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KCCO
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Discussion Starter #1
So I was just lookin at CMS website, and it says the difference for stage 1 and stage 2 cams are as follows:

Stage 1: 25-30rwhp, 2500-6000rpm, springs not required, noticeable idle, tune suggested

Stage 2: 30-35rwhp, 2800-6200rpm, springs required, aggressive idle, tune required

Am I missing something or does it seem like the stage 1's are very similar to the 2's but without the need to change springs (only a 5wrhp difference). I think this just made up my mind on getting the stage 1's. What do you guys think?
 

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Hmmm ya man thats a tough choice, i would go for the stage 2, i mean if your already going to have to do the work and put them in there, you might as well go for the ones that give you that little extra. But if money is tight, stick with the stage 1s you probably wont be disappointed, cause there going to be a hell of a lot better than stock... Oh and Baz has the stage CMS stage 2 so maybe he will poke his head in here.
 

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KCCO
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Discussion Starter #5
Hmmm ya man thats a tough choice, i would go for the stage 2, i mean if your already going to have to do the work and put them in there, you might as well go for the ones that give you that little extra. But if money is tight, stick with the stage 1s you probably wont be disappointed, cause there going to be a hell of a lot better than stock... Oh and Baz has the stage CMS stage 2 so maybe he will poke his head in here.
I thought that I might as well, but with the stage 1's, I wont have to mess with the springs (which I have heard are a pita to install). Plus it's another $260 that I could put towards something else like longtubes
 

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I thought that I might as well, but with the stage 1's, I wont have to mess with the springs (which I have heard are a pita to install). Plus it's another $260 that I could put towards something else like longtubes
Ya thats a very good point.
 

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KCCO
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Discussion Starter #7
Hopefully other people do pipe in though, like you said. I like getting feedback from people who have experience. Hopefully someone has the stage 1's????????
 

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Cone Killer
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daily driver? Strip? autoX? Think about what rpm the car will be operating in the most. This might help with the decision. The 4.10's should help with keeping the car in the operating range of a higher stage cam.
 

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KCCO
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Discussion Starter #9
It is a spirited summer-only dd that I plan on autoxing a few times this summer, and maybe a couple times to the strip. Id rather it be able to take a corner than go in a straight line, but I wanna be able to be some competition for the street. To me, I dont think $260 + the added work is worth 5 horsepower
 

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Without the proper flow (75mm TB, plenum, head porting and LT headers) there isn't much since in doing either one to me. Just doing the cams is only part of the total performance package.

If you can't do it all at once go with the stage 2 cams and springs.
 

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Without the proper flow (75mm TB, plenum, head porting and LT headers) there isn't much since in doing either one to me. Just doing the cams is only part of the total performance package.

If you can't do it all at once go with the stage 2 cams and springs.

He has a throttle body, is looking at buying longtubes, head porting on stock heads is a waste of money unless you have all the stuff and knowledge to do it your self.
 

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Both are good cams, I went with the Stage II's for the best bang for the buck.

I got 40rwhp at peak with full bolt-ons. The car also gains 218rwhp on a 150 shot. Simply hard to beat the stage II's.

Take a second to get a tissue before clicking on the link below, or at least cover your keyboard. :D

IMG_0016.mp4 video by jaymclark - Photobucket
 

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If you are changing the springs, go for the Stage 2s hands down. They are both good cams, but the stage 1s are specifically made to keep from changing the springs. We also get a 5% discount on CMS's website as well, so you can factor that into your decision.

Degreeing is going to benefit any set of cams. I would consider it a must for any aftermarket cams. Degreeing makes sure you have proper PTV clearance, makes sure your banks are both synchronized and also help out with the tuning since the injector timing is run off the cam sensor. If your cams are off, you will not make as much power, you can and will have drivability/tuning issues, and you run the risk of having PTVC.
 

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Just saw the key on top of the graph nevermind

Are these dyno runs before and after cam comparison?
Yes, before and after. Dyno runs were one day apart. Only change was the cams. :cool:
 
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