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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 99 mustang gt and i want to remove my oil pan to inspect the crankshaft and connecting rod bearings. From the looks of it i think im going to have to remove the steering rack to get to the bolts on the pan. Does anyone know if there's anything else that i might have to do to get to the oil pan and remove it.
 

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it's areal bear because usually you have to remove the motor mounts and lift the engine or drop the whole effing K-member. I wouldn't suggest this unless you're good with tools and don't mind getting into a ton of ****. Bad thing is because of that it's expensive to hae someone else do it ($400 - $500 around here). Good luck if you go for it.
 

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I jacked my engine up and loosened the K... I was able to just pry and the K down enough to get the oil pan low enough to clear the transmission and slide it out from the back...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you for replying everyone. i shall lift it on the hoist and take another look. hey angry vanilla how long did the kmember take to loosen and bring down? and was it difficult to do?
 

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If I remember its only like 6 bolts holding the K member on but theres more **** besides just those bolts
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ahhh i see mayosailor27 seems like this might be a real challenge. Im going to have to decide if removing the pan is really worth the effort. I have a rattling sound coming from the engine as a result of running it with low oil when its revved to around 2500 rpm. Ive talked to several mechanics and have been told to check the connecting rod bearings first and then maybe the lifters. To get to the bearings i have to remove the oilpan. And after all that it may not even be the bearings. :eek:
 

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I just went thru the research on this myself.

Here's your choices:

1. Drop the K-member, the most work involved.

2. Remove the motor mount nuts from the K member. Jack the engine up about 1-2 inches. Loosen but DON't Remove the k member bolts so it drops down about an 1 1/2 inches. Now you can drop the oil pan enough to remove it. It's a lot of work just to inspect it, I was doing the same but to see what rods were installed prior to me buying the car. I was planning on replacing the OEM oil pan with a 7 quart pan, but you have to do some grinding on the OEM K member to get to fit.
 

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Does the noise increase with engine rpm? is it a ticking or an actual knocking sound? I would check everything I could BEFORE pulling the pan, either buy a cheap mechanics stethoscope ($8 at harbor freight) or use the old school screwdriver method to see where the noise is coming from....Just my $.02
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Alright everyone, just dropped the oilpan and found the connecting rod causing all the noise. Im going to replace all the bearings and hopefully everything goes as planned. I did exactly what you guys said and lowered the kmember and raised the motor a couple inches and bamm oils pans out. I shall report back in a couple days with the outcome...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
All of the old connecting rod bearings have been replaced and g-string sally rattles no more. Every bearing had been destroyed and they were literally spinning in the journal. I used crocus cloth to buff the crank to a mirror shine, slapped on new bearings and pan and she runs like a charm.
 
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