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Discussion Starter #1
Im wanting to get some BBR lower control arms for my car, Im not lowering it. My question is, is it a problem just putting lowers on? I mean stouting up the lowers, would it put additional stress on the factory upper?
 

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I've never heard of anyone having issues by only putting lowers on (actually saw that BMR recommended this to several people). I'd definitely recommend LCAs for both wheel hop reduction and handling improvements. They made a huge improvement on my car and are very easy to install.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks MyGG, I wasn't sure.
 

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No problem. Good luck and enjoy modding!
 

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You can run into a slight issue. Since the bushings in the aftermarket LCAs are stiffer than stock, you may notice the stock UCA clunking occasionally. Some people notice it, some don't. I didn't have it for the first 5k miles after swapping out just the LCAs. Of course I may also be noticing the stock two-piece driveshaft as well.

If you notice the clunk later on, just use that as an excuse to upgrade the upper as well. :)
 

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the problem is not with the factory uca, it lies in the mount. The bolt hole is bigger in the mount than in the uca, the bolt moves back and forth and we get the clunking. I found the uca made my car alot louder with road noise. I ended up with a after market uca mount and the stock uca and did't get any more wheel hop with out it. btw the stock mount is a pos anyway
 

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Very good post brianm.

SatinSilver06Stang, Lowers will help the performance, tremendously! If you have any other suspension questions, feel free to pick my brain!

I am also running a killer deal right now on some stuff, including an Anti-Wheel Hop Kit.

:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
CoolBeans, I wanting to eventually put an aluminum D/S in also, do you have to adjust pinion angle when going to the new 1-piece D/S requiring adjustable control arms? I don't wanna buy non-adjustable now if I have to turn around and buy adjustable ones later. Any help on this would be great. Also, I am not lowering my car at all, where I live is pitiful roads and ****.
 

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If you go the route of the 1 piece DS and need to adjust for pinion angle, don't get adjustable lowers, get an adjustable upper. This way you can also wait on the upper until you go for the driveshaft. Only one variable to adjust as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks, but I shouldn't have to adjust pinion angle would I? I can't seem to get a straight answer on this.
 

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Thanks, but I shouldn't have to adjust pinion angle would I? I can't seem to get a straight answer on this.
You won't get a straight answer. Your car is built with production tolerances, if you change something slightly it may or may not require a correction. It's not difficult to check your pinion angle.

If you're concerned about it, get non-adjustable lowers, put the driveshaft in, check your pinion angle. If you need to adjust it, get an adjustable upper and aftermarket mount. If you don't need to adjust the pinion angle, well, buy yourself a good bottle of scotch or something and pat yourself on the back.

Point is, you won't know until you get there. So budget like you have to and you'll be golden.
 

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Point is, you won't know until you get there. So budget like you have to and you'll be golden.[/QUOTE]

This could be some of thee best advice i have ever seen on a forum!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
10-4, I know how to adjust pinion angle, I just didn't know if I was going to need to. But, a very good point on the tolerances, prolly get some the BBR non-adjustable lowers, go from there. Thanks for all the info, also, does any body ever run the Billet lowers from BBR? Any one have a certain recommendation on a set of lowers? I like the idea of billet for the weight savings and strength, also like the bling factor of polished billet.
 

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I'm running the black CHE pieces (three years and no problems) but the lowers are surprisingly one of the more visible suspension parts, so if you want the bling, spring for the billet pieces. You would be getting into material science theory if you wanted to know if a billet piece performed better than a tubular steel piece. Anything is better than stock though.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Im thinkin BBR billets, they say there the lightest, but that could be an issue on strength? I so damn lost, the mod bug has bit me square in the ass!!!! I wanna buy everything, LOL.
 

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Just sayn that i run a few BMR parts and so far they are gettin my money for the rest when i get to it.
 

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I started with the BMR LCA's and they are awesome. Be careful, you get what you pay for.
 
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