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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got a rebuild, during my break-in my engine began to tick/knock again. I'm being told by the guys responsible that its the manufacturers fault...faulty lifters. Is that possible?
 

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Boost gets you laid
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how much oil/what kind do you have in it? are you seeing oil pressure? very unlikely the lash adjusters are the culprit.. they are pretty much gonna work unless you have low oil pressure.
 

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You need to be more specific.....loud knock....go up with rpm? If you put a cam in your car you will get alot more drive train noise....it should sound like a sewing machine at idle and may get a little valve train noise depending on the lift and size of the camshaft.....

"ED"
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
how much oil/what kind do you have in it? are you seeing oil pressure? very unlikely the lash adjusters are the culprit.. they are pretty much gonna work unless you have low oil pressure.
The oil pressure was good. i got the oil changed, used royal purple, k&n filter, but still have the same results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You need to be more specific.....loud knock....go up with rpm? If you put a cam in your car you will get alot more drive train noise....it should sound like a sewing machine at idle and may get a little valve train noise depending on the lift and size of the camshaft.....

"ED"
It's louder than a sewing machine...gets faster of course when pressing on the gas...
 

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weird.. i wonder if its a timing chain tensioner.. maybe they forgot to take the pins out of the tensioners when they buttoned everything up?
 

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mm's nitrous mod
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if the pins were still in, then the chains will have a lot of slack. we had a knock out of the mach after we got it back together the first time, it sounded almost like a rod except it came from top end. i got to looking it over and it turned out to be the lifters (lash adjusters). we changed them, and it was fine. there was a .006 difference between a couple, but i guess that was enough to get a knock.
 

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if the pins were still in, then the chains will have a lot of slack. we had a knock out of the mach after we got it back together the first time, it sounded almost like a rod except it came from top end. i got to looking it over and it turned out to be the lifters (lash adjusters). we changed them, and it was fine. there was a .006 difference between a couple, but i guess that was enough to get a knock.
wow i'm surprised, i've never heard of them failing.

to the OP, pull your valve covers and get a new set of lash adjusters put in. should be very easy. you need a valve spring compressor which you can get from ford and a set of lifters. the rest is cake. i bet that is the problem if its not slop in the timing chains.
 

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mm's nitrous mod
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either have i, that one is the only one i have even heard of :dunno there was good pressure, they all were working, but just didnt extend all the way i guess.
 

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wow i'm surprised, i've never heard of them failing.

to the OP, pull your valve covers and get a new set of lash adjusters put in. should be very easy. you need a valve spring compressor which you can get from ford and a set of lifters. the rest is cake. i bet that is the problem if its not slop in the timing chains.
you can do it without a valve spring compressor, large flat tip screwdriver works fine
 

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Lol, Thanks, but will that require a trip to a shop or is it something I can do?
Tuner required. If you have a tuner you could do it yourself, but it would prolly be a better idea to get it dyno tuned.
 

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you can do it without a valve spring compressor, large flat tip screwdriver works fine
The right tool only cost $30. Using a screwdriver can and will bend the valve stem. A bent valve stem will bind in the guide and will make a tapping noise or stick open and get jacked up by the piston.


Can you post a video of the noise it makes.
 

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The right tool only cost $30. Using a screwdriver can and will bend the valve stem. A bent valve stem will bind in the guide and will make a tapping noise or stick open and get jacked up by the piston
Well, having the right tool is great,but I don't know how you do it but I have used that method on all makes of ohc engines for 30 years and never bent a valve tip or caused any other damage so saying it WILL bend a valve stem is totally BS
 

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I use the right tool..
For a person that doesn't work on this type engine and doesn't know what they are doing....yes they could bend a valve.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Still Having Trouble

I have tried all except for repairing the valve. I used my tune for the "system too lean" code, changed my spark plugs, cam position sensor and fresh oil change. I am now getting a code "cam position sensor A or Bank 1". What is Bank 1?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Tuner required. If you have a tuner you could do it yourself, but it would prolly be a better idea to get it dyno tuned.
I have changed my spark plugs, oil, cam position sensor (in the front) and idle air control valve, along with setting my tune to run "richer". Now everytime I come to a stop it runs really rough...HELP!
 
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