block off plate and based on the picture and description was lead to believe it was Satin billet.

This was not the case, it was basically a thick plate of stamped Aluminum.

This is a comparison to a satin finished piece...

After a quick call to UPR, pointing out the deceptive description on the website, they did the best they could do to make it right and polished one to replace the one we ordered. Like a mirror...

But, if I had to do it over again, I would go with Jeg's block off plate. It’s a bit more expensive, but the pictured part looks great in high polish. It also comes with a gasket and button head bolts to boot.

Not true for the UPR plate-only deal. As for our bolts, we purchased chrome button head bolts from Summit.

Since we have headers, I was able to take our old removed stock exhaust manifold to Home Depot and fit a brass cap to it. It was cheaper than ordering the cap from yet another vendor and paying shipping. Here is cap that worked for us, so you don't have to deal with the headache of trial and error yourself.


Zippy's Resident Milf
5,592 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited by Moderator)

you can start on top or under the car, as it really doesn't matter. Messing with anything exhaust, I'm always the most worried about seized bolts and want them completed, so I opt for the perceived hardest first. That way, if I have to bail and rethink things, I can before I completely disable the vehicle. So, I went for the hardest part and need to go under the car first. You want to jack the car up and secure it on jack stands at the frame rails.

Then, you have to locate where the tube enters the exhaust manifold/header.

Now before you start wrenching, use some PB Blaster on the nut to penetrate and break the bond that heat and time has caused. After letting it soak a bit, you will need a 1 1/16" wrench to get this bad-boy off. I found that the wrench was cheaper at Advance versus Autozone.

It’s a tight squeeze in there and you won't have a lot of swing room. I tried to use an adjustable wrench first, but with the tighter fit of the headers, it was not happening. However, with a stock manifold, you can probably make it work. You must use the open end since there is a tube attached. To get maximum throw on the wrench, flip it over each time you turn it fully. The way the head is angled, this method will get you a bit more turn.

Here is a demonstration of what I mean about increasing your throw by simply flipping the wrench. I have brought the wrench and cap in the house for a demonstration of the position change in the arm of the wrench by just simply flipping it over. I will keep the cap stationary and place the open side of the jaws in the exact same orientation. The only change will be what side of the wrench is facing up. You will notice the drastic difference in the arm position. In a tight spot this arm position change might mean the difference in being able to turn the hardware or not. It is a definite life saver with our tight squeeze now that we have headers.

If you use the 1 1/16" wrench, you should not have any issues with the tool slipping and stripping the nut, but it's still going take some effort to get it moving. I have heard that putting on the wrench and tapping it with a hammer can break up some surface rust that might cause a bind. Mine was a lot of grunting and groaning, but a few good pushes and yanks got it moving. After a bunch of tedious turning, I finally had the nut loose and the tube free of the header.

Now it was time to move up the engine bay. As there was no DIY article on this before we started, so we just removed stuff as we came to it and identified it as part of the EGR system. I will try to guide you through what I think would have been a simpler way to remove the system, versus how we plowed through it. Honestly, we did not know what all was part of the system until we started systematically removing things.

We thought we would be smart and take the bracket off the car with all the EGR extras attached. Well, the vacuum and electrical lines did not give you much room to pull the bracket up and see what disconnects where, so without instructions, we opted to take pieces apart that we found holding the assembly in place as we came to them. Once you read through this, you may want to try to remove the bracket with the solenoid and DPFE attached to it, since I will show you how, where, and what to disconnect to free it.

First off, disconnect the vacuum lines from the system. There will be a green line from the top of the EGR:

Trace this line to where it ends. It will be at a rubber vacuum line coupler. This dual coupler plugs into the solenoid. The green EGR vacuum line shares the coupler with a red vacuum line, which we traced back to a "Y" coupler by the front of the plenum.

For ease, disconnect the wiring weather pack that is just above it. A simple push in of the tab and pull the weather pack off:

(The spool of electrical wiring you see is from the NO2 system we were concurrently installing.)

Then disconnect the vacuum line coupler from the unit. Now you can get these pulled away from where you are working. We will deal with them later in our project:


Zippy's Resident Milf
5,592 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
We have removed the weather pack and vacuum lines from the solenoid. With this part out of the way, let's remove the EGR solenoid. There are two bolts on either side of the solenoid trunk. The driver's side is a 8mm nut and a 7mm bolt.

The passenger side is a 8mm nut only, as the stud is part of the bracket. Remove these nuts and bolt on the solenoid and be careful not to drop the nuts into the engine bay.

With the fasteners removed, you can now remove the solenoid.

While removing the solenoid, I'm sure you noticed the driver side bolt/nut runs through another sensor... this is the Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE).

The DPFE has a pair of vacuum ports with two hoses that connect two ports on the EGR tube, we will tackle this one now. With the driver's side of the DPFE already free, you will need to remove the remaining 8 mm nut on the passenger side. Again, be careful not to drop the nut.

Once the fastening hardware has been removed, you can move the unit up into view and remove the vacuum lines. They are tight, but will slide off with a little effort. It works better if you use a combination of pushing, pulling and twisting/turning to work them off versus just trying to pull them. It works a bit like the Chinese finger hand cuffs if you just pull. If you don't care about ever reinstalling these parts, then you can just cut the rubber hose.

Now disconnect this wiring weather pack. Same deal, push in the tab and remove the weather pack.

Once the electrical connection is free, you can put this unit to the side.

Now you still have the bracket to deal with. It might be easier to remove it before the DPFE due to the vacuum lines going to the EGR tube, but that is up to you. The bracket is sitting across the EGR tube and it is held down by two bolts with a 10mm head and can be removed quite easy.

* NOTE * We are installing another No2 kit, so please ignore the solenoids sitting all in the way.

Bolt 1, passenger side....

BOLT 2 (driver's side right by the EGR tube)....

Friend's car without the NO2, passenger side bolt just below the cabling..

Driver side under the solenoid wiring..

Here are the two bolts holding down the bracket. I found it easier to use an extension on my socket wrench to get to the bolts.

BOLT 1 (passenger side)..

BOLT 2 (drivers side right by the EGR tube)...

Once these are out, the bracket can be easily removed.


Zippy's Resident Milf
5,592 Posts
Now that you have everything clear of the EGR tube, let's go ahead and remove the EGR

Some will say ok, first remove the tube from of the EGR. Well you can, and there is nothing wrong with doing doing so, but if you have a driver with limited time, you can do the following. If you start at the top and not unhook the manifold end, you can simply cap the tube at the top and finish later. To do this, you need to unbolt the tube from the EGR BEFORE you loosen/remove the bolts from the EGR! We opted to not give ourselves another headache, so we left the EGR tube intact at the top end.

There are two bolts holding the EGR to the plenum. The one to the front (nose of car) is a simple straight forward bolt, while the one on the back (firewall side) is a stud of some kind. It did not have anything attached to it, so I don't know why the stud was used by Ford.

Note: I removed it with the plenum swap and went to a normal bolt. Regardless, you will need to remove these two bolts to get the EGR free. The EGR bolt is 10mm and the stud is 8mm.

With the EGR and tube unbolted, now comes the most frustrating part, because you can't see behind the engine. Ours was harder because I was trying not to scratch the polished cap on the EGR, or ding/scratch the BBK plenum.

We had success when I got under the car and guided the manifold end around objects, while a helper guided things from above. You can see in the pics from under the car how the end is bent in a way that keeps on catching on engine edges.

It surprised us and suddenly slipped out easily. I can't even tell you which way to twist and turn, just work with it patiently.

As we are pulling the EGR tube out, you can see where the DPFE vacuum lines connect to the EGR tube. We reassembled the DPFE just so you can see how it was set up in the car.

With the tube out of the way, it was time to cap the header. I got my brass cap, which needed a 1 inch wrench to install it.

I thought about a socket, but the clearance is not there for it. Start it with your hand to be sure you don’t strip the threads and should start very easy. Then it's on to the tedious wrench flip procedure previously used to remove it. Make sure you get it tight to avoid any leaks.

With the hard part done, I came back to the top end to install the EGR block off plate.

I had a new gasket from and earlier BBK plenum installation that we saved specifically for this project.

Our allen head bolts...

I carefully slipped the bolt through the plate/gasket and threaded into place, but did not fully tighten.

I waited until I had both bolts in place and ran them in evenly.

A few more views...


Zippy's Resident Milf
5,592 Posts

Now it's time to reroute the vacuum lines and tuck away the wiring. Ford must have had fun running these bad boys around the engine and they could not put the vacuum port on the back side of the plenum is beyond me. It would have made things so much cleaner. First, take the wire loom off all the vacuum lines so you can clearly see the route. You want to draw out a diagram of where everything is so you can get back to stock if you get confused during your reroute. Here is our “stock vacuum line drawing”..

Sadly, I did not get pictures of the wire looms off our car. I will attempt to explain the changes we made as clear as possible. I have some pictures from our plenum swap that will be illuminating. I will use these pictures later with lines marked on them to further illuminate routes.


In order to reroute the vacuum lines cleanly, I decided to remove and swap them around with doing any cutting. If you want to do the same, when it’s time to strip the lines of their rubber ends, refer to this method.

At the end of each plastic vacuum line is a ridge/hump designed to prevent it from accidentally backing out of the rubber coupler.

All it takes to get the line out is to slip one jaw of a need nose pliers in between the line and rubber coupler. You move the jaw around the circumference of the vacuum line. This will slightly stretch the rubber coupler for a short time, so you can slip the line out. All the plastic vacuum lines can be removed this way regardless of the rubber coupler in which they are housed.

Then with gentle twisting and wiggling, it will slip out intact. Too much and it will snap, as you can see one of ours did.

Don't worry, if push comes to shove the ridge on the end is just a precaution is not required. If you break the line you can stick the needle nose on either side of the broken line still in the coupler and remove the short broken piece. If it's broken off very close to the rubber coupler, then put one of the pliers' jaw in the end of the broken line and one in-between the line and rubber coupler and then pull. With the shorter broken piece out of the way, you just can slip the remaining long end of the broken piece back in the coupler.

Zippy's Resident Milf
5,592 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited by Moderator)

Ok, so now you have a stock route diagram and I have shown you how to remove the vacuum lines from the rubber couplers, so let’s proceed to the rerouting. I found a way to simplify the vacuum lines without cutting and capping them, but first let’s trace out the lines we are going to modify.

So with the EGR valve & solenoid removed, we have to contend with the vacuum lines that were left behind. If you remember earlier, we disconnected them and simply moved them to the side while we removed all the hardware. Well the green “EGR” vacuum line is now disconnected at both ends, so there is no need to trace it. That leaves us picking up at the red “EGR solenoid” vacuum line that shares the black coupler that was once plugged into the EGR solenoid. We follow this line around to the front of the engine. I have traced its route (purple drawn line) in these pictures:

Here is a close up shot of the solenoid vacuum line (in wire loom still to help distinguish it.)

You can see that the line comes to one leg of a “Y” coupler (purple arrow). The other leg of this “Y” coupler (yellow arrow) goes up to a coupler in the plenum.

The “Y” coupler serves as a split to provide vacuum to the solenoid. With no solenoid, we don’t need this split to supply vacuum to the line anymore. So this solenoid line (purple) can be removed from the “Y” coupler as I detailed earlier. Another option is to simply cap it and leave the rest of the vacuum system alone or even do what I did and streamline the vacuum system... the choice is yours.

Instead of just capping the now unused vacuum solenoid line (purple drawn) or just removing it from the leg of the "Y", I took things one step further. What I did was leave the line (purple drawn) in the "Y" and focused on removing the now unneeded couplers as well. I removed the short line (yellow) from the plenum coupler. I then removed the line (orange drawn line) from the base of the "Y" coupler. Now if I wanted, I could simply plug the now freed orange drawn line into the plenum coupler and be done.

So, if I was the average person I would be done now, but that's not me. I decided I wanted to shorten this line, (orange drawn line) before I plugged into the plenum. I wanted it to run tucked under the plenum instead of running out past the fuel rail and out to the valve cover like it did stock. Since I already knew the start of the line, I just had to find where it ended to be sure I could easily remove it and swap it out.

I traced the line back to yet another “Y” coupler. Our line feeds into the base of the “Y” and then splits off into 2 other vacuum lines. So it should be as easy as removing the stock line at the base of the "Y" and adding the shorter line in its place.

Just to be sure I would not screw up anything by swapping to a shorter line, I traced out the lines that the "Y" coupler fed. I traced one line to the fire wall and the other goes down into the passenger side fender well corner (pink drawn line). The lines had plenty of spare length, so I would cause no harm in swapping the plenum line out for a shorter one.

I have now isolated a good coupler joint to remove and swap this line (orange drawn line). It would be easy to replace this long line between the 2 “Y” couplers. If YOU want to, you can simply cut the existing line shorter before you plug it back in the plenum coupler. I decided instead that I wanted to do it right and replace it altogether with a shorter line. Remember, I like to keep things so I can swap them back to stock if needed, so no cutting lines for me. I thought about it and even had 2 perfectly good lines available to use should I have decided to replace them. The old solenoid vacuum line was too long, but the EGR vacuum line looked to be just right. The molded curves in it actually suited my reroute anyway.

So I removed the green EGR vacuum line from its coupler and I set it to the side to be my donor.

I had previously disconnected the orange drawn line from the front of the engine via the short (yellow) line at the plenum coupler. Now, I just had to remove it from the “Y” coupler at the other end to be able to remove it from the car completely (circled).

So here are some pictures to visually explain what I have been describing…

What we have (left):

Where we are going (right). Blue is discarded..

Once you have removed the vacuum line (orange drawn line) from the "Y" coupler, you can take your old green EGR vacuum line and orient it to fit in the couplers. I found that you need to stick the straighter end in at the “ Y” in the rear most position and the more curved end will now go in the plenum coupler at the front of the engine.

The plenum coupler has another line that comes out of it and this one we will just leave as it is (red one in pic). I covered the green EGR line in wireloom.

I have marked it with a red line in the following picture. This line goes to the fuel regulator and can run its vacuum line anyway you see fit. You may leave it as it is, run it to the front, rear or even under the fuel rail.

Here is the line running to the fuel sensor on a friend's car (red out of the loom):

In the end, you will have routing like this diagram if you have simplified things as we did.

Here are a few of our after pictures of the lines…

The plenum line running to our fuel regulator:

The other plenum vacuum line, now shorter… The X-EGR vacuum line tucks things up closer to the TB, versus running down past the fuel rail.

Here it is coming out on the backside of the plenum, going in the “Y” coupler:

An overall shot...


Zippy's Resident Milf
5,592 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited by Moderator)

Since I'm a stickler for always wanting to be able to go back, I won't be cutting off my wiring, but you can do so if you wish. It would be a simple matter of being sure you isolate the harness wires and tape them off separately when you clip off the weather pack. This will avoid the chance of anything touching that shouldn't and possibly causing a short. Personally, I decided to tuck the harnesses up under the main harness that runs behind the engine. They are completely invisible unless you know they are there. As it turns out we needed the sensors in temporarily to get the car to pass emissions, even with the new tuner. So I advise… don’t cut your wiring!

To keep dirt and moisture out, I used a vacuum cap to cover the electrical connection inside the weather pack like so. I tried Home Depot to find different sizes and colors, but good luck with that, as it seems they don't carry them as they once did. Try Lowe's, Ace, Northern or even an auto parts store, maybe you can find a better color and size variety. I just got lucky I had one black one from back in the day. I'm still hunting one large enough for the DPFE electrical that does not look so stupid. At least I had ones that matched the colors of the weather packs. You could simply tape the connector opening, but tape never seems to hold up in an engine bay the way you would think, so this was my back up.

Now to add the Dust caps to the electrical contacts and tuck them away...

The solenoid weather pack..

The DPFE weather pack..

All tucked away...


Our system was already removed, but it is possible to make this modification to the system within the car, if you so choose. The first thing we had to do is get our stock EGR manifold tube.

I looked at pictures I had of it before I removed it from the car. I gauged the best location to cut the tube where I could still reach the lower half in the engine bay, but where it would not be obvious that it was there for show season.

So I grabbed my trusty dremel and cut of wheel… Yes the wheel looks a bit worn in the pic, but it will wear down after a few passes and work just fine. This uneven wear is from cleaning burs off cut edges.

I decided to cut it below the bend where it turns to run down the firewall.

I planned to leave enough straight tube on each end to connect and tighten my "heater hose" coupler down tight with hose clamps.

Here, I have cut about 99% through and the tube just twists apart...

At this point, you just wobble the two ends back and forth a few times and the two ends come apart...

Now I just need to clean up the slight unevenness and burrs on either piece...

And the best tool for the burs on the inside is a round file...


Zippy's Resident Milf
5,592 Posts

If you are going from a full EGR delete like us, there are a few things you need to do to get the car ready for the reinstall. The first thing is removing the delete plates from the EGR system. Since it's easier to get to the one in the engine, let's start there. Go ahead and remove your bolts holding your EGR delete plate on.

Be sure to be careful with your gasket, as you will need it for the EGR. OK, now you have the plenum ready to go.

The top half is ready, so now we need to remove the cap on the lower half of the system. Again, if you are working from a delete like us, your EGR tube is out of the car and you need to install it. First things first... get the front of the car up safely on jack stands at the frame rails.

Now that the car is raised up and secured, you can safely get underneath it to begin working. If you are starting from an EGR delete like we are, you need to remove the block off cap from the driver side header/exhaust manifold. We needed a 1 inch wrench to remove our cap. I loosened the cap with the wrench and was able to take it the rest of the way off with my hand. Got a taste of what it would be like to be a contortionist in the process.

It's hard to see, but that is the wrench in the cap on this picture...


With the cap now removed, we are on to installing the lower half of the modified EGR tube.

With the bulky bend gone, it makes for a relatively painless EGR tube install. You have to first think about the orientation of the tube. For once it has been installed, there is no turning it around if you face the exhaust coupler the wrong way. Sort out your orientation, as the exhaust coupler needs to be facing the passenger side, with the DPFE tubes on the drivers side. I found the best spot was to slip the pipe between the bend and the O2 sensor..

You will have to be careful of the DPFE tubes catching on things as well and the end of the EGR tube. I had a helper on the top side watching out for me and directing the ends. It mostly takes a lot of wiggling and a bit of probing and pulling back to get it just so.

Once you get the tube high enough to line up with the Header/exhaust manifold bung, you might have to wiggle it about to get it to angle right between the engine and the firewall.

The tube actually angles slightly from driver toward the passenger side. Again, a helper can help direct things from above.

You are going to need to get your hand up to the EGR coupler and get the threads started on the exhaust bung. If you were close to spot on like we were, you should have no trouble getting the threads to start.

Again, a bit of wiggling of the part might be in order to get the threads to start easily. I was able to fully hand tighten mine close to fully installed. There was no resistance at all from my threads. You need to back off if you feel any resistance and check the orientation of your tube. You should not feel any resistance from the threads. You do not want to force the parts and strip them! Once fully hand tightened, you need to move to the top of the car. DO NOT TIGHTEN WITH A WRENCH YET! We will still need this lower half to move about so we can line up the two halves of the tubes.

Zippy's Resident Milf
5,592 Posts

So as you move back to the top of the car, you should see the lower half of your EGR tube peeking up behind the engine....

We need to now get the top half of the EGR tube ready to install. I found that a 5/8" heater hose is the perfect fit to slip over the EGR tube. So I cut about a 2 inch piece to use as my coupler.

I fitted the coupler on the top half of my EGR tube and tightened my hose clamp. I figured having it preinstalled on the part should make it easier to line everything up. I then added my lower hose clamp and lightly tightened it onto the coupler. I did not want it falling off while I was installing everything, but I did not want it so tight as to restrict the tube from slipping in. But once I got things on I realized that the clamp can just be slipped on the lower tube... the DPFE lines will hold the clamp in an accessible area.

Now I got my stock gasket for my EGR ready and set to the side.

I then started to install the top half. I still had my EGR attached to my EGR tube, so I installed them as a full unit.

Now, as we already removed our electrical bracket with our EGR delete, the top half of the tube going in won't be too bad. We had our NO2 system in the way, so ours got a bit dicey, but stock should be no problem. Of course, things never quite line up perfectly, so you will have to line up your tube ends..

Since we left the lower tube slightly loose on the manifold/header, you should be able to move it about to line up with the coupler. Then just slip the coupler down and over the lower tube end. You will get a bit of resistance, but it will go. The hose clamp can slip down on the lower tube to make things easier... the DPFE tubes will hold the clamp from falling down too far.

It might need to shift about a bit more, so don't tighten the clamp down on the lower half just yet. Now, shift your attention back on the EGR. Carefully slip the EGR gasket in place and start your front-most bolt first, we used our pretty delete plate bolts and ran just the first in a few threads. Now you need to start on the other side. This should help with getting them to run in cleanly without stripping.

Once they are both in place and tightened up…

You can move to the final tightening of the hose clamps on your coupler...

The EGR tube in place..


Zippy's Resident Milf
5,592 Posts
On to the electrical and vacuum lines...

I started with the easy one... the DPFE. I plugged in the car's DPFE electrical harness (grey weather pack) and reattached the EGR tube hoses. One vacuum line is larger then the other and corresponds to the larger port on the DPFE.

Now to the difficult one… to make the EGR solenoid work, there are two lines that must go to the EGR solenoid. One vacuum line from the plenum, the other from the EGR. As mentioned earlier, I rerouted my vacuum lines cleaner then stock. Well I wanted to keep it that way, so I had to add my own provision to supply vacuum to the lower port of the EGR solenoid. I decided to run the "Plenum Solenoid line" that was once up front, in the back instead. Here was the point I was going to add my own "T". I thought about the area in which the stock lines had "Y"ed at the rear side of the plenum.

I noticed an oddly placed plastic coupler right in the middle of the line. I removed this factory straight plastic coupler that once sat between the two rubber couplers.

And replaced it with a t-fitting...

This allowed me to still tap off an existing vacuum line, but put it in a place that would be easier to disguise/mask at removal time, with a simple vacuum cap...

Now I had to get back my EGR solenoid. I reattached the stock rubber coupler that came attached to the trunk of the solenoid and I plugged in my car's solenoid electrical harness (black weather pack)...

I then added the plastic coupler I just replaced with a "T" fitting to the lower port on the solenoid vacuum coupler. This is for your newly added plenum vacuum line.

We are not going for pretty, so I haphazardly ran a small rubber line between this plastic coupler and the "T" fitting I had just added..

Since I had reallocated my stock EGR line, I just added back a spare plastic line I had between the EGR and the upper EGR port on the solenoid.

So for all intents and purposes, the EGR is now fully functional again. I was not going to fool with adding any brackets and such. Again this was a temporary set up. So... its not pretty, but it will function properly and pass a visual inspection to boot.

The final thing was to now tighten the lower bung on the exhaust manifold/header. Now that everything is solidly positioned in place, it can be fully tightened. I was only able to get a half a turn and it was fully tight.


Zippy's Resident Milf
5,592 Posts

I started by removing my EGR solenoid and removed the vacuum line from the EGR.

Next, I had to remove the other vacuum line at the "T" installed earlier. I had to push the rubber line off the "T".

With the vacuum lines removed, all that was left was the wiring. I disconnected the weather pack from the solenoid... Push in the tab and remove the wiring harness.

Now you can remove the whole unit...

Now the DPFE.... I first disconnected the wiring harness by pushing in the tab and slip off the weather pack connector.

I slipped the vacuum lines off first... you have to push the line down and off the DPFE.

Now to cap the open DPFE vacuum lines off on the lower EGR tube...

For this trick, I wanted to make them feed into one another and form a loop basically. I found a plastic vacuum coupler that closely matched the diameter of the two ends of the DPFE. The vacuum line came out of a vacuum coupler kit I had gotten from either Advance or Autozone.

Small end..

Large end...

Now, it was just a mater of slipping the corresponding end into the appropriately size vacuum line. Best of all it was easily reversible to use again next year.


Zippy's Resident Milf
5,592 Posts
I then moved on to removing the EGR, by carefully removing the bolts..

I had to be careful when slipping out the EGR gasket, as I would need it again next year.

It was now time to move on to detaching the coupler I had made...

I disconnected the clamp on the lower portion of the EGR tube coupler.

I let it slip down to rest on the DPFE port.

I then had to slip a prying tool in to help coax the coupler to slip up and off the lower tube.

It did the trick and the coupler was free, although it took some effort. The coupler really liked its new home.

The EGR and upper EGR hose off the car...

Now to put our plate back on the plenum... I got my bolts, gasket, and plate...

I carefully slipped the bolt through the plate and gasket to run in the most of the threads, but did not fully tighten.

I waited until I had both bolts in place and ran them in even and tight.


Zippy's Resident Milf
5,592 Posts
Now to cap the lower EGR tube... I used a rubber cap I found in the garage...

I slipped it into place, but was a bit on the larger side, so will find another one down the road. A 5/8" rubber cap should work, as I used a 5/8" heater hose for the coupler and it was a perfect fit.

I then slipped the hose clamp back up and tightened it down to seal the end...

Now to add the dust caps to the electrical contacts and tuck them away...

The solenoid...

The DPFE...

All tucked away...

Ok, the system is fully removed and we are all capped up. Here are a few pics at the show the next day to show that everything is hidden from sight with the quick removal conversion system...

A closer shot of the capped EGR tube..

The capped vacuum line "T"..

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