[Filly]

Alright, my dad and I are finally getting around to ordering parts for our build. Our goal is 500ish at the crank with 400+ at the wheels with a engine built and a supercharger capable of pushing more with a simple pulley swap. Basically we may realize we want more horsepower later and do not want to be limited. We would not need anything stronger then something capable of 650-700 hp at the crank. Our one thing is to build up a brand new engine only keeping the bullitt manifold.Anyways here's my questions?

The research I have done has said the bare bones block is capable of 700 hp as long as everything, literally everything is replaced including rotating assembly. We want to buy the engine of of LMR code names Romeo from ford racing. It retails around $800. Is this information on its capabilities correct?

Can you guys give me an idea of which centri to get that can easily reach the hp goals and is able to improve with a pulley swap?

Which cam should I go with?

Which heads?

Pistons?

Rods?

Cams?

Basically if someone could give me a general idea of a engine part list that I should order and which stuff I should swap over?

It's a project with my dad and I so it's technically his car and he will be funding the project so money is not an objection and we would prefer the best parts available for the build so we do not want to cheap out.

I've done research, but I just want to know what you guys suggest and have experienced.

 

[Jgib4]

If u are building a motor why not start with an aluminum block to save weight? As for heads, trick flow would be your best option if price isn't an issue and if u plan on throwing a blower on there hp292s or another type blower cam would be your best bet

 

[Scott2001GT]

stock block is fine too...a $800 bare iron block is crazy!

Manley pistons, manley rods with ARP 2000 bolts, arp threw out the entire engine, hp cams seem to work well or look at Bullet racing cams, forged crank, stock PI heads re worked are fine or TFS heads. Doesnt have to be anything to awfully crazy. A d1sc will get you to 600rwhp or a T trim a Procharger f1a would work but 400hp range isnt in its range to really shine. IMO a Novi 2000 or 2200 would be your best bet. They are badass blowers.

 

[Froush]

The block itself is good for well over the 700 you suggested. More like 1k. But the internals are what limit you. Just remember, power is useless if you cant put it to the ground. So i suggest getting some suspension while you have it all apart.

 

[Filly]

The block itself is good for well over the 700 you suggested. More like 1k. But the internals are what limit you. Just remember, power is useless if you cant put it to the ground. So i suggest getting some suspension while you have it all apart.

Yes I plan on doing suspension front to back but I already have a good understanding of what I need which is why I didn't bother asking.


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App

 

[Filly]

If I went with a 4v aluminum block, would I still be able to attach the 2v bullitt manifold as long as the heads are 2v and pistons


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App

 

[srt10ram]

I'd go MMR 750 forged rotating assembly. Blower cams w/ stock heads would probably support enough power, but I'd go with a ported head/cams package from MHS with stage 3 blower cams w/ Ford GT lash adjusters & good springs. Then pick up a used head-unit (s-trim, t-trim, d1sc, ysi, novi2000/2200), get the matching bracket/oil feeds off superchagersonline, Treadstone fmic and piping/couplers, dual fuel hat w/ dual kurgan 340lph's, modified fpdm or add a 2nd one, 60lb or 80lb injectors, bov, and don't forget a good clutch. Do all that you're good to low 600whp depending on which blower, also the stock transmission and rear end might not be super reliable at those power levels. You're looking at 10-12k with everything not including trans., rear end, or suspension.

 

[Jgib4]

If I went with a 4v aluminum block, would I still be able to attach the 2v bullitt manifold as long as the heads are 2v and pistons


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App

:yes:
You would not want to use4v pistons with 2v heads unless u are planning a high compression build. 2v heads on that block have been done a good amount of times and it will save you around 60-70 pounds

 

[Scott2001GT]

if you get an MMR rotating assembly makes sure you check ALL part numbers and have a shop look at it too to make sure its all right with your order.

A return system would be better for that 700rwhp part IMO

 

[Wooboost283]

WAP block fur sure, save some weight.

 

[bulloch27]

Don't spend $800 on a block that's identical to what you have in your car already. Iron blocks are plentiful and can be picked up for next to nothing. Aluminum blocks are plentiful and cost a little more. FWIW all 4V blocks are aluminum except Termi blocks. This means all the way back to 1991 in the Lincolns you can find aluminum blocks. 02-05 Explorers also used aluminum blocks as well as 05 up 3V Mustangs. The point is, blocks are plentiful and you'd be wasting money to spend 8 bills on a new block.

 

[Filly]

All of the help has been good so far.
As far as parts we are getting the block, trick flow 44cc heads. Could you guys link me to exactly which arp and Manley parts I would need. I went to summit to look at piston and there is a ton of different options and dimension.


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App

 

[Wooboost283]

ModMax - 4.6 and 5.4 Modular Experts

bought everythig here except for rods and rod/main bearings

 

[wicked96gt]

Your stock block is fine it will support way over 700hp like they stated previously. There are many different blowers that will take you to your goal and plus some also. I love my novi2000. Once I get more money it will be pushing me ot 650-700rwhp hopefully.

 

[Filly]

Ok well we finally got out garage in place with all of the tools (floor jacks, jacks, ramps, engine lift, engine stand, transmission jack, compressor, air tools and all of the basics. We are getting all of the components out of the way to pull the engine but my one question is do you guys prefer to pull the tranny out with the engine or separate?


Sent from AutoGuide.com App

 

[Froush]

I pull both at the same time usually

 

[bulloch27]

I've done it every way under the sun. The easiest way in my opinion, on the ground with no lift, is the engine only.