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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Posted in the Drag Forum too but figured I should've posted here first...

I bought a BMR adjustable UCA and UCA mounting bracket, and have a set of BMR adjustable poly/spherical LCA's (tubular style) paid for and on the way. I plan on installing these next weekend with the goal to get rid of these terrible 1.9-2.1 60' times at the track. I wasn't intending on going with adjustable lowers as I already had the adjustable upper, but the price was too good to pass up so here I am plus they were the half poly, half spherical setup that I'm looking for to serve as a compromise between spherical strength and NVH-less poly units. As long as I can start cutting 1.7-1.8 or better 60' times without breaking poly inserts and not have a screaming differential sounds while driving down the highway, I'm good.

So, the plan was to install a set of BMR relo brackets at the same time (still debating on whether to weld in or not...) but now I'm wondering if I can't accomplish the same adjustments with the adjustable lower/upper arms as the brackets would? I understand the whole point of adjustable upper arms is to correct for pinion angle when lowering, etc, and that the relocation brackets adjust the arm angle when lowering OR for added traction.

I would still prefer to get the brackets and accomplish my goals that way (not to mention have just about every adjustment available to me), but do I need to spend the extra $160+ to get the brackets and then weld them in, or have I covered my bases with the adjustable lowers and can adjust pinion angle AND lower arm angle with the components I have already? Or am I totally off-kilter and am thinking about this all wrong, and I need to buy the brackets already??? I've been going through all the adjustments and angles in my head and theoretically it could work, but it's late - and it's Friday night - so I could be missing something critical (or completely obvious)...it seems like you need a post-grad degree in suspension to keep from screwing the geometry of these rear ends up to where they just don't find the groove and have a gremlin here or there, so that's why I'm asking for all of your opinions and any real-world experience with adjustable lowers.


One last thing, I'm running slicks (M/T ET Streets) at the track and am about to put 4.10s in, so the impact and abuse on the arms will only be getting worse in the future...especially if I put the nitrous kit on there very soon To make this problem go away easier, I'd love to buy a set of BMR relo brackets for a good price if anyone has some!!!
 

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Antisquat is adjustable in two ways on the S197. You can either lower the chassis side of the UCA or lower the axle side of the LCA's. Length of these arms has a small effect on %antisquat depending on the ride height of the vehicle in question but it would take large changes in control arm length to have noticeable changes in %antisquat. The adjustable part for the control arms is only length so you are really not left with the tuning ability you are thinking you will have with them.

One of the many reasons I don't recommend adjustable lower control arms is the issues associated with having two control arms not in the same arc (this causes crab walking among other things), but the other issue is how the wheel is centered in the rear wheel well. It is entirely possible to have the wheel too far forward or too far rearward and hurt all sorts of suspension geometry on these cars. I wish you luck in that endeavor! :D

What I'm saying is, get the brackets and weld them in. If the shop you are having them welded at can do axle welding, have them weld the axle tubes too with a jig to prevent the axle tubes from twisting in the housing.

EDIT: Forgot to add that changing the length of the control arms changes how quickly the rear suspension goes through pinion angle. While you will ultimately have to do some testing to figure out how much you will need to achieve 0 pinion angle under load, I should point out that the length of the control arms can make the car gain pinion angle or lose pinion angle much quicker thus requiring more static pinion angle. Generally this isn't a problem as most modern 2 piece driveshafts and most, now, 1 piece driveshafts utilize CV joints to minimize noise but those more extreme pinion angles can lead to bearing damage if not kept in check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Good points sir, that's mostly what I had thought but I didn't ever think about adjusting the uca upper location to adjust antisquat (though I think the lca brackets are the easier mod to perform and engineer). One reason I wanted to stay away from the adj lowers is the fact that you could have both slightly off from each other and inadvertently introduce stress or dog tracking to the rear axle, but I've had some friends who run them that say they have no issues with them as long as you're careful and diligent about keeping the adjustments the same. I'm pretty good about stuff like this (I'm of the notion "measure twice (or three times!) and cut once" so I'm sure I can keep them aligned, but am more worried about strength and durability over the long run while launching on them at the drag strip.

One thing to note, I'm currently stock height but am likely going to do a medium drop soon (either FRPP K springs or Steeda Ultralites, so 1-1.5" in the rear) so I likely will need the relo brackets regardless. So my real questions are: are the adj lca's strong/durable for regular drag racing? And two, if I stayed at stock height, would I have enough adjustment with adj lowers to change my antisquat/traction for launches (similar to using relo brackets on stock height vehicles to put more downforce to gain traction)? Thanks!
 

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At the Apex pulling 1.28g
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Good points sir, that's mostly what I had thought but I didn't ever think about adjusting the uca upper location to adjust antisquat (though I think the lca brackets are the easier mod to perform and engineer). One reason I wanted to stay away from the adj lowers is the fact that you could have both slightly off from each other and inadvertently introduce stress or dog tracking to the rear axle, but I've had some friends who run them that say they have no issues with them as long as you're careful and diligent about keeping the adjustments the same. I'm pretty good about stuff like this (I'm of the notion "measure twice (or three times!) and cut once" so I'm sure I can keep them aligned, but am more worried about strength and durability over the long run while launching on them at the drag strip.

One thing to note, I'm currently stock height but am likely going to do a medium drop soon (either FRPP K springs or Steeda Ultralites, so 1-1.5" in the rear) so I likely will need the relo brackets regardless. So my real questions are: are the adj lca's strong/durable for regular drag racing? And two, if I stayed at stock height, would I have enough adjustment with adj lowers to change my antisquat/traction for launches (similar to using relo brackets on stock height vehicles to put more downforce to gain traction)? Thanks!
1.) Yes, definitely. Once properly installed all of the force should be directed through the weakest area (the adjustment area) on it's strongest path which is only marginally weaker than a non adjustable unit. I have yet to hear anyone break any LCA on these cars (several Granatelli units on older SN95/Fox cars though and Grantelli is universally regarded as junk).

2.) Not really no. When I said that antisquat can be adjusted through LCA length, we are talking about extreme changes in the length of the control arms that would be extremely detrimental to your rear suspension and I doubt there is enough adjustment in the length of the control arms to change it noticeably from the driver seat. I guess I should have emphasized the "technically" part as in, the amount is small enough to write off as basically not being there.

At stock ride height I wouldn't worry about changing antisquat too much. When you lower your car though the LCA relocation brackets will come in handy, otherwise, buy them now and not worry about not having enough antisquat (you'll be fine). Unless you have a lot of drag racing experience I doubt you will have the driver mod necessary to make full use of the LCA relocation brackets anyway. Not that they don't help, it's just you are the limiting factor in the car's 1/4 mile times, not the car! :)
 

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personally I would (& did) sjip the adjustable lowers unless your drastically lowering the car & running a very tall (29" +) tire & centering it is critical.

that said, your going about things a little sideways, you can bolt every suspension component in the world on the car & it will never gat below a 1.8 60', no stock converter n/a coyote car has done it yet, the car just can't leave hard enough to get there.

the shot of nitrous will help some but your still limited because you can't safely spray on the launch because the rpms are too low, you'll end up starting to spray at about 30-40 feet out with the stock converter, 27" tires & the 4.10's.

the only way to pick up the 60' is with a converter.

I'd jeep it simple, drag racers have 2 full seasons on these cars now & pretty much all the secrets have been learned, a very basic combo is all thats nessesary on an auto car to run some very serious times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I thought I had seen some Auto cars cut quicker 60' times with the stock converter and better suspension, but overall you are probably right about keeping it simple (KISS method, anybody?!?) and just adjusting only what I must to get the result I'm looking for. I know I'm not likely to need the adj lowers but the price point was the selling point as I picked them up shipped for less than half of the price for either versions new. But they and the upper will definitely help cut down the times overall, so I'm glad I'm doing it now and can see what difference there is before jumping to the next mod. You are right though, and a converter is definitely on the short list of mods to do that with these cars...any suggestions on converters? I figure a 3200 or 3500 stall for daily driveability?

As far as the nitrous (or even going FI...another option a year or two away) again you're on point, as I wouldn't activate it until 2500 or 3000rpm so by flashing on launch it wouldn't do much for my 60' times, but overall ET and speed would be a kick in the pants. The only way to fully utilize it early on is to stall up in the power band, and that means a converter.

I'm interested to see what the suspension mods do provide, and I'm trying to test out and enjoy each mod thoroughly (moreso for my wallet and wife's sakes haha!) before adding the next one. I found the slicks cut 0.2-3 seconds off ET and before that my race tunes cut almost a full second, so I want to figure this setup out before putting more of the power adders like nitrous or blowers on. I figure I'll get just one race day in with the suspension before throwing in the 4.10s so it won't be as much TnT as I'd like, but I'm hoping to have both done before the racing season really kicks off for the spring. It still should be some decent testing but I like to get a couple visits in before moving on to another mod. We'll see...
 

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For a converter contact Circle D. They can answer any of your questions.
 

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I thought I had seen some Auto cars cut quicker 60' times with the stock converter and better suspension, but overall you are probably right about keeping it simple (KISS method, anybody?!?) and just adjusting only what I must to get the result I'm looking for. I know I'm not likely to need the adj lowers but the price point was the selling point as I picked them up shipped for less than half of the price for either versions new. But they and the upper will definitely help cut down the times overall, so I'm glad I'm doing it now and can see what difference there is before jumping to the next mod. You are right though, and a converter is definitely on the short list of mods to do that with these cars...any suggestions on converters? I figure a 3200 or 3500 stall for daily driveability?

As far as the nitrous (or even going FI...another option a year or two away) again you're on point, as I wouldn't activate it until 2500 or 3000rpm so by flashing on launch it wouldn't do much for my 60' times, but overall ET and speed would be a kick in the pants. The only way to fully utilize it early on is to stall up in the power band, and that means a converter.

I'm interested to see what the suspension mods do provide, and I'm trying to test out and enjoy each mod thoroughly (moreso for my wallet and wife's sakes haha!) before adding the next one. I found the slicks cut 0.2-3 seconds off ET and before that my race tunes cut almost a full second, so I want to figure this setup out before putting more of the power adders like nitrous or blowers on. I figure I'll get just one race day in with the suspension before throwing in the 4.10s so it won't be as much TnT as I'd like, but I'm hoping to have both done before the racing season really kicks off for the spring. It still should be some decent testing but I like to get a couple visits in before moving on to another mod. We'll see...
sounds like a good plan, I had a similar one when I bought my car last march but couldn't wait, I ended up having all the mods finished before the season started last year, lol.

although their not for everyone, you'll like the 4.10's while they are in there, once the converter goes in, you might change them, might not, you'll have to run it & see.

since I'll need it sooner rather than later, my car is getting a cage now along with weld rts's, the converter should be along soon.

while I'm still undecided on a converter builder, I would second scott & Chris/Circle D should be your first phone call, but give some thought to a more agressive stall, low 4k's are a minimum in my opinion for these cars. even with a 4k-4200 ish stall you'll be fine on the street with it.
 
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