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Discussion Starter #1
so here real soon i want to get gears, i was going to go ahead and do it, but..... i want the 8.8 cause it will acutally save me money and i will hav posi. :yes henc the saving money part lol, i wont have to buy a diff. so i can just buy gears. I have 95 with the 7.5 rearend, do i need the Gt drive shaft? and whats everthing i have to do?
 

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MOAR BOOST
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9,163 Posts
driveshaft is the same.
Doing the swap basically consists of
- unbolt driveshaft
- unbolt upper control arms
- unbolt lower control arms
- pull the rear end out
- put the 8.8 in and bolt everything up

helps to have a friend or two

There is a good chance that you won't be able to get the old lower control arms off of the 7.5 housing though.
 

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2013 5.0
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2,983 Posts
Give me till the end of the week and I'll do a write-up on it..

When you start this, put the car on jack stands. I put the jack stands under the LCA so the spring wouldn't be trying to send the LCA down to the ground. Then put your jack under the pumpkin of the rear end and jack it up to provide some support for when you release all the bolts.

Here is a list of everything you need to remove.
5 Lug nuts to remove the wheel.
4 bolts to remove the brake calipers

2 nuts to remove the c-clamp caliper brace


3 bolts to remove the brake dust cover



1 bolt to remove the ABS sensor


Make it easy on yourself and remove the Bolts for the Brake Line/Rear Sway bar from the LCA


Remove the LCA bolt (covered in PB Blaster) and Shock Bolt (Shiny Silver color).


Remove the UCA bolt


Put all items in Zip lock bags, clearly labeling them


Repeat for the Opposite side.

Lower the jack holding the rear end.

Insert new rear end and repeat the entire process in reverse.

 

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234 Posts
^^^ +1
Thanks for the run through man! I'm also about to do this myself :)
EDIT: Also note since you have a 95 you can just replace the speedo gear instead of reprogramming it after you finish the conversion.

 

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168 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
driveshaft is the same.
Doing the swap basically consists of
- unbolt driveshaft
- unbolt upper control arms
- unbolt lower control arms
- pull the rear end out
- put the 8.8 in and bolt everything up

helps to have a friend or two

There is a good chance that you won't be able to get the old lower control arms off of the 7.5 housing though.
yeah i remember how rusted they were when i was putting in the springs, sounds simple lol
 

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168 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
^^^ +1
Thanks for the run through man! I'm also about to do this myself :)
EDIT: Also note since you have a 95 you can just replace the speedo gear instead of reprogramming it after you finish the conversion.

sweet this is so easy as hell lol...
 

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168 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Give me till the end of the week and I'll do a write-up on it..

When you start this, put the car on jack stands. I put the jack stands under the LCA so the spring wouldn't be trying to send the LCA down to the ground. Then put your jack under the pumpkin of the rear end and jack it up to provide some support for when you release all the bolts.

Here is a list of everything you need to remove.
5 Lug nuts to remove the wheel.
4 bolts to remove the brake calipers

2 nuts to remove the c-clamp caliper brace


3 bolts to remove the brake dust cover



1 bolt to remove the ABS sensor


Make it easy on yourself and remove the Bolts for the Brake Line/Rear Sway bar from the LCA


Remove the LCA bolt (covered in PB Blaster) and Shock Bolt (Shiny Silver color).


Remove the UCA bolt


Put all items in Zip lock bags, clearly labeling them


Repeat for the Opposite side.

Lower the jack holding the rear end.

Insert new rear end and repeat the entire process in reverse.

hey thanks for the pics!! helps alot!
 

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╚⊙ ⊙╝
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I did this swap by myself in my garage and the hardest part was getting the lower lca bolts out. I had to cut them rendering the old lca bushings useless but I didn't care since I had a set of MM lcas to put in.

Only other thing that can be a little hard is getting the driveshaft bolts off if you don't have an impact. I had a gun but my compressor couldn't put out enough psi to crack them loose. I ended up using a 2 foot breaker bar and on 1 or 2 of the bolts I had to use a small floor jack to get enough torque on the bar.

Bottom line is the more winters the car had been driven (11 for mine) the more rusted and difficult it will be.


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App
 

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╚⊙ ⊙╝
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I just used the engine hoist to get it off the back of the truck, and I was also by myself. But it did make the process alot easier to say the least.
i picked mine up 3 hours away in the trunk/ back seat of the stang

took 2 guys to put it in a 2 to get it out

didnt have my truck back then

:lol
 

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Fee Fie Foe Fum
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1,724 Posts
My solo rip at the swap... got plenty of help from the guys on here during my swap
1354805143345.jpg
 

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Fee Fie Foe Fum
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1,724 Posts
Yes be sure and take that off unneeded weight..i didnt know what I was so I just pulled it off and oainted all over again..figured if I had hop id worry about it later.
 

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i picked mine up 3 hours away in the trunk/ back seat of the stang

took 2 guys to put it in a 2 to get it out

didnt have my truck back then

:lol
Haha!! I did the same exact thing when I first got mine a couple weeks back. Don't ask me how I got it in there :facepalm: I don't own a truck unfortunately lol I took it to work still in my trunk partially, got it out, inspected it, resealed, and relubed (might as well since it was out)
I borrowed my bosses truck to get it home the next day :lol
 
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