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Zippy's Resident Milf
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Discussion Starter #1
Due to a drivability concern that lead us to replace our coils, we ended up with Accel coils. Yes the dreaded "YELLOW" coils. Well, it would be great if you had a yellow car, but it was clashing with the red. I wish we could have justified the price difference to go with the MSD "RED" coils instead. But the yellow accels fit in the budget, so we got them.

(We bought 8 but could only use 7 due to a stripped coil bolt insert in the lower intake manifold, but that is a project for another day).



Installed, they just stuck out like a sore thumb.



Before...



After...



Before...



After...



Before...



After...



Before...



After...



REMOVE THE COILS

Please see my previous write-up on how to remove your coils. It was too much to put in this write-up.



PREP THE COILS

The first thing is to peel off the stickers...



Now comes scuffing the surface that you will be painting. For plastics, I find red scotchbrite to be the best medium to provide an adequate sanding job, without marring the surface so bad that it will show through once painted. You only need a small piece.





The basic idea is to knock the surface shine off the area you plan to paint. In our case, just the yellow. This should provide enough surface disturbance to provide a tie between the paint and plastic's surface. It is normally recommended to use a tie coat between a plastic surface and the paint, like bulldog adhesion promoter. I have had too many issues with the adhesion promoters not going on smooth and causing a texture that passes through to the final paint finish, so I don't use it. On a non-electrical piece, I would sand with a wet scotchbrite and dish soap, but coils are WAY TOO sensitive to introduce moisture, so I advise to dry sand only.



In these shots, you can see how I have sanded the shiny finish to a satin like dull finish.





Now you need to tape the part so that anything you don't want to paint is covered. In our case, the only thing being painted is the yellow. I chose to remove the rubber boots, since the tape would not stick to them.





The hard part was getting the circle covered on the top. I was not convinced the paint would stick to the black rubber top, so I was not going to paint it. Plus, the black was a nice contrast. Once we swap out the stuck coil, I might just leave them topless... But I found a washer that was just the right size and used it to make a template to cut the tape out to cover the black top near perfectly. To be sure the tape stuck a tight as possible, I opted against the blue tape and went with the standard masking tape. I just got a section of wide tape, and placed it on my work surface. I then set the washer down on the tape and traced around it with a razor blade.





From this the perfect mask was born...





All of them taped up...





Now it was a matter of wiping them down. Because they are electrical, I opted away from any dish soap use and stuck with the prep all. A quick wipe was all it took. You are not wetting them down, just wiping the surface. Again, these are sensitive to moisture, so we want to keep it to a minimum.



 

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Zippy's Resident Milf
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5,592 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
PAINT THE COILS

I wiped off any lint that remained with my gloved hands..



To paint the coils, I figured there was no sense in basing them with silver, as the yellow was already bright enough. I did not want to put any more paint on there than I had to. I then proceeded to paint them Duplicolor metal specks red.









All done with the red...



One down.. now 6 to go!



To protect the coil spring, I added a cover after the first one... My glove painting finger was causing the paint to spit. The glove was a bit loose in the fingers and it formed a fold that got in the way of the spray nozzle. The paint would actually spit and blow drips of paint of my gloved finger tip. All ended well and I tore the problem finger off and used it to cover the spring on all the coils from that one forward...





Once based in red, I had to let them sit and flash before they could be cleared in our Duplicolor Clear Top Coat.





After the red flashed, I started to clear one of them and noticed how dramatic the finish and color change was. Here are some pictures just to show you how different the part turns out with clear versus no clear. They are not as dramatic on film as they were in person. The base has a more burgandy look, and the clear makes it look more like candy apple red. But either way you can see the metallic pop.

The one on the left is the cleared coil.





Funny thing is the one that is uncleared matches the paint better...but it just does not have the shine I want.



I then cleared the rest...





Here is an example of just how slick even rattle can paint can get...the waves are in the plastic.





I left them to dry overnight and an extra day for good measure. We had a rain storm come through and I wanted to be sure they were fully dry before I untaped them.
 

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Zippy's Resident Milf
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5,592 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
ASSEMBLE THE COILS

With all the tape off, it was time to slip the boots back on... they just slip back over the spring...





You seat them with the tab on the coil meeting the tab on the boot. The rib on the coil bottom that sits in the neck of the boot will hold the boot in place.





The spring sits just flush with the end of the rubber boot.



Fully assembled...





Everyone assembled... with and without the flash....





Now to added the top covers so they would match the stuck coil. The factory top is nowhere as nice looking as these were. It was a dull milky looking black with numbering across it. Oh but of course the stuck coil was the one in the front most position on the driver's side. The most predominate one, that could not go uncovered. I had originally made these covers for the factory coils. I removed them and reused them for the new coils. They were made very similarly to the coil top tape covers. Same washer was used as a template. I traced around it on a piece of brushed aluminum sheeting and cut it out with a dremel.





Here is the whole gang in the satin covers...

 

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Zippy's Resident Milf
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5,592 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
PREP THE STUCK COIL

Now I mentioned that we only used 7 Accel coils... well, we had to match the 8th one still in the bay. This was a PAIN! I do not recommend this at all. It's too difficult to get the paint coverage you need, while maintaining a good, even, light surface finish. What we did came out acceptable and most could probably not tell, but I'm still not 100% happy.

As will the other coils, I scuffed the surface with the scotchbrite, then I wiped the part down with the Prep All. Then I taped it up as best I could. OMG that was a PAIN! The point was to be sure I could get NO overspray on the engine at all. I was stuffing paper towels in the nooks and crannies I could not reach to tape.







Then it was another wipe down to be sure that I did not leave any fingerprints behind that will affect paint adhesion. Then I draped off the rest of the car, just to be sure.









PAINT THE STUCK COIL

Now it was time to paint with our base coats. Due to the fact that the stock coil is black, I chose to base it in silver to bring the base close to the yellow of the other coils. This would be sure to bring the red on the all the coils to the same level. No you don't have to use yellow. This is not a car panel we are painting.



Red... remember the light coats I said I wanted.... well, in trying to reach the back side I got way more paint on the top and front then I wanted to. I knew it would lead to paint leaching under the edge and paint sticking to the tape and ripping off the part.





And clear...



Now the moment of truth... the unveiling... I did do some touch up work around the bolt. If I can ever get the coil out, I plan to sand the bolt edge back clean. It came out SOOO much better than I anticipated.

Side facing the outside that you will see... (oh and the red on the wiring is dust... it wiped right off)...



The engine side of the coil that you can sort of see... This was the HARD part to spray... but it came out. Only a tiny bit of dry spray at the very front under the fuel rail. It will never be seen.



INSTALL THE 7 COILS

Now it was time to install the rest of the coils... again please see my previous write-up. You will be able to see just how careful I was about letting the coil not touch anything. I did not want the paint marring!

At the halfway point... I took another photo op...lol





Against the car.... you can see it is really only slightly off. Nothing you could tell unless they are sitting side by side like this.

 

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Zippy's Resident Milf
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5,592 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
INSTALLED

OK now the installed pics with the intake still off...







Now the intake ducting was installed.











Now some close ups...











 
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