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Discussion Starter #1
Sup guys. So I just bought/stole this amazing '01 mustang GT conv. that's pushing 500 horses and has nitrous in case i feel compelled to hit 650, only thing is not one week into hunting for rice...... the tranny takes a dive on me. Just so you guys don't start ranting on how i got ripped, here's what this thing came like:
vortech T-trim pushing 10 psi
forged bottom end
rebuilt engine
comp cams
mach 1 intake
equal length headers
NX nitrous system w/ 150 shot solenoids
all this for 9k

the list goes on and on. back to the subject, i owned an '03 auto GT who's tranny also took a dive on me so i rebuilt it and its acting like it wants to dive AGAIN... i'm at a loss for words, 2 Mustangs and 2 dead trannies... what auto tranny is rated for 800 hp or can at least withstand this much muscle? i want something that i don't have to worry about. i rather worry about who's next rather than is my tranny going. Sorry but i'm keeping it auto b/c this car will go back to the east coast and i HATE the 95. Help me out guys, i need to put some ricers in their place! thanks in advance.

ps: keep it as cheap as possible :eek:
 

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BYAHHHH!
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Home

call these guys
 

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BYAHHHH!
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or lentech auto...but try SilverFox first
 

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Mach 1 intake?

That caught my eye. Bullitt intake maybe but not Mach 1. That's basically a Cobra eng. Intake won't interchange. as far as the trans goes there is just no way to do a good strong auto on the cheap. A good all stock rebuild will set you back $1500 min and that is if you remove the trans. There are plenty of good trans shops out there. Here are a few online that have 4R70W's ready to goe.PerformaBuilt There is also these guys:Ford-AODE.com the Ultimate AODE / 4R70W Performance Transmission Website Check out this info. If you want to put that kind of power through an auto trans on a regular basis there really is no cheap way to do it. I am a fan of autos my 2000 GT conv is an auto and I would have it no other way. Good luck and Semper Fi.
 

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Do you manually shift or manually down shift while driving??? Do you go WOT in O/D....if you do any of these you will toast your tranny......O/D just use for cruising only....don't punch it on the freeway doing 70.....stay in drive or just press the O/D button if you want to move out.......and manually shifting will tear up the Valve Body if it isn't a manual V/B.......stay away from this and you will have a tranny last forever...

"ED"
 

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Do you manually shift or manually down shift while driving??? Do you go WOT in O/D....if you do any of these you will toast your tranny......O/D just use for cruising only....don't punch it on the freeway doing 70.....stay in drive or just press the O/D button if you want to move out.......and manually shifting will tear up the Valve Body if it isn't a manual V/B.......stay away from this and you will have a tranny last forever...

"ED"
ED knows what he's talking about sounds to me. Just leave it in Dr and when your on it or around town shut off the OD. Heat is the biggest killer of autos. A cooler is a must if you plan on having your foot into on a reg basis. I went with a deep aluminum finned pan that adds a few qts to the trans capacity. A well built and cooled auto trans will give you many miles of rice trashing pleasure.
 

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ps: keep it as cheap as possible :eek:[/QUOTE]


that's your biggest problem, can't cheap out on an auto. that being said, a very mild 4r70w (the trans in your car) can handle way more power than your car has, I'd look into your driving style & habbit's (especially since this is the third one that's blown up on you).
 

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BYAHHHH!
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i down shift at 40....it seems fine. but usually 30 or below
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I keep it in drive and don't touch it. what i'm hearing is if i'm cruising and need to punch it, turn off the OD? I thought it was opposite? keep it off while fartin around and back on when i punch it.

The transmission actually came with an intercooler on it but i'm gonna take a look into all this, see if it's mounted right, and get a bigger pan. the owner lived in vegas so i'm thinking that took a toll on it. he also had the car tuned at an LS1 shop so i'm thinking that couldn't help either. the car runs perfectly but the trans is slush. i think it could run cooler. thanks for the suggestions, i've just never heard of transmissions going out like they have on me and i don't drive any different then some of my friends.

For clarification: its a Mach 1 functional hood.
 

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it doesnt matter if it is in OD or not when you go WOT. the tranny automatically disengages OD when the gas is increased.

OP, did you put it in neutral, rev it up, then drop it into drive (N-bomb)?
 

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MM's Ford Truck Guy
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you might wanna check the cooler for particles of metal and such cause there is alot of vehicals that get brand new transmissions and start doing the same stuff just a lil bit down the road because of the tranny cooler has metal shavings in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I never bomb it... that requires deep pockets ha

so your saying the intercooler could've actually caused this problem? is it possible to have a small thing wrong with a transmission or if it's not engauging your F'ed?
 

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MM's Ford Truck Guy
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for one its a trans cooler not a intercooler just thought id through that in there and for the rest of it im not saying it did cause it i said it might have because ive seen vehicals in the past have that problem and how small is the problem exactlly like whats it doing?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
damn, thanks for throwing it in there lol (TV); the other day i was driving it around, stopped for 20 mins, came back out and got only an 1/8 mile when i went to go from a stop it just revved like i had it in nuetral. I put it in 2nd, and slowly gassed again.. it sputtered but never caught. Nothing in 1st, just more revving. So i've let it sit since last Thursday and have started it up and it hooked up in drive today but i'm not risking it dying half way to a shop. Any possible common problem?
 
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