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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
*** EDITED to incorporate full story of what happened to help explain.

Initially after purchasing these rims (stock) i decided i wanted to paint them black with a red pinstripe. So i removed the tires that were on them and got to work. I sanded the rims down with 220 grit or something around there, and primed the rims. I shot the black paint (dupli color high gloss black engine enamel) and initially everything was good, but because i was a paint novice, i tried using all the paint in the can leading to the paint shooting awkwardly out of the can leaving little spots of paint on the finish. I then, let the rims sit for about a month because of lack of time, and then i wetsanded the paint with 800 grit sandpaper, and applied another coat of black paint. The finish was exactly how i wanted it, and all was great! I continued to tape off the rim so i could add the red pinstripe to the rims. I convered the majority of the rim with newspaper, and taped the rest off with blue painters tape. I shot the red, and upon removing the newspaper and tape i see that my gooddamn tape job wasnt good enough and i got a decent amount of red overspray on the face of the rims. So, i was told, i needed to wait for the rims to cure, and then i could wetsand the overspray off. So thats what i did. I left the red lip untouched and took care of the overspray by wetsanding the entire rim with 1500 grit. Then instead of respraying another coat of black paint, i though i could get away with just spraying the clear coat, because in theory, and in talking to some people, it should have worked. The clear was autmotive catalyst clear from a profession paint shop. So i sprayed the clear on the rims, but due to what i guess was solvent popping, the clear went on extremely bubbly and nasty. (For some stupid ass reason i sprayed all 4 rims with this clear, even though i saw how it was reacting badly initially... Goddamn my stubborn noviceness) At this point i was pretty damn angry, and i didnt know what to do, so i went to a paint shop and talked to some people who gave some advice. He said, i could either strip everything back down using some aircraft stripper and restart the entire process (i would have to remove the tires i put on as well) or i could try sanding the clear again and then adding another coat of black ontop of that, followed by clearing them again.

So instead of cutting all of my losses, i am trying the second option. And thats where i stand right now. I am going to test this process on only one rim so i save time, if this **** doesnt work. But anyway, my "plan" was to wetsand the rim down with 600, shoot another coat or 2 of the black paint, followed by the clearcoat.
This painting process would be completed in one day so i dont **** up the chemical window these paints carry (which is was probably caused me my problems in the first place...

But my concern is, when i initially sanded the black paint and resprayed another coat of black on top of that surface, it had been at least a month between the coats... Which does not follow the "couple days to one week" chemical window. Everything went smoothly anyway... But when i tried added the clear coat to the wetsanded black paint after another month had gone by the **** hit the fan and everything went bad... So basically, because there still might be some clear coat (even though sanded) on the rims, i dont know if i will get solvent popping when i spray the black paint again.


(cliffnotes)
*my plan is to spray another coat of black paint over the rim which has been sanded with 600 grit, and then continue to clear coat the rim. My only concern is that i dont know if i have/have not fully sanded through the clearcoat that i originally sprayed on the rims... The rim is still completely dull and sanded, but i think there still may be parts of the rim with clear (sanded though)

Am i alright just to spray the black coat over the surface at this point or???

*edited again (added pictures) (im guessing the places where it looks lighter is where there is still some clear coat left on the rims)




 

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mm's nitrous mod
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when did you do it last and what paint you using? if you are using a base/clear set up, you will either need to let this paint cure or take it all back off if you recenty painted them. failure to do so can lead to solvent popping.
 

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Wouldnt wet sanding them help? I may be reading his post wrong.
 

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Wax on, Wax off
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You should be fine to go ahead and lay down a coat of black.

Bubbly/spotty clear coat is normally caused because of two reasons:

  1. Tempeture of the air and surface
  2. Humidity
Here is what I would do:

  1. Using a Hair Dryer or Heat gun, heat up the surface to be painted. Don't get it boiling, just very warm.
  2. Being laying down your coats of black
  3. Get the surface warm again
  4. Being laying down your clear coat. Use the Heat source to hasten the drying of each layer of clear. This will allow it to dry eaiser and lessen the chance of moisture oxidizing under the clear.
Using heat to aid on the painting process while using spray cans is a great idea. I use one almost everytime unless its blistering hot outside. Also, don't try to clear coat if theres a lot of humidity or its really cold. If its cold, you will need to get the surface and paint very very warm for it to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
when did you do it last and what paint you using? if you are using a base/clear set up, you will either need to let this paint cure or take it all back off if you recenty painted them. failure to do so can lead to solvent popping.
Original post has been edited and will explain the dilemma

~the last time anything has been painted on these rims (the clearcoat) was about a month or longer ago.

Wouldnt wet sanding them help? I may be reading his post wrong.
read the edited original post

they are wetsanded. sorry its hard to explain.

as of right now (im only working on one rim) it was wetsanded with 600 grit sand paper
 

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Wax on, Wax off
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As long as the clear is "roughed" up, then its fine to paint over it. When painting in this fashion, the clear is rarely fully removed anyways.

I would still take a look at my previous post for some tips on making sure everything lays down correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
As long as the clear is "roughed" up, then its fine to paint over it. When painting in this fashion, the clear is rarely fully removed anyways.

I would still take a look at my previous post for some tips on making sure everything lays down correctly.
this is what i was thinking as well, but i just wanted to get some other opinions as well

You should be fine to go ahead and lay down a coat of black.

Bubbly/spotty clear coat is normally caused because of two reasons:

  1. Tempeture of the air and surface
  2. Humidity
Here is what I would do:

  1. Using a Hair Dryer or Heat gun, heat up the surface to be painted. Don't get it boiling, just very warm.
  2. Being laying down your coats of black
  3. Get the surface warm again
  4. Being laying down your clear coat. Use the Heat source to hasten the drying of each layer of clear. This will allow it to dry eaiser and lessen the chance of moisture oxidizing under the clear.
Using heat to aid on the painting process while using spray cans is a great idea. I use one almost everytime unless its blistering hot outside. Also, don't try to clear coat if theres a lot of humidity or its really cold. If its cold, you will need to get the surface and paint very very warm for it to work.
the day i shot the clear was a nice warm[er] day (70's?) but i did it mainly at night so it may have been like 55ish. As for humidity, here in East Bay Cali, it isnt really that bad, but who knows, maybe the night air played into affect (even though i was in my garage)

anyway, thanks for the tips on the hair dryer. i will definitely be using that technique next week when i do
 

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Discussion Starter #8
also on a side note...

i restored my headlights a while ago, and i want to clean them up again soon, plus i want to vht the side reflectors... and then i was thinking, why not just shoot some clear over the entire headlight. Would there be any problems with this? just wondering
 

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i wouldnt use aircraft remover on them,you will have a hard time getting any paint to stick after that,unless you want to prep and clean them for about a hr
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i wouldnt use aircraft remover on them,you will have a hard time getting any paint to stick after that,unless you want to prep and clean them for about a hr
yea, i really dont want to start back from square one again...

hopefully i can just get away with sanding the rims down a little bit more, shooting another coat or two of black, and then just clearing them.

Im going to test that process out on one rim and pray to god everything goes well...

If it doesnt, then fml
 

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Wax on, Wax off
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also on a side note...

i restored my headlights a while ago, and i want to clean them up again soon, plus i want to vht the side reflectors... and then i was thinking, why not just shoot some clear over the entire headlight. Would there be any problems with this? just wondering
No problem with that at all. Its acually a very normal thing. Check out this thread:

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/general-car-care-detailing/137740-detailed-process-wetsanding-headlights-pics.html

Its just a system of wetsanding, clearing, and polishing.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No problem with that at all. Its acually a very normal thing. Check out this thread:

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/general-car-care-detailing/137740-detailed-process-wetsanding-headlights-pics.html

Its just a system of wetsanding, clearing, and polishing.
thanks for this write up!
my only question is, i thought after finishing up with sanding with the 2000, the clear was suppose to be applied. He used compounds and polishes, and then cleared them.

Wouldnt the polishes and compounds make the surface harder for the clear to grab on to? Or do the IPA take care of that?

Obviously this system has work, and it has worked well, but ive never heard of polishing and buffing before clear. Im used to sanding with the final grit, clearing, then resanding, and then polishing/buffing
 

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i say sand it down more, make sure its good and clean and give abut 20 mins betweens coats, then let if sit atleast 24 hrs before you spray the clear on.

also i put about 5 good coats of clear on my wheels

p.s. i used dupicolor and have had zero problems
 

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Discussion Starter #16
wtf happend lol
lol i have it all posted above. but basically, when i went to clear coat the rims, the clear didnt go on correctly so they looked terribly pitted (probably because of solvent popping), so i have to go and sand them down again, and try to restart

i say sand it down more, make sure its good and clean and give abut 20 mins betweens coats, then let if sit atleast 24 hrs before you spray the clear on.

also i put about 5 good coats of clear on my wheels

p.s. i used dupicolor and have had zero problems
yea, i plan on doing a little bit more sanding, and then ill just pray this 3rd attempt will work. haha
 
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