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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone else get problems with these so early?
Mine have been warped since probably 4,000 miles only on the car
I know it comes with ceramic pads which i personally dont like. I used a set on the V6 once and it warped the new rotors first night out...i didnt stop from about 140-60

but still i figured Ford would have thought up a solution
heading to the dealer for a warranty exchange on them:D
 

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Priest of the Car Gods
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Stock pads are NOT designed to stop you from 140. If you're doing that often (and I think you are), at the VERY least you need to upgrade to a performance brake pad.
 

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MM's resident Juice head
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mine are heat scored big time...two hard stops and my pedal is pulsing....they suck sweaty ball sacks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Stock pads are NOT designed to stop you from 140. If you're doing that often (and I think you are), at the VERY least you need to upgrade to a performance brake pad.
noo 140 was the v6..it was an example of the my belief that its the ceramic bad

my GT at cruising highway speeds the pulsating gets worse:eek:
 

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Not a Rational Car Guy
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I thought I read a TSB for the brakes at school...I'll check tonight. (It could have been a different Ford though). Doesn't hurt to check though.
 

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Stock pads and rotors are not adequate for the weight or power that these mustangs have i'm currently upgrading my pads and front rotors to drill slotted. My rotors have spots on them like somebody held a blow torch to them at spots.
 

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why not?
 

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BWAL Is My Hero
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A couple reasons. Firstly, the name of the game in braking is surface area. If you drill rotors you take away from that surface area. Secondly, cracking. Drilled rotors have a really nasty tendancy to crack between holes. Look at trans-am cars. Look at touring cars. Anything that runs professionally on a road coarse. None of them run drilled rotors. Slotted only. Some of the new rotors aren't even slotted.
 

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Stock pads and rotors are not adequate for the weight or power that these mustangs have i'm currently upgrading my pads and front rotors to drill slotted. My rotors have spots on them like somebody held a blow torch to them at spots.
Actually upgrading the stock pads, resurfacing stock rotors or replacing them with OEM rotors, fluid, and lines, and maybe some cooling ducts to the brakes is going to be about one million times better. I really mean one million times better, too. :D
 

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Actually upgrading the stock pads, resurfacing stock rotors or replacing them with OEM rotors, fluid, and lines, and maybe some cooling ducts to the brakes is going to be about one million times better. I really mean one million times better, too. :D
+1, this is what I did and the braking is much improved. 140mph stops don't phase anything. I did hawk hps pads, machined rotors, and added ss brake lines
 

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Stop Tech

Try looking at kits by stop tech they are complete and will stop U and U don't have to spend $2000 bones on caliper upgrades nice if U have the money but the factory calipers are stout so the brake duct work I have a friend who installed the agent 47 kit looked at Steeda but do you have to replace lower grill with Steeda?
 

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A couple reasons. Firstly, the name of the game in braking is surface area. If you drill rotors you take away from that surface area. Secondly, cracking. Drilled rotors have a really nasty tendancy to crack between holes. Look at trans-am cars. Look at touring cars. Anything that runs professionally on a road coarse. None of them run drilled rotors. Slotted only. Some of the new rotors aren't even slotted.
I have the BAER Front/Rear kit (drilled & slotted), and I've personally never had any of the cracking problems.. I have seen a few people down here with big brake kits that have that problem though. Maybe it has something to do with the way people brake.. or if they go to wash their cars right after they've been riding for a while?
 
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