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i was just thinking about this last night, (i know out foxes are nose heavy) and i understand the iron blocks are stronger and more durable than an aluminum block. But if im only tryin to make 500hp lets say, would an aluminum block be fine, and how much weight will it save me?

Just throwin some ideas around, id figure it should save me atleast 50lbs right?

Plus aluminum heads,battery in trunk, tubular k member, a arms, coilovers, AC delete,fiberglass hood, etc etc id drop close to 200lbs off the front end,
 

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ya they are 5k plus for an aluminum and they are very strong but very expensive... you could spend the 2500 on an iron eagle block and the other 2500 on a sick ass rotating assymboly and have a bullet proof motor that weighs more yes but will have a longer service life.
 

· Genibus Nitito Canus
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darts billet blocks look sexy
 

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aluminum block is not a good idea for street usage because of heat buildup. heck, unless your wanting 2500+ hp, aluminum block shouldnt even come out of your mouth.
 

· Genibus Nitito Canus
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aluminum block is not a good idea for street usage because of heat buildup. heck, unless your wanting 2500+ hp, aluminum block shouldnt even come out of your mouth.
then why does ford use aluminum in pretty much all its production blocks now?
 

· Priest of the Car Gods
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aluminum block is not a good idea for street usage because of heat buildup. heck, unless your wanting 2500+ hp, aluminum block shouldnt even come out of your mouth.
Wha-huh?

Every N/A DOHC 4.6L is aluminum block
Every 3v 4.6 is aluminum block
The new Coyote engine is aluminum block
Every Chevy LS motor is aluminum block (with the exception of MAYBE the LS9)
Just about every Japanese motor made since the mid-90s is aluminum block

Aluminum is a significantly better conductor than iron, too, so it sheds heat into your coolant significantly better. In my opinion, this makes it a BETTER substance for a street motor.

Strength is only an issue if the company is being cheap about the block. Teskid blocks used in the early DOHC 4.6 are good to 1,000hp. SR20s (Nissan 2.0L turbo motors) are good to over 500, and there are internet examples pushing over 700. LS motors come out of the factory with over 600 hp, and I don't even know what you can build an LS7 to.

Not trying to jump your s:mad:t, man, just don't want people thinking aluminum is bad when it's not.
 

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Wha-huh?

Every N/A DOHC 4.6L is aluminum block
Every 3v 4.6 is aluminum block
The new Coyote engine is aluminum block
Every Chevy LS motor is aluminum block (with the exception of MAYBE the LS9)
Just about every Japanese motor made since the mid-90s is aluminum block

Aluminum is a significantly better conductor than iron, too, so it sheds heat into your coolant significantly better. In my opinion, this makes it a BETTER substance for a street motor.

Strength is only an issue if the company is being cheap about the block. Teskid blocks used in the early DOHC 4.6 are good to 1,000hp. SR20s (Nissan 2.0L turbo motors) are good to over 500, and there are internet examples pushing over 700. LS motors come out of the factory with over 600 hp, and I don't even know what you can build an LS7 to.

Not trying to jump your s:mad:t, man, just don't want people thinking aluminum is bad when it's not.
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