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Potato
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Discussion Starter #1
Basically I have heard nothing but bad things about the AM rear seat delete, and I'm not paying $1000 for the X bar rear rear seat delete. Anyone make their own?
 

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I have! Did a custom subwoofer on the back piece of MDF board, and mounted my amp to the bottom piece. It took me and my dad about 2 full days to find the measurments, angles. get material, cut the sub opening, apply speaker carpet, and we are both carpenters for a living.
 

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That's nice! More pics please....

I'm thinking about making a delete myself, but I need mine to fold down so I can stash a bike in the trunk.
 

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Don't BAAAAH 'Til Goatsday
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I have taken mine out twice. It looks hell of awkard with out them and notting to cover the previous spot. The am rear set delete basicly is a peace of crapet that covers up the holes left from the seats.
 

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Sure! I am about to take some in a minute anyways o fthe car ill get a couple of the setup. My top piece is held in by two bolts that used to hold the seats in, so I just drilled out where thse existing holes were and used two bolts, couldnt use the ones from the seats they had to be longer. As for the bottom piece, it is screwed into the top piece, the bottom picece also had rubber footings under it to keep from any noise, and then the sub and amp are both screwed in. I bought the speaker box carpet from best buy for $20 and stapled it to the back piece that you will never see, as long as you pull tight and get all the wrinkles out its much faster than glueing and if you screw up you can start over.
 

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Not the greatest, there taken by my phone. You will notice the bolts, only thing I would change is they would be black.
 

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Potato
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1,159 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Mind posting measurements? I was thinking no2 bottle mounted.
 

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Here is my take on a seat kind of delete. I knew I wanted to permanently close the pass through. It is required when you put a battery in the back and it makes the rear bulkhead stronger. So I closed that with a .100" sheet aluminum adhesive and many pop rivets. Then I wanted to be able to fold down the rear seat for looks and so I have flat parcel shelf but I didn't want to eliminate the seat just in case I needed it. I have some plastic surrounds for those clasps on the back panel now.



 

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Potato
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Discussion Starter #11
Here is my take on a seat kind of delete. I knew I wanted to permanently close the pass through. It is required when you put a battery in the back and it makes the rear bulkhead stronger. So I closed that with a .100" sheet aluminum adhesive and many pop rivets. Then I wanted to be able to fold down the rear seat for looks and so I have flat parcel shelf but I didn't want to eliminate the seat just in case I needed it. I have some plastic surrounds for those clasps on the back panel now.




This better suits my application. Total time? what size rivits did you use? I always seem to jack them up
 

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Potato
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1,159 Posts
Discussion Starter #12




Not the greatest, there taken by my phone. You will notice the bolts, only thing I would change is they would be black.
Hey you mind posting the dementions. I have the MDF just wondering if there was any hiccups you had to deal with
 

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Potato
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Discussion Starter #14
steeda has a much cheaper x brace. $300 iirc.
AND IT LOOKS SICK.. however I like the idea of 25$ in materials and 275 toward go fast parts lol.
 

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Potato
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Discussion Starter #16
I pulled the seats out and I can def hear more road and drivetrain noise. Still waiting on measurements so I can cut the mdf board.
 

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Potato
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Discussion Starter #18
ufc94 DEMENTIONS!!!!!! PLEASE!
 

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Roush Dude
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50 Posts
ufc94 DEMENTIONS!!!!!! PLEASE!
Come on man... You have your seat out. Get out there with a tape measure and cardboard and get the dimensions, transfer them to the cardboard, rough cut the cardboard, find out what you need to fine tune. Once you're happy just trace it on the final material you are going to use.
 
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