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Discussion Starter #1
OK I need some help here guys. When I bought my 96 GT it had a full PI swap and some other mods. Well he had a "Saleen" rear end with 3.55 gears that I had him throw in with the deal. Last weekend I decided to swap the rear end. Everything bolted up but the brakes.... I was going to use the stockers but the brake bracket bolt holes were farther apart.

He also gave me the calipers, rotors, and pads. What I found out is the rear end is from a Saleen just a 1989 Saleen. It is the welded tube axle and the brakes are the same as a 1989 Lincoln mark 7.

Now the problem is they are 11.3" brakes. When I bled them my brake pedal feels like crap but It still locks up at the end of the pedal. But the pedal is very soft to push.

Is this because my master cylinder is to small for the bigger rear brakes now?
Is there a better one I can get?

Or do I need to try and bleed the brakes more?

And the park brake setup is different so I have to figure that out to.
Thanks

Oh yea and when I locked them up the right front made a loud bang....start to drive again and another loud bang...any thoughts on what that can be?

Thanks sorry for the long post. I can take pics of the brakes if you like.
 

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Did you follow the right order for bleeding the brakes? That's honestly the only thing that I can think of at the moment. But it is also late.


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Discussion Starter #3
Just rebled them...starting from rear left. Got some air out of the right rear.
But pedal feel sucks. it stops fine but the pedal is super soft.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Now I don't have the park brake hooked up....should there always be a little tension from the park brake spring?
 

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ExPeNsIvE HoBbY
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Now I don't have the park brake hooked up....should there always be a little tension from the park brake spring?
I didn't run a parking brake for a year and a half on my 2000 stang and it made no difference in braking performance or feel.

It did however heat up my driver side rear caliper and rotor super hot the first time I drove it, but then it was fine. But I believe when I cranked on the e-brake arm on the caliper it was cammed over to hard until it got some slack to swing.

It's all better now.

Is there a difference on the actual caliper piston size on that new rear setup?


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WOT Junkie
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You said you started at the rear left. You actually need to start at the rear right. Start at the farthest away from the master cylinder. As for the noises, make sure everything is bolted up right and properly torqued. Brackets, calipers, lugs.

The only thing that'd make the pedal feel soft is either a leak or air in the system somewhere.
 

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If pedal is soft you have air in the lines still. Only trick besides a power bleeder I can tell you to try is to jack up the front of the car as high as possible and rebleed the rears. Steep inclined driveway will work too. Somewhere in a bend you have air. If you push the pedal down till it gets hard and hold it there and wait.(assuming you dont bottom out) If it stays you dont have a line leak. I still think you have air in the lines though.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Also a long piece of clear tubing(like the air pump line for aquariums) into a bottle, filled halfway with brake fluid, will keep air from re-entering the brake lines.


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Thats what I did the last time I bled them. I started from the passanger rear. I made sure there were no bubbles in the tube at all.
 

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Watch n learn
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That rear should be narrower than your original one, I'd swap it back if it was me.
As far as the caliper issue goes, you should be able to pull the axles and swap over all your mount brackets so you can use your original brake setup.
I sounds like you have now than one problem though, the rear must have air somewhere, did the master go dry? Have you tried gravity bleeding it? Are the caliper a on the right sides? Bleeder should be at the top. You also must have something loose or moving in the front to be causing your noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That rear should be narrower than your original one, I'd swap it back if it was me.
As far as the caliper issue goes, you should be able to pull the axles and swap over all your mount brackets so you can use your original brake setup.
I sounds like you have now than one problem though, the rear must have air somewhere, did the master go dry? Have you tried gravity bleeding it? Are the caliper a on the right sides? Bleeder should be at the top. You also must have something loose or moving in the front to be causing your noise.
UUUMMMM Your sure the bleeder has to be on the top...if so I had a major screw up and the bleeders are on the bottom. Maybe this is the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Absolutely... Can't bleed air out if the air is at a higher level than it's exit point.
Yea I was thinking about that this morning.....im an idiot. This is how
you learn by screwing up. Hopefully this weekend I will have time to swap everything back over the correct way.
 

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K, I was sure they were different but if you checked then its all good. Id put the original brakes on though, it's pretty easy to just swap over the mount brackets, just need to pull the axles and it's 4 bolts a side, then you can run your stock calipers /rotors and e-brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just wanted to give an Update......I swapped the calipers to the coorect sides. The Brakes are AWESOME NOW!!!!! I made some brackets because the brake cables are to long. Here are some pics.....just need som long springs to keep tention on them so the dang brake light will stop flickering.

The brakes are a lot bigger then stock.







 

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Discussion Starter #20
The cable housing needs to be secured, unless you have it secured somehow and I can't see it.
Not perminant but I have some zip ties holding it right now lol.

This weekend I will have some more time to make a mount to hold the cable in
and put sime springs in to hold the park brake all the way off.

Im just happy the brakes feel great now.
 
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