Since you dont want to degree them (which is pretty half ass if you want the most performance out of them) look into the ones baker has, Houston performance 292 or something like that. Theyre really cheap too since theyre regrinds. I wanna say only $450.
Yea, but honestly for the price to ship it to you and for you to ship it back you could prolly get one. I wanna say theyre like $15-$20 at summit and even cheaper at harbor freight and such places.
I really cant think of any other cams that work great fi and dont really require degreeing due to ptv problems.
Although theyre a na the ones I have seem to work well fi. Once I got the timing right I spun them around by hand and such before degreeing and didnt get any ptv. That doesnt guarantee you wont though as things can vary. :dunno...just an idea.
My dad can do them, he has done them just never degreed them in his old cars, he just tossed em in about 20 years ago, We did all the supercharger stuff, But yeah i will get me a degreeing wheel, so you just degree it till its to cam specs?
You find tdc of cylinder 1, using a tdc stop and the degree wheel.
Set to tdc and 0 the degree wheel
put a dial indicator on the #1 intake valve, turn the crank until you reach .050" before max lift, record the number the pointer for your degree wheel is pointing to, turn to .050" after maxlift and record that number.
Add the numbers together, then divided by 2. That is your ICL it should match the icl number on your cam card. If not adjust your cam gears as needed and repeat the process until it it correct.
No need to find tdc again, move the dial indicator to the cylinder 6 intake valve and repeat the process.
Thats just a basic what needs to be done list. Youll also need a solid lifter or a collapsed lifter to use on the #1 and #6 intake valves as you degree each side. Along with a little plate made out of steel that you can bolt to your heads using some misc bolts and the threaded valve cover holes to mount the dial indicator.
I took a plate of 1/8" or so steel I had laying around and cut it into a rectangle, then cut out some notches in it so the rockers & lifters wouldn't hit it, ground it smooth drilled 2 holes where the front 2 valve cover bolts would go, then found some misc bolts that fit through the plate and threaded into the head. The valve cover bolts wont work, theyll bottom out before coming in contact with the plate.
^ :yes..forgot about that thing. Finding one was hell too. Had to just google and order from some random store. and make sure the tdc stop you get is the correct size. The one that comes with the summit degree kit wont work.
AJM whats the chances of you sending me that stuff if i pay you ship and then ship it back to you when im done, like when i get the cams next pay check i will hit you up and maybe you could do that for me, hopefully
Bandity, you told me you were going with the MPH cams because they guy said he could guarantee you 100rwhp with the camswap! LOLOL... If you believe that then you believe hot dogs have bones! And whats the deal with you jocking me so hard? :dunno Then you text me talking about shaving a cobra spoiler. LOL Even with your camswap you wont hit what im pushing on my 150,000 miles motor. LOL!