Modded Mustang Forums banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
Joined
·
5,218 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I did the Big 3 upgrade tonight. It was more of a "something to do while drinking beer" Friday night project that cost me all of $20 for a kit off ebay. I opted for a 4GA wiring kit as I'm not running an insane sound system. Why did I do this? Recently I noticed the windows going up ever so slowly. I was wondering wtf is going on - maybe the motors were dying? I used to be a big audio guy back in the day and remembered this upgrade. I went ahead and performed it tonight.

I ran a power wire from the alternator to the battery. I ran a ground from the battery to one I created on the strut tower. I then ran a ground from the alternator mount to the same strut tower ground.

If you look at the stock wiring, the $20 kit I bought is leaps and bounds better then the floss sized wire from the factory. My windows roll up faster now. My car starts up faster. This begs the question - why? I have a brand new alternator. Brand new red top battery. I keep up with everything. My sound system is a whopping 400 watts drain. Why in the world did this small upgrade give me such results? Do wires go bad over time? I would assume not but I don't know. I guess I'm curious as to why it seemed to help.

I did it as a "shits-and-giggles" upgrade but found it actually helped. I'll take some pics and post them. Just so everyone know, on the strut tower I drilled a hole, took a drill and wire brush to get off the paint, secured the ground wires, and repainted everything with semi-gloss bbq grill paint to prevent corrosion to prevent rust.

---------- Post added at 11:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:53 PM ----------

Here is some pics just to show what I did. The negative wires I left bare. The positive wire (alternator to battery) I put in wire loom. It looked.....off with a bright red cable just running under the hood.










The kit I bought:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sky-High-O...178061?hash=item41c17eaa4d:g:xJsAAOSwCGVX-Bld

The quality of the wire isn't the best but for $20 I can't complain. I'm not beating the block down with bass so it wasn't something I wanted to drop $100 on. I came out of pocket on zip ties and a nut to tie in the neg wire on the post but those were parts I had laying around.

I used a hammer crimp for the lugs, provided shrink wrap, and electric tape where needed. I utilized the GM post on the positive side (part of the reason I like optima batteries) as the regular post was tied up with other connections I was using for OEM electrical wiring and amps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,557 Posts
Yes wires go bad from water and heat corrosion. You ever notice that green corrosion around the battery terminals? That can and will appear anywhere on any wire especially in a high voltage, hot, wet environment. This is prevalent especially on the starter lead around the starter.

As for why it helps well the answer is simple. Electricity flows like a river, by increasing the number of grounds you allowed more flow to ground which puts less stress on the other grounds. A big one that helps in the added ground at the alternator lower mounting ear. The alternator is grounded via the block. By adding that ground youve added a straight path to the battery essentially lowering resistance.
 

·
6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
Joined
·
5,218 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes wires go bad from water and heat corrosion. You ever notice that green corrosion around the battery terminals? That can and will appear anywhere on any wire especially in a high voltage, hot, wet environment. This is prevalent especially on the starter lead around the starter.

As for why it helps well the answer is simple. Electricity flows like a river, by increasing the number of grounds you allowed more flow to ground which puts less stress on the other grounds. A big one that helps in the added ground at the alternator lower mounting ear. The alternator is grounded via the block. By adding that ground youve added a straight path to the battery essentially lowering resistance.
Fantastic answer thank you sir. That makes a lot of sense now that I'm thinking about it.

I followed the ground of the battery itself from stock and it grounds to the driver side bolt that holds the motor mount to the frame. I was thinking of beefing that up but decided against it.

The only thing i am worried about is the power wire from the alternator to the battery as it is non fused. Direct unfused electrical connections scare the piss out of me because if something happens there's nothing there to stop it. Basically a fire hazard. Given the stock alternator output I believe is 120, would I run an inline fuse at say 120A or should I shoot higher?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,581 Posts
Yes wires go bad from water and heat corrosion. You ever notice that green corrosion around the battery terminals? That can and will appear anywhere on any wire especially in a high voltage, hot, wet environment. This is prevalent especially on the starter lead around the starter.

As for why it helps well the answer is simple. Electricity flows like a river, by increasing the number of grounds you allowed more flow to ground which puts less stress on the other grounds. A big one that helps in the added ground at the alternator lower mounting ear. The alternator is grounded via the block. By adding that ground youve added a straight path to the battery essentially lowering resistance.
I believe the reason you see corrosion around the battery and the start wire and other wires with partially soldered terminal Is due to incorrect soldering allowing contamination into the solder joint much like contamination in welding Joints. Once the corrosion starts the corrosion trickles down the wire.

I like this upgrade the extra size wire allow for a little extra power to get to those switches which is good. Now that you said that i actually noticed a bump in my window speed as well when i done my wiring upgrades.

---------- Post added at 09:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:17 AM ----------

Fantastic answer thank you sir. That makes a lot of sense now that I'm thinking about it.

I followed the ground of the battery itself from stock and it grounds to the driver side bolt that holds the motor mount to the frame. I was thinking of beefing that up but decided against it.

The only thing i am worried about is the power wire from the alternator to the battery as it is non fused. Direct unfused electrical connections scare the piss out of me because if something happens there's nothing there to stop it. Basically a fire hazard. Given the stock alternator output I believe is 120, would I run an inline fuse at say 120A or should I shoot higher?
You do know the stock setup has a direct link from the fuse box to the battery to the ALT which means the line between the fuse block and the ALT does not have a fuse in te factory configuration or atleast on my 2000 GT.
 

·
6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
Joined
·
5,218 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes wires go bad from water and heat corrosion. You ever notice that green corrosion around the battery terminals? That can and will appear anywhere on any wire especially in a high voltage, hot, wet environment. This is prevalent especially on the starter lead around the starter.

As for why it helps well the answer is simple. Electricity flows like a river, by increasing the number of grounds you allowed more flow to ground which puts less stress on the other grounds. A big one that helps in the added ground at the alternator lower mounting ear. The alternator is grounded via the block. By adding that ground youve added a straight path to the battery essentially lowering resistance.
I believe the reason you see corrosion around the battery and the start wire and other wires with partially soldered terminal Is due to incorrect soldering allowing contamination into the solder joint much like contamination in welding Joints. Once the corrosion starts the corrosion trickles down the wire.

I like this upgrade the extra size wire allow for a little extra power to get to those switches which is good. Now that you said that i actually noticed a bump in my window speed as well when i done my wiring upgrades.

---------- Post added at 09:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:17 AM ----------

Fantastic answer thank you sir. That makes a lot of sense now that I'm thinking about it.

I followed the ground of the battery itself from stock and it grounds to the driver side bolt that holds the motor mount to the frame. I was thinking of beefing that up but decided against it.

The only thing i am worried about is the power wire from the alternator to the battery as it is non fused. Direct unfused electrical connections scare the piss out of me because if something happens there's nothing there to stop it. Basically a fire hazard. Given the stock alternator output I believe is 120, would I run an inline fuse at say 120A or should I shoot higher?
You do know the stock setup has a direct link from the fuse box to the battery to the ALT which means the line between the fuse block and the ALT does not have a fuse in te factory configuration or atleast on my 2000 GT.
I had no idea! I just read horror stories on car audio forums of people not fusing it, something happened, blah blah.

I ended up just getting a fuse box off eBay for 10 bucks. Atleast it'll help me sleep better.

The battery gauge needle also sits farther past the middle now.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top