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Discussion Starter #1
As my budget changes, so does my ideas and plans. My wife and I are moving, so alot of my tax money is getting spent on the move (Im the only one making the financial sacrifice, but ohwell). So i came across a very interesting idea, that would be semi-cheap... and fun to tackle. My first 91 GT i had a few years ago was a pretty fun car. When i first bought it, i had it running 13.40s @ 102mph with almost NOTHING done to the engine, except long tubes, o/r x-pipe and aftercat. It even had the bone stock plastic intake tube and air box, with a K&N air filter. There was absolutely nothing else done to the engine. It had all the AC components, and accessories including smog. Stock clutch, with flywheel, stock T5 with aluminum driveshaft. I focused heavily on the weak points of the car - Rear/front suspension and chassis. With gears (3.73s) slicks and skinnies, it was a solid 13 second machine, with a STOCK driveline and full interior. It took me awhile to get the car down in the 13s.. but i got there.

So im thinking, with more money now than i had back in those days, and even more knowledge.. i want to try and pick up where i left off with that car. I want to find a bone stock 5.0L 5spd foxbody GT. Spend money where it counts suspension and chassis wise, along with as much weight reduction as possible. Im talking about replacing, or trashing whatever i can to replace or lose weight. My plan for power is simple. No Nitrous, or forced induction. Keep the bone stock 5.0L shortblock (even the stock bore). The only part of the shortblock that i want to change is the cam (to solid roller). Im going to take it a step further and ditch the EFI for a carb setup.

So, basically.. changing the heads, swapping to a solid roller cam (to be able to make more power with more RPM).. and swapping to carb for less weight and simplicity. Ditching the AC and PS, smog, all the lines.. EVAP, condensor, heater junk, changing to an electric water pump. Building the T5, and using a good clutch with aluminum flywheel, aluminum driveshaft. I mean, even stuff like changing the stock oil pan for an aftermarket one, with a good windage tray to help keep windage under control.. reducing as much rotating mass and weight as possible. Theres obviously a large list of areas i need to adress.. but this is still in the idea state. I'll be making a list of what i'll be doing, and post it up in a few days.

My goal is to go as fast as possible, with the stock displacement, stock piston, rods and crank 5.0L shortblock. No strokers, no Nitrous or FI... straight N/A, with a stock 302ci displacement. Think im crazy?
 

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absolutely not, i really like seeing cars do more with less, i have more respect for a lightly modded motor car running low 12s then for an aluminum headed stroked blower car running 10s
 

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Thats basically the route I am going with the 90 that I have.I had an 84 LX coupe a few years ago to dip into the 12's with only minor mods.
 

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nitrous = cheap hp and set up properly it won't hurt the motor it can be hidden to still have the street sleeper look
but thats not the point of the car
 

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Sounds good man. You should start a thread strictly for the car, and update it in real time.. if you do, be sure to keep a running tab of the cost. It should be a very informative project.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
nitrous = cheap hp and set up properly it won't hurt the motor it can be hidden to still have the street sleeper look
That definately defeats the purpose of the car. A few years ago, there was an article in MM&FF with an 84-85 mustang GT... It had a naturally aspirated 302 (carb'ed) with a 5 speed, and race suspension. They got that car to run high 10s with just 400bhp. It was suppose to be a budget bracket machine, and even ran on pump gas (so they said). Im not sure how much of the specs were actually legit, but my plan is to keep the car as streetable as physically possible. No Nitrous or FI. Just good ole natural aspiration and an honest 302 cubic inches.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Im going to make this my official thread, as ive decided with the budget i now have, this is the most realistic project i can put together this year. I still want to build a big inch windsor, but that will have to wait until next year... atleast. Moving my family is more important right now.


So, heres the list of what im going to do. I might add, or subtract from it in the future. Im going to keep the budget realistic, and take notes of every penny i spend. Even though i cant post pics as of yet because of this computer, i'll be taking pictures every step of the way, and will post them once i purchase a new computer.

Car: 87-89 GT or LX Coupe 5.0/5spd. Completely stock, right down to the air silencer (if i can find one like that). If not, as close to stock as possible.

Suspension: I want to cut as much weight in suspension as possible. Changing to a lighter tubular K-member, a-arms, coil-overs, spindles and brakes. Im going to keep the 8.8 that comes with the car, but its going to go through ONLY the neccessary modifications. A good set of upper, and lower control arms with good bushings, getting rid of the quads. A good set of springs and shocks (or coil-overs... dont know yet). A good anti-roll bar (probably a Chris Alston peice, because it works with tail pipes). Reinforce the torque boxes, and employ a good set of weld-in-through-the-floor subframe connectors that tie into the T-boxes. I dont have weight loss numbers yet, but i'll weigh everything so you guys can see how much weight the car is losing. If i can get any of this stuff used, in good condition.. i will.

Weight reduction: Now obviously like i said, changing out the suspension for lighter counterparts is going to make a big difference. Im going to change the stock seats out, for light weight race style. All the sound deadner will go as well. Im keeping the interior entact, because im going to drive the car on the street, and i want a conventional street theme, but anything and everything that doesnt need to be there is trash. All the heater, and AC stuff is going. No spare tire, no carpet in the trunk, all the matting... fog light brakets (if its a GT) bumper support brackets and assorted hardware is trash. Switching to a fiberglass cowl hood. No stereo equipment (atleast when going to the track). The lightest wheels i can get my hands on, and using the smallest brakes i can get the car to stop with. Theres probably more, but i'll get to it once i get a car.

Engine & Driveline: So, the fun part. If it checks out good, and ive got good ring seal (cylinder pressure), and theres no major leaks or visable problems, im keeping the bone stock shortblock and rotating assembly. This includes, the stock pistons, rings, rods, crank, bearings, fasteners (with the exception of a using a girdle and new fasteners..maybe) and even the stock freeze plugs and oil plugs. The only upgrades im allowing for myself is strictly bolt-on parts.. with the small exception that a camshaft isnt a "bolt-on" peice, its more of an installation. Once again, AC is going, power steering is going in favor of manual (flaming river rack... lighter than stock), smog is going, and even the crank driven water pump is going in favor of an electric peice. So, the only crank driven front accessories will be an alternator.

All the EFI is being chucked in favor of a carburetor combo. This saves weight, and has the potential to make more power per dollar spent than EFI. The stock heads will go, in favor of a GOOD set of aluminum heads and matched valve train. The stock cam and lifters will go, and am changing to a solid roller. It wont be an off the shelf grind, but custom tailored to the rest of the combo. A good igntion system, nothing super costy. Im keeping the stock fuel tank, and just changing the pump to a 190-255lph.. and possibly increasing the feed line size to -8an, and -6an return. A good set of long tube headers, off-road x pipe... havent decided if i should use a complete aftercat yet. An aftermarket oil pan (aluminum).. same oil capacity, with a windage tray to keep windage under control. I also think i might use a stud girdle too, just to help promote better integrity of the mains (i plan to spin this motor high- 7000rpms..+?)

Aluminum flywheel, with a lightweight clutch disc (no marcel spring, multi puck) and pressure plate. A G-force prepped T5 (proshift capable). Aluminum driveshaft... and im not sure which gears i'll be using... i'll know once i get a better idea of the overall weight, cam and valvetrain and tires i'll be using.

Dont shoot me, but i think i can pull off high 10s with enough R&D and tuning. I was going 13.40s with a bone stock 5.0L at 3100ft. Im fairly confident i can pull atleast 2.5 seconds off of that, especially running at sea level, with more power than a stock 5.0L produces by itself. And the beauty of this project is... its all bolt-ons! Any ideas of what else i could do? What i shouldnt do? Sorry for this being so long... im done with writing long posts for now. :sorry
 

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I think your goal is realistic.. but I think that setup is going to cost some serious dough (maybe my version and your version of cheap are two different figures:D). I would sell every part that I took off the car in an effort to recoup some of the money spent.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Absolutely, everything i take off is for sale. And whatever i can find for a good deal, or used... i will. I dont want to spend more than i have too. I honestly dont think it will be expensive... surely not as expensive as building a stroker, or swaping a windsor in. Including the price of the car... im confident i can do this for less than 10k.
 

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high 7000 rpm? unless u get that thing balenced extreamly well it wont hold to high 7000 rpm's good luck though i hope it all goes together nicely
 

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Discussion Starter #14
high 7000 rpm? unless u get that thing balenced extreamly well it wont hold to high 7000 rpm's good luck though i hope it all goes together nicely
Im not talking about the high side of 7000rpms, i mean up too 7000rpms... maybe a little more, depends on induction and valvetrain. Im not even sure i want to spin it that high in the first place, but i cant make the power i want unless i do. Im just replacing the harmonic balancer and flywheel.. thats it. Ive spun stock 5.0L shortblocks to 6300-6400rpms.. i dont see why 7000 would be a problem with the right induction and valvetrain to take advantage of it.
 

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i'd rather you try it than me
 
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