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a lot of rear end shaking on my cobra..
Hey guys.. i got that 01' cobra a couple weeks ago and i did a burn out but i stopped b/c i had a **** load of shakin goin on in my rear.. any of you guys have that problem and what was it?
 

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just wheel hop.

if it doesnt burn out smove, and starts to hop STOP IMMEDIATLY, you will break something, most likely a halfshaft, but you can also break the driveshaft, pumpkin, or transmission.

if it hops stop.
 

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Try it in second gear, also look into shocks, FLSFC's and delrin/urathane bushings
 

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Try it in second gear, also look into shocks, FLSFC's and delrin/urathane bushings
+1 on second, but most of the time it still hops though.

but get a set of drag radials, FLSFC's, and most of the time the hop is gone.

tires are the single best thing to eliminate hop
 

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so will a solid axle swap

or better springs
 

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just wheel hop.

if it doesnt burn out smove, and starts to hop STOP IMMEDIATLY, you will break something, most likely a halfshaft, but you can also break the driveshaft, pumpkin, or transmission.

if it hops stop.
plus one. and make sure u never try to power through the wheel hop and stay heavy on the gas. if u feel the rear end jerking again, just let off the gas a lil bit and then get back on it(but dont stomp the throttle reallly quick when u get back on it). youre gonna have to practice real good throttle control with these cobra IRS's, especially from a dead stop. its gonna suck at first but it will be easy when u get some practice launching your car hard from a dig.

oh, and get some launching practice done before u challenge any ls1's from a dig lol:yes
 

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so will a solid axle swap

or better springs
a solid can hop too.

the best mod to help wheel hop is tires, not springs. his cobra is going to have a decent rate, so a set of springs isnt going to do much.
 

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oh, this is the safest way i know of to do a burnout without getting wheel hop. put half of your right foot on the brake and the other half on the throttle. then alternate the pressure and the angle of your right foot so that u can apply moderate brake and moderate throttle and then slowly start letting the clutch out and give it a lil bit more gas while still on brake. after tires start spinning, take left foot off clutch, put it on brake, then quickly slide right foot completely onto throttle and continue with the smoke show:cool:. thats the way i do burnouts now. something u can try maybe.

or if u want, after the rear tires start spinning, u can keep on doing the half foot on brake-half foot on gas thing but then you would keep yourself at risk of your right foot slipping off the throttle longer.
 

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so will a solid axle swap

or better springs
i think the main reason some people do a solid rear swap on the irs cobras is because they wanna do 1/4 m. racing mostly and a solid can be built to put down the power better and cheaper.
 

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i think the main reason some people do a solid rear swap on the irs cobras is because they wanna do 1/4 m. racing mostly and a solid can be built to put down the power better and cheaper.
i think more do it for the 150LBS savings, and its cheaper to strengthen than a IRS.
 

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tires did make a HUGE difference in wheel hop in my gt...
do dr's really help that much with wheel hop??? i guess ill get a set on the back of the cobra as soon as i move to my next base and get my daily driver smogged and registered.
 

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i think more do it for the 150LBS savings, and its cheaper to strengthen than a IRS.
oh yeah, i forgot about the lighter weight of a solid rear.
 

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do dr's really help that much with wheel hop??? i guess ill get a set on the back of the cobra as soon as i move to my next base and get my daily driver smogged and registered.
HUGE difference with DR's, especially if you still have the POS F1's.
 

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Billy Weston
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i think more do it for the 150LBS savings, and its cheaper to strengthen than a IRS.
+1..... you can also make a straight axle out handle an IRS. :)
 

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+1..... you can also make a straight axle out handle an IRS. :)
to an extent.

in the solid axle the only thing you can adjust is ride height.

in the IRS you can adjust camber, and toe to get the most out of your tires.

if you put the $$ into a IRS it will outhandle a stick axle every time.
 

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to an extent.

in the solid axle the only thing you can adjust is ride height.

in the IRS you can adjust camber, and toe to get the most out of your tires.

if you put the $$ into a IRS it will outhandle a stick axle every time.
You can adjust toe and camber with a stick. But making those adjustments are over most peoples heads. It requires tweaking the axle tubes.
 

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You can adjust toe and camber with a stick. But making those adjustments are over most peoples heads. It requires tweaking the axle tubes.
then you take a chances in messing up your axles, and the tubes not being bent right.

for road course IRS > stick
 

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Billy Weston
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then you take a chances in messing up your axles, and the tubes not being bent right.

for road course IRS > stick
Its all a matter of opinion. If you are making constant adjustments to the rear then yes IRS is better. The limiting factor on these cars mostly comes from the front suspension.
 

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Its all a matter of opinion. If you are making constant adjustments to the rear then yes IRS is better. The limiting factor on these cars mostly comes from the front suspension.
you can look at it another way too, even if you set up the IRS 0 camber 0 toe like the solid, its still going to respond better to uneven surfaces and going around turns better than the stick.
 
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