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Discussion Starter #1
ok here we go.as of now i have a 07 gt/cs with the following mods:

airaid cai
bbk longtubes with o/r x
bama 93 hybrid tune
bassani axle backs (i know,no hp gain there but throwing it in anyways)

so with these mods ive read i should have from 290whp to 305whp

im running 235/55/18 on michelin pilot a/s plus all around and they are spinning like crazy so i def need to upgrade.

im thinking if i get a set of 18/10 wheels on the rear and 18/9 on the front i could run 285/40/18 nitto nt555 on the back and nt555 255/45/18 on the front and have much improved grip on the track and street driving.my thought is with the little hp i have do i really need a set of dr's on the back? this is my dd so with dr's i would have a rough go in the rain so it dont make much sence to me now.

in the distant future i plan on adding a stall converter,gears and possibly a blower and then yes,i think the dr's would be best for sure with that setup.

how well will the nt555 treat me with my current setup?

also is my guess correct on the whp i have now at 290 to 305 with current mods?
 

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I don't think tires are an issue with 300RWHP. You might want to either get some LCAs and an UCA and better struts/shocks. 235 is plenty of tire if you are driving aggressive, not driving dumb like holding it at 4k RPM and dumping the clutch or in 1st or 2nd gear wide open around a corner like a nut case. But in those scenarios I doubt ANY tire would help. I seriously think a little bit of suspension work would help your cause a lot more than dumping a chunk of change on wheels and tires. Unless you are secretly wanting to get wheels just for appearance adjustment and didn't mention it. Then by all means, go spend 1200-1500 on wheels and tires, but I don't think that's necessary yet, meaning you're planning in the distant future for more power. Wait until your tires are in need of replacement. I know that my 235s do just fine if I roll into it off the line and work my way up to wide open, even shifting into second abruptly my car won't break traction, and I have 4.10s. But I credit the LCAs and UCA.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i have an auto hence the stall converter coming soon,my problem now is my 60 times,they are horrible
 

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I don't see why you feel that DR's are too much tire. If you are spinning your tires you are leaving power on the table. I have learned that you should build from the ground up. Tires and suspension first. DR's along with some stiffening of the suspension should help your 60's a bunch. But then again, daily driving on DR's can Be quite a chore when it rains. I used to run DR's with not that much more bolted to my car than you. If you're going to go with gears and a converer soon, you might as well upgrade that stuff now. Why get tires for your current power level if you are planning to get more torque to the tires in thennear future?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
the other mods are distant future.the nt555 will be worn by the time i get those mods.another thing that worries me is i hear drag radials really screw up the drivetrain from launching hard.my plan will be to get another set of wheels for the drag radials so i can drive in bad weather with the nt555 and if its nice and i wanna have more fun ill throw on the nitto nt55r's.that way im not constantly putting pressure on the tranny from the radials all the time.this car has to last me at least 7 years and hopefully more
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i do plan on getting lowering springs and lca's before the blower so i will have a better base by then to help out,i guess i shoulda edited that first post so im not post whoring.whoops! mu bad!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I don't see why you feel that DR's are too much tire. If you are spinning your tires you are leaving power on the table. I have learned that you should build from the ground up. Tires and suspension first. DR's along with some stiffening of the suspension should help your 60's a bunch. But then again, daily driving on DR's can Be quite a chore when it rains. I used to run DR's with not that much more bolted to my car than you. If you're going to go with gears and a converer soon, you might as well upgrade that stuff now. Why get tires for your current power level if you are planning to get more torque to the tires in thennear future?
ima threadjack my own post here so here we go,to the bossman:how hard was it to put on those flush mounted window louvers? looks like a pain in the assholes!
 

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Nittos are good actually, get your self LCA with relocation bracket, you will feel the difference. other suspension upgrades (PHB UCA struts shock etc..) are great for cornering, but LCA's are enough for straight lines and DD. Choose your tires very well.
 

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ok here we go.as of now i have a 07 gt/cs with the following mods:

airaid cai
bbk longtubes with o/r x
bama 93 hybrid tune
bassani axle backs (i know,no hp gain there but throwing it in anyways)

so with these mods ive read i should have from 290whp to 305whp

im running 235/55/18 on michelin pilot a/s plus all around and they are spinning like crazy so i def need to upgrade.

im thinking if i get a set of 18/10 wheels on the rear and 18/9 on the front i could run 285/40/18 nitto nt555 on the back and nt555 255/45/18 on the front and have much improved grip on the track and street driving.my thought is with the little hp i have do i really need a set of dr's on the back? this is my dd so with dr's i would have a rough go in the rain so it dont make much sence to me now.

in the distant future i plan on adding a stall converter,gears and possibly a blower and then yes,i think the dr's would be best for sure with that setup.

how well will the nt555 treat me with my current setup?

also is my guess correct on the whp i have now at 290 to 305 with current mods?
Butters,

The stock 235/55 is a really skinny tire, also the fact that it's an all season tire doesn't help! With a bolt on 3V GT you'll easily spin those tires through 1st and 2nd. I agree that you may not need a radial just yet, but a 18x9/10 wheel and tire combo paired up with a set of Nitto NT555's will definitely help you hook!

I agree with everyone else that a set of Springs and LCA's will also help you hook and go!

I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any questions or need some further assistance. Our Mustang Experts are here Monday-Friday from 9AM-9PM EST and Saturdays from 9AM-5:30PM EST. If you want to hit them up, their number is 866.727.1266.

-Dan
 

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ima threadjack my own post here so here we go,to the bossman:how hard was it to put on those flush mounted window louvers? looks like a pain in the assholes!
No, they're real easy. Not as easy as your stick on type louvers, but real easy.
Tape of the area around the window, so you don't scratch the paint. Use a standard windshield removal kit. You know, the piano wire with handles on the ends. Run that around the window to cut through the silicone sealant. Window pops out. Trim excess sealant from widow frame leaving a thin layer. This helps the new sealant you're going to apply stick better. Put a thick bead of windshield adhesive/sealant around the frame with a caulking gun. Place the louvers in the frame, press it in even against the adhesive. I used matchbooks as spacers around the window so that the gap was even. Let it cure overnight and hit it with a hose to check for leaks. You're done. There are a couple of interior trim panels that you have to remove but they pretty much just pop off.
 

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FBGM
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Boss its just one of the those consuming things right not that difficult.
 

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I don't understand why people have issues with 3.55's and being N/A at roughly 300 whp (give or take 10whp). I have nitto 850's that the PO put on. I have to either dump the clutch or seriously get on it to break them loose. I have basically the same exact mods you do, but I guess the downshifting of an automatic could account for some spinning due to the shock of the downshift.
 

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Boss its just one of the those consuming things right not that difficult.

Yep. Takes about 2 hours and another person to get the side window removed.
 

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gtscrewd
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i put mt et streets 265 40 18 on my factory wheels and it was e great set up they were a bit beefier and did not bulge much at all
 

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FBGM
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I don't understand why people have issues with 3.55's and being N/A at roughly 300 whp (give or take 10whp). I have nitto 850's that the PO put on. I have to either dump the clutch or seriously get on it to break them loose. I have basically the same exact mods you do, but I guess the downshifting of an automatic could account for some spinning due to the shock of the downshift.
Same I have 3.55s and Im boosted, if I want to break the tires loose I can but If I want some nice smooth fast acceleration from a stop, no problem either.
 

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nt555's are good tires, but they don't hook. springs won't help you hook either. The lower you make the car, the worse it is at hooking. If you wan't to hook better, you'll need drag radials and lca's. a wide wheel will increase contact patch which will increase hooking, but still won't help much on street tires.
 
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