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After chasing this clutch problem for almost 3 years now, I finally have a nice smooth soft clutch. Thanks to everyone on the forums for their input and recommendations. I had the clutch replaced 2 years ago, and the clutch stayed super stiff. When I pulled the clutch last week it was a Valeo cobra clutch and pressure plate, still in pretty decent shape. The TOB was trash. The guy who installed my clutch the first time didn't use the ford TOB like i recommended, nor the Ford pilot bearing. The pivot ball wasn't replaced, the fork wasn't replaced and he used an adjustable cable instead of a firewall adjuster. This time I replaced everything, including all the tranny bolts, flywheel bolts, and torqued everything to spec. Greased everything up like it should have been, and bought a MM firewall adjuster and cable.

It's amazing how much smoother and softer the pedal is when you do it right! All-in-all, it took around 10 hours from start to finish. So happy to have this problem fixed, and no more transmission/clutch noises!

Word of advise for anyone replacing their clutch
1. Use OEM ford bearings
2. Replace the clutch fork
3. Replace the pivot ball stud
4. NEVER USE AN ADJUSTABLE CABLE, Buy a firewall adjuster and do it right!
 

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IG: opiesvt
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What a perfect time for a thread like this lol. I'm about to pick up an 03 Mustang. I test drove it and the clutch was hard as ****! Compared to my 08 it is, anyway. Pretty much decided to just replace everything like you did here...
Good timing to find something like this. Definitely gonna write this info down.
 

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What a perfect time for a thread like this lol. I'm about to pick up an 03 Mustang. I test drove it and the clutch was hard as ****! Compared to my 08 it is, anyway. Pretty much decided to just replace everything like you did here...
Good timing to find something like this. Definitely gonna write this info down.
Your '08 has a hydraulic clutch (i think), which is 10x easier/softer than the cable driven 3650.
Imo anyway,,,,
It's probably fine, you just gotta get used to it.

Good post op, i'm also rounding those parts as we speak :)
 

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What a perfect time for a thread like this lol. I'm about to pick up an 03 Mustang. I test drove it and the clutch was hard as ****! Compared to my 08 it is, anyway. Pretty much decided to just replace everything like you did here...
Good timing to find something like this. Definitely gonna write this info down.
Wimp :lol


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Head Unicorn
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Your '08 has a hydraulic clutch (i think), which is 10x easier/softer than the cable driven 3650.
Imo anyway,,,,
It's probably fine, you just gotta get used to it.

Good post op, i'm also rounding those parts as we speak :)
Correct. I believe it's McLeod that makes a hydraulic conversion for our factory cable equipped cars. It's about $500 if my memory is correct.
 

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It is a fallacy that hydraulic clutch controls require any less pedal pressure, all else being equal--here's why.


With regard to adjustable clutch cables, all that I have seen fail broke for the same reason--improper installation. The dome (adjuster) nut and the jam nut were installed on opposite sides of the release lever, like this:



This forces the cable to flex as the release lever pivots on its post, concentrating stress at the point the cable is crimped into the adjustment stud--eventually the cable fatigues and fails--like this:



They should be installed as shown below, which allows the adjustment stud to pivot in the release lever and keep the strain on the cable inline with the stud:

 

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Head Unicorn
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It is a fallacy that hydraulic clutch controls require any less pedal pressure, all else being equal--here's why.


With regard to adjustable clutch cables, all that I have seen fail broke for the same reason--improper installation. The dome (adjuster) nut and the jam nut were installed on opposite sides of the release lever, like this:



This forces the cable to flex as the release lever pivots on its post, concentrating stress at the point the cable is crimped into the adjustment stud--eventually the cable fatigues and fails--like this:



They should be installed as shown below, which allows the adjustment stud to pivot in the release lever and keep the strain on the cable inline with the stud:

Cliffy to the rescue again lol. I've never considered that to be why the cables fail, makes perfect sense though. As I've said many times, I'm a firm believer in adjustable cables and I've had one on every Mustang I've owned with no failures ever.
 

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IG: opiesvt
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Your '08 has a hydraulic clutch (i think), which is 10x easier/softer than the cable driven 3650.
Imo anyway,,,,
It's probably fine, you just gotta get used to it.
Yea, I got used to it after about the first 20 feet down the street during the test drive. It was just 10x more noticeable getting out of my 08, right into the Termi.


Wimp :lol
Hahaha
 

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Thank god the op did this before me. He is helping me replace mine this winter, right Michael? :lol is your clutch like mine now?


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What a perfect time for a thread like this lol. I'm about to pick up an 03 Mustang. I test drove it and the clutch was hard as ****! Compared to my 08 it is, anyway. Pretty much decided to just replace everything like you did here...
Good timing to find something like this. Definitely gonna write this info down.
Do it. It's not that bad. If you have a helping hand to help you lift the transmission and balance it on a jack.

Correct. I believe it's McLeod that makes a hydraulic conversion for our factory cable equipped cars. It's about $500 if my memory is correct.
I looked at this, but it's not worth the money.

It is a fallacy that hydraulic clutch controls require any less pedal pressure, all else being equal--here's why.


With regard to adjustable clutch cables, all that I have seen fail broke for the same reason--improper installation. The dome (adjuster) nut and the jam nut were installed on opposite sides of the release lever, like this:



This forces the cable to flex as the release lever pivots on its post, concentrating stress at the point the cable is crimped into the adjustment stud--eventually the cable fatigues and fails--like this:



They should be installed as shown below, which allows the adjustment stud to pivot in the release lever and keep the strain on the cable inline with the stud:



Cliffy to the rescue again lol. I've never considered that to be why the cables fail, makes perfect sense though. As I've said many times, I'm a firm believer in adjustable cables and I've had one on every Mustang I've owned with no failures ever.
Mine was installed and adjusted correctly, and it broke after a year and 9 months. And the clutch was hard as hell to push. I will never use an adjustable cable again. Mine failed about a foot up the line from the adjuster.

Thank god the op did this before me. He is helping me replace mine this winter, right Michael? :lol is your clutch like mine now?


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Possibly. It's not too bad. I know how to get that starter bolt and those pesky top bellhousing bolts. And yes, it's nice having a clutch that I am able to push down. Haha

Too much cash. $500 that could be used for more mods.
 

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FWIW, my OEM cable broke after running a UPR quadrant for 3-1/2 years/80k miles (click here for more), and as I needed a cable NOW I replaced it with an ATP cable from Advance Auto.

When originally purchased my plan was to order a Ford cable, however I was impressed by the ATP cable's same as OEM quality and never ordered the Ford replacement--and will report that 1-1/2 years later it continues to do the job.

There is no need to use an adjustable cable if you uses a 2 or 3 hook quadrant and a firewall adjuster, it just adds another level of complication...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Like cam install and tune? :shiftyeyes


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Correct ;)

FWIW, my OEM cable broke after running a UPR quadrant for 3-1/2 years/80k miles (click here for more), and as I needed a cable NOW I replaced it with an ATP cable from Advance Auto.

When originally purchased my plan was to order a Ford cable, however I was impressed by the ATP cable's same as OEM quality and never ordered the Ford replacement--and will report that 1-1/2 years later it continues to do the job.

There is no need to use an adjustable cable if you uses a 2 or 3 hook quadrant and a firewall adjuster, it just adds another level of complication...
Yes, I went from an adjustable cable to a MM cable and MM firewall adjuster. I have the Ford racing 2 hook quadrant, but the cable it too short even with the adjuster all the way in to put it on the top hook :/
 
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