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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok , any help on what is the differance....
now i am running the stock plastic vortech bosch valve, i'm running it open, but i seen it states the valve is only good for 10psi and 375hp...
my question is i'm hitting nearly 12 on my boost gauge at redline, but could this claim that vortech is making be robbing me power?...as stated the valve says 375 hp, i'm making nearly 415whp...
i wanted to switch to a regular bov, but i did'nt want to mess anything up...andbody running a supercharged car with an open valve, please state the make and model of the valve you are using....and how it is hooked up, ect....
i'm thinking of switching over to a different valve, but i want to see what people are using...
i tried a regular dsm valve, but it was acting up...i dropped it and broke the nipple off it, put it back together and was going crazy on the dyno, so i had to put the bosch on...
so mainly my question is will a regular turbo bov work yes or no i need some input...
thanks..
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ok, all i needed to know...a stock dsm/300gt bov will hold upto 14psi...i think mine may be leaking...due to what vortech is saying...
i think when i broke the vacuum nipple off and re-attached it, somethingn got messed up , thats why it was going crazy on the dyno...

i have seen mixed opinions on this though......
so i need a few SC guys to chime in if they are running a bov like titl,hks,greedy,turboxs ect...
 

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Boost gets you laid
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i won't ever use a blowoff valve on a supercharged car again. your best bet is a bypass valve vented to the atmosphere. i'd go with a procharger big red bypass. they're spendy but very nice. or you can do two stock bypass valves. i had a Greddy Types s on mine and it fluttered so bad it sounded like there was a peacock under my hood when cruising at partial throttle, and it messed up my A/F ratio
 

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i won't ever use a blowoff valve on a supercharged car again. your best bet is a bypass valve vented to the atmosphere. i'd go with a procharger big red bypass. they're spendy but very nice. or you can do two stock bypass valves. i had a Greddy Types s on mine and it fluttered so bad it sounded like there was a peacock under my hood when cruising at partial throttle, and it messed up my A/F ratio
This made me lol!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i'm looking at the 2, and i can't see a differance...the tial and procharger look identical , but one is for turbo applications and the other for supercharger apps....
i half to get ahold of a good 2g dsm bov the inlet and outlet are twice the stock bosch valve, but i was worried it would not work the same, yet they appear to be....
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
are the forums dying or what ....i can't get any help..and this thread has ben up for about a week now..:(
 

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yeah the forums haven't been that active lately. Sucks cause now I get really bored at work haha.

Anyway, I have a procharger big red vented and love it. I still have to get it dialed in because I think it's not closing fully at WOT and leaking off boost, but who knows. Look into the procharger big red. I wouldn't do the open valve if you DD the car, cause you could easily have something get into the piping and go into your motor. The other big red has a little outlet on it so you can put a filter on it or cover it somehow. Either that or get the vortech mini-race vavle
 

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I Poop Entirely Way Too Much
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i won't ever use a blowoff valve on a supercharged car again. your best bet is a bypass valve vented to the atmosphere. i'd go with a procharger big red bypass. they're spendy but very nice. or you can do two stock bypass valves. i had a Greddy Types s on mine and it fluttered so bad it sounded like there was a peacock under my hood when cruising at partial throttle, and it messed up my A/F ratio
Why didnt you like at BOV? Dont a BOV and By-pass work the same when venting to the atmosphere?
 

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bov's and bypass valves are made differently. a bypass has a much softer spring than a BOV. the bov uses the spring to stay shut, the bypass uses the spring too but mainly uses boost pressure to stay shut. a bypass valve will stay wide open under partial throttle and close only when you give it a lot of gas creating close to zero vaccuum. a BOV will close under partial throttle (think about it, they're made for turbos which don't create boost when cruising at partial throttle, they require an engine load to spool. a centri blower is belt driven so it will be spooling and creating potential boost at any given rpm unlike a turbo) therefore causing it to flutter while cruising. not only is it annoying, but it will mess with your air/fuel ratio because the air will surge through your intercooler piping when the valve flutters, and it will make your a/f ratio spike up and down.

i hope this makes sense, lol i can understand it in my head but its hard to explain if you haven't experienced using both valves.
 

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While that is tru you can use a BOV with a mild spring as a By-pass. Thats what I do. It open venting air at part throttle, the vaccume pressure keeps it open and when i drop to about 16in of vac it closes fully.
 

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I got a BigRed Race vavle with my P1sc kit. I have researched it and every says its a great bypass. AND LOUD!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
the bigred race valve and the tial bov look very similar.....i just can't see spending that kind of money for a bov.....my boost does not blled off up top, so i doubt i am leaking, and i'm making much more hp than vortech says on a stock bosch....i dunno ...i doubt anything would change if i dropped 300 bucks on a valve, other than maybe it will be a bit louder...
 

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The race valve is a lot louder
 

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Well if you're making a lot of hp that usually means you're using a lot of boost and you should proably have a BOV/BPV that has the correct springs to handle your application. I could also see a potential problem if the outlet on the BOV/BPV is too small if you're running a lot of boost. If it's not able to vent off all the air when you want it to then you're going to have a flutter when too much air is coming through the system, much like when you're running a BOV and it's trying to close at part throttle. Either way it just means that too much air is coming in when it's supposed to be venting off.

A good BOV/BPV is pretty crucial to a good turbo or sc setup. Think about it. If you have a shitty valve you're either going to be bleeding off a bunch of boost when you don't want to (losing hp) or you're going to be forcing in a lot of air that the engine doesn't want (risking detonation and engine failure).
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
i'm working on it....more than likely gong to go with the big race, since it will easilly work with my setup without me changing anything..
 
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