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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok here we go my 89 foxbody will start but it takes like 2 times with a high rev and then it idles a little ruff, amps drop below 12 at idle but drives fine when she's warmed up(amps drop when sitting at light tho). I read in couple of threads that it might be the wiring or ground but are these systems accurate with that? Anyhow I'm gonna get it checked out, any info would be greatly appreciated...thanks I'm also thinking of doing a 3g swap?

***New battery and battery terminals are new***
 

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whens the last time you changed the fuel filter?
 

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No, but the amps will drop at idle anyways. Stock foxbody alternators suck. And a low idle will make it drop more
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Ok changed the fuel filter but still cold start ups are bad it(car starts and fights the idle amps drop below 12 and then it turns off, takes me 2 good times to get the car running and staying on...???? I hear the fuel pump when I turn the key so I'm thinking it can't be that. Maybe it is the alternator(I think I'm gonna do the 3g conversion)...or wiring...head gasket is now leaking so I need to replace that...anyhow I'll keep trying to figure this out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok I think I found the problem, MAF my be dirty or bad....I just took off the air intake and MAF sensor and cleaned all up, just waiting for it dry out...I guess we'll see...next will be my fuel injectors..? ( I disconnected the MAF sensor and turned on the car and ran ok for a little and then went back to old symptoms...so I cleaned it and lets see)
 

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Hey man I've had a very similar problem. I just my first car..89 5.0L LX.. heres what i've done so far. First changed all the fluids (winter package at a Ford Dealership) like you I cleaned the MAF. As well as the throttle body, IAC, cleaned all the connectors and electrical connections that i could reach with Motor All connector cleaner, cleaned battery posts, changed spark plugs, got a new napa battery and alternator. There are 2 10 pin connectors behind the upper manifold dubbed "salt and pepper" cause ones black and ones white..what I've learned is that you disconnect them and spread the male terminals out so they make a better connection (and clean them and die-electric grease em). Hmm what else. Checked TPS for a good voltage. Reset base idle. Thats about it so far. Now the idle went from **** like yours to very acceptable.

I'm still having an issue with a fuseable link but it'll be fixed soon.

Check out my post called "need help with EGR, TPS and fuseable link issue.. you'll see the fuseable like I'm talking about..eventually i'm going to run all 3 wires straight to the soleniod.

Just thought I'd share with you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
thanks man....great info...it's weird cause when i push in the clutch the amps go up. Has happened to you?
 

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thanks man....great info...it's weird cause when i push in the clutch the amps go up. Has happened to you?
I've got an automatic. But my battery works fine now. A few days back I accidentally crossed terminals with the oil dip stick when I was checkn the oil. The amps got sucked right out. But eventually my alternator charged it right back up.

Thats another story. My alternator, bought it from Napa as well as the battery, I cant remember what amp it is..but it had to be "jammed" into place. I was wondering, what is the 3g conversion I've read on your posts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
its from a 95 mustang it puts out more....and it is bigger so the bracket has to be modified...I'm gonna do it, but I think I'm gonna sell the car...just got bad news about my wifes health...leaning towards selling now!
 
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