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Discussion Starter #1
hey all, i havent been on for a really long time due to computer problems due to a virus but w/e. i called comp cams today looking to buy some for the bullitt these are the specs. 232/233 .500 are these pretty decent numbers? and i was wondering if anyone knew the specs on stock cams. thanks
 

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232/233 isnt bad, you could do better though... what are those? stage 1? it seems with 232/233 you might not even have to change your valve springs, and heres a hint...*shhh* if you dont have to change your valve springs with the new cams you're putting in, the new cams you just bought probably arnt gonna give you very much power, or at least as much power as you would like... try someting in the 260/260 range... talk to ACMillr... i believe his are custom grind 270/270 comp stage 2's...

as for the stock cams, i have no idea.
 

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MM's Mad Scientist
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232/233 isnt bad, you could do better though... what are those? stage 1? it seems with 232/233 you might not even have to change your valve springs, and heres a hint...*shhh* if you dont have to change your valve springs with the new cams you're putting in, the new cams you just bought probably arnt gonna give you very much power, or at least as much power as you would like... try someting in the 260/260 range... talk to ACMillr... i believe his are custom grind 270/270 comp stage 2's...

as for the stock cams, i have no idea.
Mustang Manic, you have to remember that the advertised spec.s (i.e. 262, 270, 278, whatever) are not really giving you the real picture. The 232/233 that the OP was talking about is duration @.050" lift. That's why a Comp "270 " cam is actually only seeing duration values of about 230 degrees.

One thing that has not been mentioned is lobe seperation, and that (IMO) is one of the often overlooked keys to making big power.

And BTW: The advertised duration of my cams would be closer to 290 than 270.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
i was gonna go with what u recommended ac about hi tech but my dad wasnt aware of the company so he kinda leaned away. how much would it cost to do valve springs and i no they are around 200 bucks. i want teh best ones for stock heads but im just reseaching now, i heard to change the springs it costs aroudn 400 bucks?
 

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Mustang Manic, you have to remember that the advertised spec.s (i.e. 262, 270, 278, whatever) are not really giving you the real picture. The 232/233 that the OP was talking about is duration @.050" lift. That's why a Comp "270 " cam is actually only seeing duration values of about 230 degrees.

One thing that has not been mentioned is lobe seperation, and that (IMO) is one of the often overlooked keys to making big power.

And BTW: The advertised duration of my cams would be closer to 290 than 270.

oooooooooooooooohhhhhhhhhh ok... i fully understand now. Thanks ac
 

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MM's Mad Scientist
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https://www.hitechmotorsport.com/st...=43789&zenid=bceeb408c11dc9ad9c999b5fa100b524
this is the link you gave me awhile ac. should i go with these then? there not much of a difference with the ones comp offered and i wouldnt need to change the valve springs
There is alot of difference between these and the comps. First off, there is alot more to cam profiles than lift, duration, and lobe seperation. Comp cams have a high ramp rate, and also have 5 degrees of advanced intake timing ground into them. The high ramp rate is what makes these mod motors sound like a sewing machine. Valve springs should always be upgraded IMO due to the fact that you will be wanting to take your motor higher into the rpm band with aftermarket cams. If you stick to the factory rpm limits, you will PROBABLY never have a problem. I would suggest the Hitechs for what you are wanting to accomplish with your set up.
 
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