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Discussion Starter #1
Most of my fuel system has been purchased , aeromotive a 1000 external pump, Lmr sump, aeromotive 100micron pre filter , 10 micron post filter, aeromotive fuel pump controller, msd dis- tach driver.I'm going to be solid mounting the filters to the pump and I believe I have all the fittings need from the sump forward figured out but not purchased yet. I'm not real sure how I want to plumb the regulator also aeromotive 13109. I'd like to have all the fittings figured out so I can order the lines and fittings at the same time any help would be great thanks .
 

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. . .I'm going to be solid mounting the filters to the pump . . .
I'm admittedly on the careful side but if you mean the filters inlets are directly connected to the pumps outlets, since there is no give in the system I'd be worried that over time the vibration from the pump might crack the filters or their fittings.

I'd lean to use at least short sections of hose to physically isolate the filters from the pump.

But I don't know, maybe that's being too careful but it can't hurt.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes direct mount to pump I'm not sure about any issues maybe some people will chime in if they mounted them like this I seen some pics but haven't heard of any issues.
 

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I have my filters mounted directly to my pumps. It's a pretty common practice because it aids in mounting everything easily. The main disadvantage is that you are only filtering the pump; none of the 20+ feet of feed line after the pump gets a filter. So all of the rubber particulate or anything else that could wear off from inside there goes directly to your regulator and rails.

If I had it to do again, I would mount your large 100 micron pre-filter directly to the pump. Then mount your smaller 10 micron filter pretty far downstream again the body, or maybe tucked up underneath a flsfc. Lots of people mount their directly to the pump with no issues, but what I described is the right way to do it technically.

Make sure you mount the pump below the sump. I have a Magnafuel pump that is supposed to be self priming (whereas your A1000 is not), and it still is very unhappy being mounted a few inches above my sump. I'll have to relocate it eventually.

I would recommend mounting it to the front of the tank cover like so. Maybe get a thin piece of sheet metal to fit behind the cover to add reinforcement or something.


Also make sure you coat the inside of your tank after you weld in the sump. Those sumps are mild steel and will rust with time. I recommend the POR15 sealant kit. It's not cheap but it works very well.

As far as plumbing the regulator, here is what I did: run your feed line from the pump all the way up into the engine bay, then add a Y block. Run each line from the Y block up to the back of each rail, then add a 180* fitting on the front of each rail and run lines from them back to the regulator. Then run your return line back out the passenger fender along side your feed. This is called plumbing your rails in parallel and is probably the better method.

You can also do them in series, which is just one rail after another on the same feed then going back into your reg, but that can theoretically lead to pressure drops across the rails that could cause you problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok I bought the 2 overpriced coupler aeromotive fittings already but maybe I can send one back and mount the post filter upstream. I seen that way of plumbing the reg in parallel in the directions that came with it and the directions say that is the best method but i always see everyone just connect the one then the other so i wasnt sure.As long as I run -10 from sump to pump I should be fine with -8 to regulator ?? What power level would you have to be at to need -10 . thanks for the info

---------- Post added at 07:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:27 PM ----------

Also i want to run my return line back to the sump. I'm getting mixed reviews on this as some say you have to drop it in from the top but I will be using a fuel pump controller so not sure how much difference that will make I know I should have far less return fuel.
 

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If you already have the couplers, you can just attach the filters to your pump, it'll work. Just not ideal. I've found little pieces of rubber in my tank that got past the filters with mine like that.

Are you running pump gas? If so, -8an feed should be sufficient for anything you would every want to do with the car. I'd do a -8an return too if you haven't already.

Do not run your return line back to your sump, however. You will be cycling all that hot fuel back into the pump's intake, and you will vaporlock your pump very quickly driving in traffic. Put in a bulkhead fitting by the filler neck and attack your filler line there. I'd recommend getting it welded in, but here is mine for reference:

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes just pump gas might mix some 110 once in awhile but that's about it. I didn't think it would be an issue with the controller suppose to keep the fuel cooler and not barely cycle at low rpm and idle but I should probably just drop in from tank to be safe..

---------- Post added at 07:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:35 PM ----------

Did you use PTFE lines??
 

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Yes just pump gas might mix some 110 once in awhile but that's about it. I didn't think it would be an issue with the controller suppose to keep the fuel cooler and not barely cycle at low rpm and idle but I should probably just drop in from tank to be safe..

---------- Post added at 07:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:35 PM ----------

Did you use PTFE lines??
-8AN feed/return will be all you'll ever need then. 110 has roughly the same stoich point as pump gas so no problems there. The only way you'd ever run into issues is trying to run a fuel that takes a ton of volume, such as e85. Even then I think -8an would hold you into the 800+ range.

You definitely need to change your return location. The pump controller is a good idea, but it won't protect you if you are cycling all that hot fuel.

I did not use PTFE line. I used Redhorse line coated for e85. It was really expensive and I'm still not convinced it is going to hold up as well as PTFE would have. Just be warned that if you use PTFE line, you need special fittings for it. Its's good stuff though.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If you already have the couplers, you can just attach the filters to your pump, it'll work. Just not ideal. I've found little pieces of rubber in my tank that got past the filters with mine like that.

Are you running pump gas? If so, -8an feed should be sufficient for anything you would every want to do with the car. I'd do a -8an return too if you haven't already.

Do not run your return line back to your sump, however. You will be cycling all that hot fuel back into the pump's intake, and you will vaporlock your pump very quickly driving in traffic. Put in a bulkhead fitting by the filler neck and attack your filler line there. I'd recommend getting it welded in, but here is mine for reference:

My sump is welded in now looking at ordering the return fitting to tap into the tank. If I'm going to have it welded in I would need a steel fitting. Or I can use a anodized aluminum thread it on and use a fuel safe sealant around it? Trying to decide the best approach. If I went with a 3/4 npt female to 1/2 npt female steel to weld in then screw in the 8an to 1/2npt to it. How is yours attached in the pic?
 

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My sump is welded in now looking at ordering the return fitting to tap into the tank. If I'm going to have it welded in I would need a steel fitting. Or I can use a anodized aluminum thread it on and use a fuel safe sealant around it? Trying to decide the best approach. If I went with a 3/4 npt female to 1/2 npt female steel to weld in then screw in the 8an to 1/2npt to it. How is yours attached in the pic?
The tank is thin enough to where I would not try to thread anything in. I'd definitely recommend you welding a steel fitting in there. Whoever did your sump could add the fitting no problem.

Mine is a bulkhead fitting. It sandwiches the tank between two nylon washers, then has a nut on the back that tightens down. I'm very gun shy about it coming loose or leaking, I wouldn't recommend you go that route.
 

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Dont weld anything on that tank unless you pump carbon dioxide though it while welding or it will explode on you. Even if you rinse it out with water ETC the vapors will still explode.
 

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I filled mine with water for a day and let it soak, then dumped it. Then I filled it with Dawn and water for a day and let it soak, then dumped it. TIG'd my sump into place no problem the next day. :dunno
 

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Discussion Starter #14
We welded the sump last night. I drained it rinsed it out with dawn soapy water and let it sit for 2 weeks. The plastic basket did melt and is ruined so I'm hoping I don't need that for my fuel level sender to work?
 

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We welded the sump last night. I drained it rinsed it out with dawn soapy water and let it sit for 2 weeks. The plastic basket did melt and is ruined so I'm hoping I don't need that for my fuel level sender to work?
I don't even have the basket in my tank and my fuel level sender works
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have my filters mounted directly to my pumps. It's a pretty common practice because it aids in mounting everything easily. The main disadvantage is that you are only filtering the pump; none of the 20+ feet of feed line after the pump gets a filter. So all of the rubber particulate or anything else that could wear off from inside there goes directly to your regulator and rails.

If I had it to do again, I would mount your large 100 micron pre-filter directly to the pump. Then mount your smaller 10 micron filter pretty far downstream again the body, or maybe tucked up underneath a flsfc. Lots of people mount their directly to the pump with no issues, but what I described is the right way to do it technically.

Make sure you mount the pump below the sump. I have a Magnafuel pump that is supposed to be self priming (whereas your A1000 is not), and it still is very unhappy being mounted a few inches above my sump. I'll have to relocate it eventually.

I would recommend mounting it to the front of the tank cover like so. Maybe get a thin piece of sheet metal to fit behind the cover to add reinforcement or something.


Also make sure you coat the inside of your tank after you weld in the sump. Those sumps are mild steel and will rust with time. I recommend the POR15 sealant kit. It's not cheap but it works very well.

As far as plumbing the regulator, here is what I did: run your feed line from the pump all the way up into the engine bay, then add a Y block. Run each line from the Y block up to the back of each rail, then add a 180* fitting on the front of each rail and run lines from them back to the regulator. Then run your return line back out the passenger fender along side your feed. This is called plumbing your rails in parallel and is probably the better method.

You can also do them in series, which is just one rail after another on the same feed then going back into your reg, but that can theoretically lead to pressure drops across the rails that could cause you problems.
How much por15 should I order would 1 quart be enough?
 

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I have my return line going back to my sump tank. I haven't had any problems with my pump. I even drove my car for NC to tx with zero problems. I also have the pump controller as well.
 

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I have my return line going back to my sump tank. I haven't had any problems with my pump. I even drove my car for NC to tx with zero problems. I also have the pump controller as well.
My glenns sumped tank returns back to the sump also. With all the tanks glenns has made you would think if it was an issue he would have changed his setups.
 
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