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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a recurring problem with damaging the upper control arm bushings, differential end, they get shifted partially out of the cup or metal sleve. This has happened twice now and I believe it is due to the lower control arms I run. UPR pro LCAs with spherical rod end and aluminum bushing on the other end. My upper control arms and bushings are stock type.

Is there any way to prevent this other than the two most obvious solutions? Go to a lower control arm with forgiving bushings. OR Install a torque arm/panhard bar.

Edit for pics, note that the pics are upside down.

Bad one



Good one

 

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I Have A FLATULENT Butthole.
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I damaged mine when they hit the bottom of the trash can.
That's silly... I've never heard of someone driving their car in a trash can :shiftyeyes
 

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Procrastinator
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where your uppers mount to the chassis might be damaged/out of place causing extra stress on the bushings that might make them walk out of place. Or maybe your sleeves don't sit as tight in the housing as they should. You could get something like this 79-04 Mustang Billet 8.8" Spherical Bushings so you dont have to worry about them walking out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Edited my original post to include perty pics. :)

well the super hard lower set up makes it requires all the shock adsoption to be taken up by the upper control arms
Yes the unforgiving lowers are certainly causing this problem. Just drag racing does not seem to cause damage to the upper bushings. AutoX and drift/grip seem to cause the bushing to pop put of it's shell.

where your uppers mount to the chassis might be damaged/out of place causing extra stress on the bushings that might make them walk out of place. Or maybe your sleeves don't sit as tight in the housing as they should. You could get something like this 79-04 Mustang Billet 8.8" Spherical Bushings so you dont have to worry about them walking out.
I had welded up and reinforced all rear suspension attachment points last year. The upper mounts look good just the bushing gets popped out of the shell. The metal shell remains in place. I certainly don't want sphyrical bushings on the uppers also. I figure that would make my binding issues even worse.

From what I can gather my best bet is to go to a torque arm and pan hard bar setup, eliminating the uppers completely.
 

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Head Unicorn
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How 'bout pics of the inside edge of each sleeve? The easy fix for this is Sphericals on the axle side. One of the best upgrades you can do as it all but completely eliminates binding.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This pic is from several months ago. Same thing happened and I drove it for a couple months, 1000 miles. Literally the bushing gets popped out of the metal sleeve and the UCA shifts over, rubbing on the metal sleeve.

I thought a spherical bushing on the UCA with spherical on the LCA would cause bad binding in aggressive corners and drifitng?

 

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Head Unicorn
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Sphericals solve binding issues, they don't create them. You need sphericals based on what I'm looking at inside the UCA. Excessive bind is your problem. Replacing, at a minimum, the axle side with sphericals..... and even better the uppers with a body side spherical will solve your woes.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sphericals solve binding issues, they don't create them. You need sphericals based on what I'm looking at inside the UCA. Excessive bind is your problem. Replacing, at a minimum, the axle side with sphericals..... and even better the uppers with a body side spherical will solve your woes.
Are you sure? I thought the spherical bushing in UCAs made the binding situation worse with spherical LCAs. Where is Jazzer when you need him?
 

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Head Unicorn
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PM Jazzer if you choose. Shpericals eliminate bind. I have no idea where you're coming up with sphericals cause bind. Sphericals are high-misalignment bushings that eliminate bind. I'm at a loss for where you've come up with this information. Spherical equals almost infinite motion....... no bind. Yes, I'm sure. Not my first rodeo. PM Jazzer so he can tell you the same thing.
 

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!FACEPLATED!
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Are you sure? I thought the spherical bushing in UCAs made the binding situation worse with spherical LCAs. Where is Jazzer when you need him?
its poly bushings on the UCA that cause binding issues. To have absolute 0 bind, the best way to go is spherical on all sides of the control arms upper and lower
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You guys are correct! I had to do some searching and reading. Thanks for the replies.



Adjustable spherical UCA:

Like the LCA's above, these UCA's have a spherical (Heim jointed) end. This "eyeball" socket allows the arm to rotate multiple directions simultaneously. Combined with the poly/spherical LCA's above, this is a major relief to the rear axle bind of the 4 link*. For the next step in solid rear axle (SRA) cornering performance, one must forgo the UCA's altogether and can go with a Panhard bar or Watts link and torque-arm. There are also some other designs, such as the tri-link or 5 link conversion, but will not get into those here.

http://mustangforums.com/forum/suspension/553765-the-official-suspension-guide.html
 

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Head Unicorn
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For the next step in solid rear axle (SRA) cornering performance, one must forgo the UCA's altogether and can go with a Panhard bar or Watts link and torque-arm. There are also some other designs, such as the tri-link or 5 link conversion.

The Official Suspension Guide - MustangForums.com
This is true too. However, remember focus on the ultimate goals and intended use of the car. The above portion I quoted is the exact opposite of what you want if you're focused on drag racing... or any straight line racing for the most part. If you're looking for auto-x, road course, or the ultimate street car for the twisties the quote is correct.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The intended use of my stang is drag, Autox, drift, and maybe some track events. Therefore it needs to be able to do all reasonably well. I think long term the torque arm and panhard bar are going to be the best for my stang.
 

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Head Unicorn
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yep
 
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