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Do you guys think upgrading to these rotors front and back would make any difference in my car's braking abilities.I have seen a set that fits stock wheels and thinking of getting them only they will serve some purpose.
 

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Do you guys think upgrading to these rotors front and back would make any difference in my car's braking abilities.I have seen a set that fits stock wheels and thinking of getting them only they will serve some purpose.
I just installed mine 4 days ago and there amazing I got both Sets for 300 and I'm so happy with them
 

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Blank rotors will give you better braking (more surface area to provide friction) and better heat dissipation (more material to absorb the heat produced while braking). Best thing to do to upgrade brakes if your not going to a bigger rotor, is some stainless brake lines for a firmer feel, and upgrade the pads.
 

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I was having huge problems with my stock rotors overheating and warping and then the fact that they wouldn't stop very well. I switched the front rotors to the bear slotted and drilled and it helped soooo much. All those problems went away.
 

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So you're saying stock is better get better pads like hawk and ss lines.
Well yes and no. Some harder ceramic pads my be a little rough on your rotors. Depending on what kind of pads you get you may want to upgrade your rotors too. All I'm saying is if you get blank rotors they will perform better than drilled and slotted rotors for most applications. Along with new lines and pads you shouldn't need more than that unless you are road racing.
 

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I was having huge problems with my stock rotors overheating and warping and then the fact that they wouldn't stop very well. I switched the front rotors to the bear slotted and drilled and it helped soooo much. All those problems went away.
If you were having over heating problems, which I doubt, then you are probobly going to have issues with the cross drilled rotors. They will actually get hotter than blank rotors and instead of warping they will crack. Most people tend to equate pedal fade to the rotors getting too hot, but it is actually the fluid getting too hot along with mushy brake lines. Trust me, the only advantage to cross drilled rotors is weight loss and less rotational mass. You are probably experience better braking due to the new rotors. If you take two rotors from the same company, one blank, and one drilled. The blank ones will stop better and not get as hot. There is no "cooling" advantage to cross drilled, actually the opposite happens when you remove mass from the rotor.
 

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I just recently installed all 4 drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads and they are amazing.. stopping power is so much better and i would know i have to dodge old people daily down in south florida. They are overall way smoother and more powerful even under extreme wet conditions.
Here are some pictures they look great aswell

 

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So whats the point of the slotts and drills if not to cool.
At one time they used to help expel gases away from the brake pads, but nobody makes brake pads that way anymore. They are a hold over from another era. They look cool though. Slots were basically the same thing. They say now that slotted rotors will help wipe any debris off of the pads that may gather there. I don't know how much debris you can actually get between your pads and rotors but that's what they say.

I copied this post from another thread.


Quote: 07 Boss, Nov. 26, 2009

If you really warped your rotors from heat I would suggest not getting cross drilled rotors. If you drive hard enough where you built up enough heat to warp your rotors than cross drilled will never hold up to that kind of abuse. You will definitely run into cracking issues around the holes. The only exception to that is if you can find a set of rotors that are cast with the holes (Porcshe does this) instead of having the holes drilled after it is cast. Without getting into too much detail about metalurgy, When you form metal, the molecular bonds will align themselves very strongly by themselves. So when you cast it with the holes already in it the bonds around the holes are naturally strong and unbroken. When you drill holes into a cast piece the edges of these holes are now made up of broken molecular bonds and are a weak point in the metal. That is why stressed cross drilled rotors will tend to start cracking around the holes first. There is no advantage with cross drilled vs. slotted and/or dimpled rotors unless you are thinking of saving weight and reducing rotational mass which I think is pretty minimal and not worth it. Blank rotors are actually going to be better for heat dissapation (again there is a scientific explanation which I won't get into) and provide more surface area for your brake pads to grab. The one benefit to dimples and/or slotted rotors is that they will tend to scrap any particals or debris that may build up on your pads, and again, minimal gains.
Now don't get me wrong, I have dimpled and slotted rotors on my car, but that's more for cool looks than performance. I'm just laying out the facts for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah i guess it makes sense,still they do look cool.I wonder i mercedes does the same cause their AMG has some rotors and calipers on those suckers.Signs of warped rotors,give me a few.What about brown brake fluid that mean it is contaminated or needs to be changed.
 

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I would like a brake kit with more pistons(4-6) and slotted rotors....that will clear the stock bullitt rims........anyone for reps?
 

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I just recently installed all 4 drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads and they are amazing.. stopping power is so much better and i would know i have to dodge old people daily down in south florida. They are overall way smoother and more powerful even under extreme wet conditions.
I guarantee you 100% of the difference in braking power was due to your new pads, not because of the rotors.

As was said, slotted/cross-drilled rotors are artifacts of a time when brake pads used to "gas off" when they got hot. The slots/holes gave that gas someplace to vent, rather than building up between the pad and rotor face.

If you're concerned about your brakes getting too hot, first get good race quality pads (I suggest Porterfield's R4-S compound for a street car), then swap to at least a DOT 4 fluid, if not a full sunthetic DOT5 or DOT6. If that's not enough heat protection, then I'd set up one of the brake venting systems. Only if that didn't work would I go to a spend the money on a larger brake setup.
 
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