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Discussion Starter #1
I have been thinking about building my engine up but with doing some research I found the aluminator already build

the one I'm looking at has 8.5:1 compression
forged pistons
h-beam rods
forged steel crankshaft
cobra heads and camshafts

Just wondering if anyone here has went this route or just built there engine?
 

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If i had the cash i'd be first in line to get an aluminator. I believe most people build their motors because of the cost.
 

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Bringing Yellow Back
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when i start to build and engine thats what im going to be building
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If i had the cash i'd be first in line to get an aluminator. I believe most people build their motors because of the cost.
I have no clue how to do the work myself so labor to rebuild an engine is going to be a lot so I'm thinking that might be the cheaper way to go

I could always sell the 4.6 thats in there and get some money back.
 

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Bob The Mo'fukkin Builda!
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car is going to the dyno for tuning wed. if for some reason the stock block doesn't hold up this will be going in. i however will be going for the stock compression 9.8:1 rather than that one.
 

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I don't do any machine work i don't have any of the tools needed for that stuff. Now assembly of the short block i can do some of that myself. I do the rest by my self.
 

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The Mustang Shop
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I have been thinking about building my engine up but with doing some research I found the aluminator already build

the one I'm looking at has 8.5:1 compression
forged pistons
h-beam rods
forged steel crankshaft
cobra heads and camshafts

Just wondering if anyone here has went this route or just built there engine?
They are great engines. The low compression is fine for a TS or turbo. it's to low for a centri though.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
They are great engines. The low compression is fine for a TS or turbo. it's to low for a centri though.
So my KB would not work on that engine?
 

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It sounds like a built shortblock is definitely the way to go for you. It's really the way to go for most people. I can fully assemble a motor beyond the machining. Tough for us, the modular motors, especially the 3V and 4Vs, require a more knowledge than your typical motor. Most machine shops have no idea so it's hard next to impossible to find a place local that is competent. Ask them if they use torque plates and they either tell you that they don't know what they are or that you don't need them to machine the bores.

The FRPP Aluminator is a great solid motor. They have two different compression ratios though. What are you plans? How much boost do you want to run?

If you only want to run something along the lines of 12-14 lb than you could go with the Aluminator with the OEM compression ratio of 9.8:1 and get even power. Reducing the compression ratio is going to lose some power but you'll be able to turn the boost up higher.

If you're going to be doing this. I really suggest you spend the extra money on a high quality oil pump as it's one of the primary causes of motor failure in built motors. Go with the TSS oil pump and consider it insurance.

http://www.trianglespeedshop.com/tsss-products/

So my KB would not work on that engine?
Yes, it will work. The KB is a twin screw (TS).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It sounds like a built shortblock is definitely the way to go for you. It's really the way to go for most people. I can fully assemble a motor beyond the machining. Tough for us, the modular motors, especially the 3V and 4Vs, require a more knowledge than your typical motor. Most machine shops have no idea so it's hard next to impossible to find a place local that is competent. Ask them if they use torque plates and they either tell you that they don't know what they are or that you don't need them to machine the bores.

The FRPP Aluminator is a great solid motor. They have two different compression ratios though. What are you plans? How much boost do you want to run?

If you only want to run something along the lines of 12-14 lb than you could go with the Aluminator with the OEM compression ratio of 9.8:1 and get even power. Reducing the compression ratio is going to lose some power but you'll be able to turn the boost up higher.

If you're going to be doing this. I really suggest you spend the extra money on a high quality oil pump as it's one of the primary causes of motor failure in built motors. Go with the TSS oil pump and consider it insurance.

TSS’s Oil Pumps -Triangle Speed Shop



Yes, it will work. The KB is a twin screw (TS).
O nvm my bad,This is what I have been looking at. Aluminator 4.6L DOHC Long Block Supercharged M-6007-A46SC | Ford Racing | Crate Motors | Crate Engines | FordPowerShop.com

open to all input.
 

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that has 4v heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well I talked to my guy at my speed shop and he said that it would cost more to go with the block.

He said that they would just take it apart and build the bottom end like a brick **** house then order the stage 3 accessories kit from KB, and I will be at less then just the block.

that block takes a 8 bolt flywheel I already have a spec alum 6 bolt so why go threw all that bs just build it.


18lbs of boost here I come.............lol
 

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The thing about the aluminator you need to think about is that it is just a long block vs starting with a complete motor you have with your 3v. That means new intake, fuel system/injection, and front drive accessories. The fuel system likely work (with new injectors and possibly a pump), but my guess, and there are likely some folks on the board that would know for sure, is that you would be buying an intake and all new front drive accessories. This seems like a very important consideration when comparing the cost of a rebuild of your 3v 4.6 vs getting an aluminator.
 

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there is a shotblock aluminator also. which everything stock should connect right to it. if even accepts the stock heads
 

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Bob The Mo'fukkin Builda!
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^ yup what he just said. just go with the shortblock aluminator. throw the rest of your stuff on it (heads, cams, sc'er, front cover, ect). waste of money for them to take apart a brand new forged shortblock just to put different forged parts in it
 

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Well I talked to my guy at my speed shop and he said that it would cost more to go with the block.

He said that they would just take it apart and build the bottom end like a brick **** house then order the stage 3 accessories kit from KB, and I will be at less then just the block.

that block takes a 8 bolt flywheel I already have a spec alum 6 bolt so why go threw all that bs just build it.


18lbs of boost here I come.............lol
Ask your shop if they use torque plates when honing the bore. Ask them what micron they deck the block and heads. Changing a flywheel is far from a big deal when you're going to be replacing a motor. What shop is it?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ask your shop if they use torque plates when honing the bore. Ask them what micron they deck the block and heads. Changing a flywheel is far from a big deal when you're going to be replacing a motor. What shop is it?
Don's Auto Parts & Machine Shop there in Kenosha WI
 

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has anyone found any stats on this shortblock? like, how much HP it can handle? ive clicked on every link i can find on it and no stats to be found. if there are no stats, can anyone with engine knowledge make an educated guess how how much it can take? and will it be anymore HP itself than the stock engine?
 

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has anyone found any stats on this shortblock? like, how much HP it can handle? ive clicked on every link i can find on it and no stats to be found. if there are no stats, can anyone with engine knowledge make an educated guess how how much it can take? and will it be anymore HP itself than the stock engine?
It should be good up to 750-800 rwhp. Like I said earlier, get the TSS oil pump and that will increase your longevity.
 
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