Modded Mustang Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
mr. chokebot
Joined
·
749 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Last night:
Fired right up. Sat for about a minute, then popped fuse #8 into it's place so I could listen to some music. I keep it out until I can fix the voltage leak that's coming from my passenger side vanity mirror. A few seconds after I put the fuse in, car dies. So I take the fuse back out, try to start again. Cranks, will not start.

I notice the low fuel light is on. Gauge reads 50%. Add a gallon just to be on the safe side. Still won't fire. Suspect in-tank fuel pump. Abandon for the night, catch a ride home from work.

This morning:
Try, try again. Takes a couple of tries, but it finally catches and runs. Giddy, I take it for a quick drive to the closest gas station to see how much fuel it'll take. Tries to cut out a few times on the way there, but doesn't cut out completely. Put 5.249 gallons in, so I know it's got gas.

And of course now it won't re-start. Same thing. Cranks, but won't fire. If I throttle up, it'll race the engine, but it won't stay lit. So, I'm thinking it could be an electrical issue with the in-tank fuel pump? I can hear the electric pump running when I turn the key into ACC, if I hold it there.
 

·
KCCO
Joined
·
5,974 Posts
Possibly an injector issue? Mine would not fire at all when I first attempted startup of the new engine, new injectors, etc. starting fluid would fire it, rails had pressure, but no combustion. Figured all 8 injectors couldn't be bad since they were new, but to make a long story short, I took all 8 injectors out, put power/gnd to them, and couldn't hear the solenoid clicking. Tapped them all on the ground and cleaned with brake cleaner, reinstalled, and has been running like a dream ever since. Mind you, these injectors were never used, but must've gotten gummed up from sitting on the shelf.

Check your fuel rail pressure. That'll tell you if your pumps are bad or not. If you have spark and good fuel pressure, it's gotta be the injectors.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
So it starts if you hold some throttle on? Does it fire up with some external fuel(starting fluid or gas sprayed in the intake)? If you disconnect your starter and turn the key to start does the fuel pump run while held in the start position? Another guy on here recently had some thing similar with a bad ignition switch being the problem, not firing the fuel pump during cranking. How's the fuel filter/s?
 

·
mr. chokebot
Joined
·
749 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Figured it out. Hell of a thing. There's a white cable connector that snaps into place on the steering column. Well, my came loose. It's not like a normal connector with positive clips, it just kind of snaps in. But mine doesn't. You can see towards the front of the car how there is a small gap between the white connector and the silver housing. Just enough. If I push it in all the way, all is well. But it won't stay in place. It's not a plug like we would normally think of, it's just copper contact against copper contacts. DUMB.

HOWEVER, that lead to a new problem. I think I might have broken my ignition switch. I get no resistance when turning the key, it goes all the way forward. So yippie.

THEN I noticed this small white thing with copper contacts sitting on the floor. No friggin clue where this came from.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Hmmm can you pull the plug back out of the box on the colum? It looks like a set of contacts from inside the ignition switch, which should be the silver box that the white plug is attached to.
 

·
mr. chokebot
Joined
·
749 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Yeah, I saw that earlier today when I discovered that was the original problem. Backasswards way of doing it, but whatever. It was also recommended to me that it could be a clutch switch, I guess like a neutral safety switch.

It's a moot point right now, I also need to replace the ignition switch, which also decided to break this morning.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
The clutch safety switch directly controls the starter and the cruise only, it doesn't talk to the computer. If it cranks, the clutch safety is good
 

·
KCCO
Joined
·
5,974 Posts
The clutch safety switch directly controls the starter and the cruise only, it doesn't talk to the computer. If it cranks, the clutch safety is good
This is very interesting. Not to thread jack, but my clutch safety switch actually went bad and I hardwired it. But my cruise control doesn't work now. Would I have to put in a switch to turn "off" the override for cruise control to work?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,351 Posts


Thats the ignition switch. Replace it, obviously. Never try to fix or repair a broken ignition switch, its a fire hazard. That silver half has little fingers holding the two halves together. Those fingers will eventually work themselves loose just enough that the switch will not work properly, or literally fall apart which is what yours did. Yours is the first ive seen where the plastic half broke in half. Like i said, replace it. Your key is easy to turn because the ignition switch broke in half (your lock cylinder should be fine btw). When you turn the key it operates a slider in the column. That slider has a post on it that engages the switch and the contacts inside can do thier thing. Basically, that switch is where the resistance comes from. When you pull the switch off youll see that post im talking about.

The two screws take 'i think' a T10 security bit. Disconnect the battery and put the key in RUN. Pull the rest of the switch off and put the new one in. Make sure its set to RUN. A new switch should already be set but its always a good idea to check. Tighten the screws (50-69 INCH pounds which isnt much really), hook up the battery and the switch harness and make sure everything works properly.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top