Modded Mustang Forums banner

1 - 20 of 60 Posts

·
Procrastinator
Joined
·
4,558 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I still have my supercharger just sitting collecting dust, im a bit paranoid about my motor. I want to put together something over winter, and whenever im done, swap it over into my car, then boost it. Assuming I keep my job and nothing comes up, my budget is 6k. Id like to spend 4k on the motor, and hope that 2k is enough to fix any problems along the way. I have not really looked into and priced everything, just at a glance it looks possible. While looking on ebay, it seems that there is a 5L stroker kit going for fairly cheap all of the time, im thinking about picking it up. Ill try to pick up a teksid block, I see them for 300-600 all the time. I see gasket kits for ~250, timing chain set for 175, then ill just reuse everything else from my car. Im only sitting at 85k, unless someone else can think of things that it would be best if I use new. I am thinking about picking up a set of 2v heads and porting them out some, at least make sure the ports match for intake/exhaust, probably reuse stock cams, get new springs and valves, though im not sure how much that would cost. Is it unreasonable to think I can do all of this for ~4k? The more I look into it, the more I feel its possible, I am beginning to feel very comfortable throwing the motor together myself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
979 Posts
If you are just looking to have a new block and forged internals, check out CoastHighPerformance.com, DSSRacing.com, or MMR.com They have forged short blocks starting at 2300. If you are looking to do a stroker short block, then it will be a little bit more expensive. Or, you have a good idea already if you want to just do the work yourself. $4K will get you a bottom end, but I don't know how far it will get with heads too.



GL to you
 

·
Procrastinator
Joined
·
4,558 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, id like to do the work on my own, as part of the "my car" thing I seem to be enjoying by working on and making my own stuff. I also wouldn't mind the learning experience. I wouldn't think the top would cost too much, just new springs/valves right? I would do light porting and probably call all that good for a while.
 

·
mm's nitrous mod
Joined
·
12,988 Posts
if you know what you are doing and budget shop, then its easily possible. i did, and i got around 1500 or something like that in my rotating assembly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
177 Posts
i have an 03 cobra block with 12k miles on it if you are interested... also have the heads but they are warped and needs a rebuild
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,782 Posts
you can get an 05+ block easier and cheaper than a teksid, Plus they are stronger. You can get the foged goods from mmr for 1200
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
374 Posts
you can get an 05+ block easier and cheaper than a teksid, Plus they are stronger. You can get the foged goods from mmr for 1200
not being a dick, but teskid is the only allum. block i would get period but im staying cast iron to be safe, because Im picky like that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
566 Posts
$300 for new block at lethalperformance.com and $1500 for rotating assembly from stage3motorsports.com My machine guy said he'd charge me $200 to bore it .020" and assemble it, so price will vary on which machine shop you use.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,365 Posts
you guys do know that although the teksid block is aluminum it has iron sleeves right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
I've been researching how to build a solid 700+ blower motor for cheap and i bought a few books on mod motor performance and this is what it all came down too
-The stock cast iron block is good to near 1000 hp, after that go with aluminum
-Since the bottom plane of the 4.6 is flat (main caps, and oil pan face) GIRDLE THE HELL OUT OF IT!
-Go with the cobra crank, (although the guy who wrote the book said he's never actually witnessed a stock cast crank fail at 500+ hp) i would still be safe and go with forged though
-Definitely get new pistons and rods... that one's kinda a given lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,024 Posts
Check out MMR's website. They have a Built Bottem End thats rated for 900hp for $2,800. And one that are rated for like 600hp or 800hp and so on.
 

·
mm's nitrous mod
Joined
·
12,988 Posts
I've been researching how to build a solid 700+ blower motor for cheap and i bought a few books on mod motor performance and this is what it all came down too
-The stock cast iron block is good to near 1000 hp, after that go with aluminum
-Since the bottom plane of the 4.6 is flat (main caps, and oil pan face) GIRDLE THE HELL OUT OF IT!
-Go with the cobra crank, (although the guy who wrote the book said he's never actually witnessed a stock cast crank fail at 500+ hp) i would still be safe and go with forged though
-Definitely get new pistons and rods... that one's kinda a given lol
the iron can handle more than 1k, some clean up of the block will be needed. the man caps DO NOT NEED A GIRDLE unless its going to be 800rwhp+ and getting pounded on. these cast cranks have had 650rwhp pounded thru them all day long with no issues at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
I'm sure you can get away without using a girdle, but since you don't have to worry about interference problems, and they're inexpensive, why not go ahead and put one on? If anything it shields the crank for oil
 

·
mm's nitrous mod
Joined
·
12,988 Posts
the stock set up is stout on its own. no need to waste the money if not needed. as for shielding the crank, that is what a windage tray is for, and its a lot cheaper as well :eek:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
true, true
As for the 5.0L crank, unless you're going with cobra or stock crank, it doesn't cost any more what so ever, that's why i'm going with it. And from the dyno chart, it made a huge difference on the bottom end, but after 6000 it starts to hurt instead of help
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,782 Posts
05+ stonger than teksids??? wrong
ummm yah they are:

The "Aluminator" Crate Engine
With the all-new "Aluminator" line of crate engines, Ford Racing further strengthens its reputation for building performance engines that are factory-quality, easy-to-install and priced right.

The foundation of these engines is the 4.6-liter engine block used in the Mustang GT with its new block featuring strength unmatched by any previous production 4.6-liter aluminum block.

The new "Aluminator" crate engine line features high strength and quality but also is affordable because of its high volume production.

Because components have been used in production vehicle applications, parts cost is minimized as well. Short-block prices start at $4,500 MSRP, making the "Aluminator" engines with all-new components comparable in price to aftermarket remanufacturing programs.

the aluminator uses the production block found in 05+ mustangs

New Mustang Gallops To Finish Line - Ford
 

·
mm's nitrous mod
Joined
·
12,988 Posts
wrong, the new aluminum blocks are ok, they are not stronger than the teksid's. there have been a few people that have hurt these blocks including splitting it down the valley.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
374 Posts
wrong, the new aluminum blocks are ok, they are not stronger than the teksid's. there have been a few people that have hurt these blocks including splitting it down the valley.
yep, The 05-10 block is nothing amazing but my stock 2v block can take more punishment as far as blocks go, go in there section and just ask them what there blocks can handle.........
 

·
mm's nitrous mod
Joined
·
12,988 Posts
the gts supercar block is strong, probably comparable to the teksid. if the aluminator was the same block, then it would be capable of handling some power. but it is not the same block as what the mustang gt's are running.
 
1 - 20 of 60 Posts
Top