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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking at getting a pair of slicks and wheels to match this weekend.

I understand that the goal is with track tires to run as much tire as you need to hook, but not more, or else you'll be slowing yourself down.

With that said, I'm looking at the Summit Weld clones in 15x8 w/ 5.5" BS. For tires, I am thinking the Hoosier 26/9-15.

So here are my questions:

1). Is a 9" wide tire appropriately sized for a 8" wide drag wheel?
2). Are 26x9 bias plys going to be enough for me to hook with 410rwhp?
3). Are there any special procedures I need to adhere to when mounting/balancing these things? Do I need the sticky weights that go inside the wheel, or can I use the ones that mount on the lip?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Need more info. Gear, stick or auto. What stall. Power adders and how much boost or no2. You goals.

---------- Post added at 11:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:55 AM ----------

Sorry for all the ? just didn't feel like reading 20 pages of build thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What gear?
Need more info. Gear, stick or auto. What stall. Power adders and how much boost or no2. You goals.

---------- Post added at 11:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:55 AM ----------

Sorry for all the ? just didn't feel like reading 20 pages of build thread.
3.73s, auto, stock stall. 10lbs of boost with a Novi 2000, cammed, making 410rwhp. In the future I'll be going with a stall, but I'd like to do that after this season is over to minimize downtime.
 

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Head Unicorn
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15x10" wheel with 6.5" backspacing........ 26x9 Hoosier will be ideal with the gear and tight converter. The wider wheel will flatten the footprint of the 9" tire.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
15x10" wheel with 6.5" backspacing........ 26x9 Hoosier will be ideal with the gear and tight converter. The wider wheel will flatten the footprint of the 9" tire.
Thank you, sir!

So, to be clear, I can use a 9" wide tire on a 10" wide wheel?

Also, when balancing these, do I need to use the sticky weights that go inside the rim, or is it ok to use the ones the fit on the bead?

EDIT:

So, I'm reading that balancing is not a good idea because 1). with a quality slick it isn't needed, and 2). the tires will slip 1/4" on the bead during a good launch. Thoughts?

Also, I found two different versions of the Hoosier slicks. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hoo-18120 is a regular slick, and http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hoo-17415 is the QTP version. What is the difference between these two?
 

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The Little 2v That Could
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QTP simply has 2 small lines down the center patch that make it DOT legal. That way if you get stopped by the cops you can explain they're not full on track only slicks. I run 26 x 11.5 QTPs on an 8in. wheel, there's some sway but that's mostly due to running full size radials up front.

If I were you I'd get 26 x 11.5 QTPs on a 10" wheel. If the 26 x 9 is much cheaper then just get those. They'll dead hook even on the street once heated up and on a good surface. The weights are up to you, I'd at least check how far off they are once the tires are mounted. A little tip to prevent them from leaking over time, is coat the entire inside of the tires with Dawn Dishsoap. I did that to mine and the loose no pressure what so ever.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
QTP simply has 2 small lines down the center patch that make it DOT legal. That way if you get stopped by the cops you can explain they're not full on track only slicks. I run 26 x 11.5 QTPs on an 8in. wheel, there's some sway but that's mostly due to running full size radials up front.

If I were you I'd get 26 x 11.5 QTPs on a 10" wheel. If the 26 x 9 is much cheaper then just get those. They'll dead hook even on the street once heated up and on a good surface. The weights are up to you, I'd at least check how far off they are once the tires are mounted. A little tip to prevent them from leaking over time, is coat the entire inside of the tires with Dawn Dishsoap. I did that to mine and the loose no pressure what so ever.
Gotcha, makes sense. I have no intention of driving these on the street; that is what my Saleen wheels + tires are for.

Thanks for the tip about Dawn. I'll put a good dose in there before they are mounted.

Even with a manual you would recommend the 11.5" tires? Only reason I ask is because I borrowed a friend's 28x9 MT drags last time at the track, and it was making life hard on my car with the stock stall. Car felt sluggish off the line, and I had to really be rolling to spin the tires.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So from what I am reading so far, go with the 10" wheel and either 9" or 11.5" tires depending on the footprint I want.

I read earlier that there is only ~2lbs difference between the difference widths, so I doubt it'll make a huge difference either way. The 28s were probably bogging me because of the diameter.

Any other opinions or follow-ups are appreciated! I want to buy these bad boys tonight so I can run them this Friday!
 

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So from what I am reading so far, go with the 10" wheel and either 9" or 11.5" tires depending on the footprint I want.

I read earlier that there is only ~2lbs difference between the difference widths, so I doubt it'll make a huge difference either way. The 28s were probably bogging me because of the diameter.

Any other opinions or follow-ups are appreciated! I want to buy these bad boys tonight so I can run them this Friday!
with your power level and an auto a 15x8 with a 26x9 will be plenty. Even when you put a converter in it it'll still hook great. I for sure wouldn't go with anything over a 26", just will slow you down. If you decided to go with a wider wheel/tire I cant say I'd blame you, but just shouldn't be necessary at your level.
 

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Head Unicorn
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Gotcha, makes sense. I have no intention of driving these on the street; that is what my Saleen wheels + tires are for.

Thanks for the tip about Dawn. I'll put a good dose in there before they are mounted.

Even with a manual you would recommend the 11.5" tires? Only reason I ask is because I borrowed a friend's 28x9 MT drags last time at the track, and it was making life hard on my car with the stock stall. Car felt sluggish off the line, and I had to really be rolling to spin the tires.
It bogged because the tire was 28" tall; which effectively changes your gear ratio to ****. Width won't change much at all in the launch. When I said 9" is perfect on a 10" wheel I MEAN A TRUE 9" TREAD. I don't care what numbers are molded into the sidewall, look at the tire's spec sheet. Run a 26" tall tire and a 9" width on the 10" wheel and you'll have great results.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for all the input, guys.

I would up going with the 11.5" QTPs on a 15x10 wheel with 6.5" BS. Reading Bolloch's post, I'm glad I didn't go with the 26x9.5s like I was originally planning; they are only an 8" wide tread. The 11.5" are a 10" tread and should fit nicely on the 10" wheel. In hindsight, might have been a better idea to get the 26x10 regular slick to have that 9" contact patch, but atleast with the 11.5s I will have room to add more power.

UPS says they will be here Wednesday. I'll get them mounted and hopefully test them out this week!
 

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Head Unicorn
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Thanks for all the input, guys.

I would up going with the 11.5" QTPs on a 15x10 wheel with 6.5" BS. Reading Bolloch's post, I'm glad I didn't go with the 26x9.5s like I was originally planning; they are only an 8" wide tread. The 11.5" are a 10" tread and should fit nicely on the 10" wheel. In hindsight, might have been a better idea to get the 26x10 regular slick to have that 9" contact patch, but atleast with the 11.5s I will have room to add more power.

UPS says they will be here Wednesday. I'll get them mounted and hopefully test them out this week!
You'll be good as long as the QTPs are 26". Their spec'd 10" but they're a touch shy. They hook good and you'll be happy.
 

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The Little 2v That Could
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Nice I run those exact tires on a Summit Racing 15 x 8. I've been contemplating selling the 8's for some 10's to increase the contact patch and reduce sway.
If you're not running skinnies up front gotta be extra careful, but having a auto definently won't be as bad as a manual which shifts some weight/balance during shifts.

Although this guy has bias plys up front, same idea the car will rebound with any little steering input.
Another example
 

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You'll be good as long as the QTPs are 26". Their spec'd 10" but they're a touch shy. They hook good and you'll be happy.
They are! It'll be good having the narrower sidwall, then. I'm eager to try them out. Thanks for the help!

Nice I run those exact tires on a Summit Racing 15 x 8. I've been contemplating selling the 8's for some 10's to increase the contact patch and reduce sway.
If you're not running skinnies up front gotta be extra careful, but having a auto definently won't be as bad as a manual which shifts some weight/balance during shifts.

Although this guy has bias plys up front, same idea the car will rebound with any little steering input.
Damn man. That first pass with the Supra made me sick to my stomach. :( Guy was a psycho for salvaging that run.

I'm not running skinnies up front. Before with my friend's tires, I noticed some sway up top (maybe 80+mph). It was enough to give me a brief panic but I decided I had it under control and powered through. Is this going to be a death sentence for me, trying to run street radials up front and a bias ply out back?

Only reason I am hesitant to switch to a full big and little track set is that the shut down area is VERY small for this track. Like, having to slam on the brakes so hard it'll warp your rotors if you aren't smart, small. I'm worried that skinnies won't be able to provide the stopping power I need in that distance.
 

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The Little 2v That Could
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They are! It'll be good having the narrower sidwall, then. I'm eager to try them out. Thanks for the help!



Damn man. That first pass with the Supra made me sick to my stomach. :( Guy was a psycho for salvaging that run.

I'm not running skinnies up front. Before with my friend's tires, I noticed some sway up top (maybe 80+mph). It was enough to give me a brief panic but I decided I had it under control and powered through. Is this going to be a death sentence for me, trying to run street radials up front and a bias ply out back?

Only reason I am hesitant to switch to a full big and little track set is that the shut down area is VERY small for this track. Like, having to slam on the brakes so hard it'll warp your rotors if you aren't smart, small. I'm worried that skinnies won't be able to provide the stopping power I need in that distance.
It's definitely an added risk, but you just have to smart about correcting the sway. That second video is what you have to do, let off and only counter steering a small fraction of what you would with radials all around. I was trying to find a video of a whipple cobra on the street I remember seeing with slicks out back and radials up front and the guy just wouldn't let out and was literally sliding 20ft+ side to side damn near hit a fence. Run as much psi (that will still allow traction) in the slicks , let off if it gets real hairy and don't counter steer as you would with normal radials.

With slicks and radials up front I had about 5 passes when I was cammed n/a and there wasn't much sway, a few interstate pulls while blown and it's swayed a little. I've also made one or two track passes in a bolt-on GT500 with the same setup and **** was a bit sketchy during the first few hundred feet and mid track shifting from 3-4th. Some of that is probably due to the massive rear end squat at WOT that the GT500's are known to do.
 
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