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As of today, this '78 Ranchero is officially unofficially mine. Already worked out some electrical issues, bad grounds, etc. It now cranks, has low beams, 3/4 of the high beams, brake lights, all 4 turn signals, variable windshield wipers, variable speed blower motor, and power to the radio. Replaced dizzy cap adaptor and dizzy cap, need a new rotor button and run the spark plug wires and hopefully I'll have spark now. Then just need to sort out fuel (wire wheeled the tank today, found dozens of little holes) and hopefully it'll fire up. After that just carb hooking upping and patch a brake line a bit under the MC...bleed brakes and see how she drives. I suspect there may be a crack in the radiator endtank but since it's copper, I should be able to solder it up.

I started a new job and this thing was sitting right in the middle of the shop. Apparently it has been there for years. $400 poorer and I'm the excited owner of this old cartruckthing. Plan is to use it to haul parts, hopefully tow the Mustang to the track, etc. Has A/C and power steering, as well as windshield wipers. All the Mustang has is power steering and even that will be removed when I get a chance :lol

2 owner (first owner donated it, making the school I'm working at the 2nd owners--and they didn't take such great care of it. As far as I can tell it only has 40k miles on it. Carb'd 302, automatic, an has a glovebox full of papers for the car! Interior will clean up nice. Few tears in the seat and a crack in the dashpad but otherwise is fairly clean for its age. Unfortunately, the school has lost the title. I suspect I'm going to have to fight the DMV for that






 

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It has a 302? Huh. I thought all the late '70s Rancheros were M-block powered.

Good find. I'd like to pick up a Fairlane Ranchero at some point. Drop it ever-so-slightly, rattle-can it black, get some steelies, electronic cut-outs, limo-tint it, and scare little old ladies.
 

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That was my idea arummel you lucky.:banghead:

It's a nice little truck I wish I could find one as good as yours good luck man
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It has a 302? Huh. I thought all the late '70s Rancheros were M-block powered.

Good find. I'd like to pick up a Fairlane Ranchero at some point. Drop it ever-so-slightly, rattle-can it black, get some steelies, electronic cut-outs, limo-tint it, and scare little old ladies.
There were about half a dozen options ranging from the 250ci I6 all the way up to the 7.5L 460. I'd rather have anything but the 302 (even the I6...would be awesome with fuel injection and a turbo), the 302 is just too much on the BTDT side of things for my liking, although this is my first foray into carbs.
 

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There were about half a dozen options ranging from the 250ci I6 all the way up to the 7.5L 460. I'd rather have anything but the 302 (even the I6...would be awesome with fuel injection and a turbo), the 302 is just too much on the BTDT side of things for my liking, although this is my first foray into carbs.
Well, being carbureted, it should be trivial to swap it out for a 351W. Or is that still too BTDT?
 

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I'm considering a 351W. I know a guy around here who had done some work on one, put 15k miles on it, and set the car on fire. Pulled the motor and has had it sitting in his garage for years. A 351W would be less on the side of BTDT, but a big block would still be cool. Or maybe I'll just be that asshole that puts a 2.3t in a '78 Ranchero :shiftyeyes
 

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Or maybe I'll just be that asshole that puts a 2.3t in a '78 Ranchero :shiftyeyes
I know you're kidding, but not nearly enough motor.

Were I in your shoes, I would do a 400M with the Trick Flow Cleveland heads. You should be able to find a 400 for free-fifty, set of Clevelands would have that thing screamin'. My father has a 351M with Cleveland heads and that thing pulls harder than any 351M has a right to. I can only imagine a 400 would be that much better.
 

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Eh. The money is still going to the 4bangracestang, I just wanna get this turd up and running. Trans fluid is nice and juicy red. Got all but 2 connectors under the hood figured out and hooked up. Got the correct rotor button, will put that on and add spark wires and see if I get spark maybe on sunday/monday. Tomorrow is for working on the racecar...hope get get to run the 3" piping for the new front mount.

There's some kind of vacuum can actuator thing on the drivers side next to the carb. Looks like it's supposed to have some kind of pullchain attached from that to I presume somewhere on the carb. Don't suppose anyone knows where that goes?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just got her fired up! Ran fine, sounded good, but it was being bottle fed starting fluid. Still counts, right? Just need to get a tank and hook it up and she should run of her own accord! Then just need to check That radiator and the brakes and she should be good to go!
 

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Just rigged in a line to the fuel pump feeding out of a little 1gal can. Fuel surging up out of the carb. Aaaaand here's where I kick myself for knowing absolutely nothing about the workings of a carb. This carb was supposed to have been rebuilt :(
 

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Just rigged in a line to the fuel pump feeding out of a little 1gal can. Fuel surging up out of the carb. Aaaaand here's where I kick myself for knowing absolutely nothing about the workings of a carb. This carb was supposed to have been rebuilt :(
I'm no expert, I've rebuilt some Toyota/Aisin carbs and a Holley.

Are you feeding it with a mechanical or electric fuel pump? Carbs only want something like 6-8 psi, most electric pumps push closer to 40.

Does it have windows so you can see the fuel level in the bowls? The floats might be set too high. There should be a float adjustment screw.

There should also be two other set screws; one for idle, and one for mixture. The mixture screw is capped/sealed on emissions-compliant cars, but if yours isn't, it might be off and causing it push too much fuel.

If you're going to be playing with this one a bit, it's probably worth your time to get a half-way decent vacuum gauge. The old hot-rod trick for mixture is that you set the idle where you want it, then adjust the mixture until you get maximum vacuum. You may have to readjust the idle a few times while you do that, as adjusting the mixture can change the idle.

You can also just chuck the stock carb and go get a new edelbrock. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I just want the ****er to run right now. Mechanical pump. I took carb off and checked, don't see any adjustment, nor do I see any reason why the float shouldn't work. The mix screws shouldn't matter at this stage, it's pushing up out of the bowl.
 

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I just want the ****er to run right now. Mechanical pump. I took carb off and checked, don't see any adjustment, nor do I see any reason why the float shouldn't work. The mix screws shouldn't matter at this stage, it's pushing up out of the bowl.
Well, then maybe the float isn't doing it's job of shutting off the fuel supply, or that shutoff point isn't working.

Like I said, I'm no expert, just figured I could throw some things out there that might be the issue :sorry
 

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Discussion Starter #14
As far as I can tell it has to be float related. But, when I cracked open the carb it wasn't stuck or anything. As far as I can tell nothing was wrong with it. :computer:
 

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Needle valves
:pics
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Bought a GP Sorensen carb repair kit for $19. Luckily it comes with instructions :lol

Need to put a new starter in the 'stang today first. Made my commute on a pop start :(
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Replaced the needle, the valve-y thing the needle goes into (cap?), and all the spring things. Put carb back on, it fired up, ran for like 10sec (starting fluid again), then started pushing fuel up the vents out of the bowl again :computer:

Is there any way the float itself went bad maybe? :headscratcher:
 
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