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Discussion Starter #1
I can't get these suckers off! The e-brake doesn't work on my driver side which doesn't help but it's in gear. I've been nailing it with PB blaster for the last couple days and using a breaker bar but I just end up spinning the engine instead of breaking the bolts. I've also tried using a jack with a heavy duty wrench but in the end the only thing that happens is the car lifting higher off the ground.

I read heat works because of lock-tight but I don't have access to a torch. Would a hair dryer be able to do some justice here?? The tools I borrowed need to be returned tomorrow so I really need these PITA bolts off!

I'd feel like an idiot if it wasn't but these bolts are the typical righty tighty, lefty loosey right? (If no I may end up sulking in a corner for the next month).
 

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Put your car in first gear if it isn't already so the engine is harder to turn over, and have a friend hold the front crank pulley to help keep it from spining, if it still spins you can try sticking a prybar through the front pulley to hold it in place.

Yes they're lefty loosey.
 

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Your in Ill. so there is probably rust. Heat might help break the rust bond. I think a propane torch might work.

Try getting some pieces of 4 by lumber and stacking it to get something 8-12" thick to set the rear tires on. That will help to keep the wheels from turning. Then use a long breaker bar plus length of pipe.

If that doesn't work it may be best to take it to a shop and let them use air tools on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I try to humor all my options, even a blow dryer... lol. I don't have access to a torch, nor have any experience with one so that would probably end bad.

Is there anything I can rig up with a wrench to get good leverage? I think I'm starting to round off the stud because the socket+breaker bar has trouble really getting in there. I do have it in first but I'll try holding the front crank pulley in place. I also don't have anything that comes to mind lying around to hold the wheels still, but would placing a jack underneath the driver side rear tire (the one the e-brake doesn't stop) do the trick? I can't see it really damaging the tire at all.

The thing that gets me is that when I had it in the shop recently to get my exhaust, the guy removed the drive shaft to take off my loose damper (without my permission but I did want it gone). I would assume it would make things easier having the bolts recently removed. Is there anything he could have done that is making this extremely difficult?
 

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Just Cheesin'
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Get a crowbar and put it in your wheel that spins to keep it from spinning. That or put a prybay and put it through the U-joint..

OR if you have a VICE GRIP with the chain, strap it around the DS. I just use an impact wrench though. Try doing an impact action on your wrench.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm curious how you have the clearance for the impact wrench? I'm banging my head just trying to figure out how to maneuver the breaker bar in there for a good grip.

I'll try putting it through the U-joint tomorrow. I'm afraid I'd ruin my rims if I stuck it through one of those.
 

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I'm curious how you have the clearance for the impact wrench? I'm banging my head just trying to figure out how to maneuver the breaker bar in there for a good grip.

I'll try putting it through the U-joint tomorrow. I'm afraid I'd ruin my rims if I stuck it through one of those.
How high do you have the car jacked up? I know it can be a bit of a squeeze to slid under, but you should have no problem getting an impact wrench under there.
 

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Just Cheesin'
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Well...

1) I put my car on a lift when I work on it, so I can walk under it..

2) I have $4000 worth of tools and the right combination of said tools to make it work.

Plus if you let the rearend droop, it puts the DS at the right angle to make clearance.
 

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Plus if you let the rearend droop, it puts the DS at the right angle to make clearance.
+1. Jack stands on the frame rails give you more room to work.

If you don't have an impact, try a wrench and a hammer.
Agreed. But don't use a ratchet instead of a wrench unless you have high quality tools. I did the hammer and ratchet method to break loose a bolt on one of my struts once. The ratchet was cheap and I broke that thing into pieces.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I just got myself a cheater bar and a nice long crow bar to see if I can crack these suckers! I'll try giving it a few hits with a hammer and wrench to see if I can loosen it up first though. I appreciate all the advice! I already drained the trans fluid so it's sort of stuck unless I want to waist fresh fluid for a 2 minute trip.

What I meant by clearance is how did you get room to get the gun in between the bolt and DS? I was barely able to get the breaker bar in and that even took some negotiating. The room under the car itself isn't too much of an issue. I'd like to have it on a lift but it's high enough so I can at least lay on my side to get some extra leverage.
 

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I just got myself a cheater bar and a nice long crow bar to see if I can crack these suckers! I'll try giving it a few hits with a hammer and wrench to see if I can loosen it up first though. I appreciate all the advice! I already drained the trans fluid so it's sort of stuck unless I want to waist fresh fluid for a 2 minute trip.

What I meant by clearance is how did you get room to get the gun in between the bolt and DS? I was barely able to get the breaker bar in and that even took some negotiating. The room under the car itself isn't too much of an issue. I'd like to have it on a lift but it's high enough so I can at least lay on my side to get some extra leverage.
Well..

Plus if you let the rearend droop, it puts the DS at the right angle to make clearance.
And I used a 3/8 impact with a 6" extension, and swivel, and a extra shallow socket.
 
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