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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, back in the summer I took my shortblock to a local machine shop @ a Napa parts store. they bored block .030 over and they said the crank just needed to be polished not cut, so I gave them stock size main and rod bearings (clevelite's) and arp rod and main bolts, Ford racing rear main seal, and seal power freeze plug kit, and had them install all that... ( the guy did say he was supprised my crank didn't need to be cut since it had alot of end play when I brought it in, since the center main bearing that controls that was worn bad, and usually when that happens the cranks are messed up)...

I got it back months ago, but didn't have time to put it together yet, I'm still putting car back together, but by spring I want to get the motor back in... but my OCD is kicking in... and I'm wondering if they used the ultra lube that comes with the ARP bolts or did they just use motor oil, and if they torqued to the settings that the ARP bolts said too...

ARP's sight says to torque the rod bolts to 35 ft lb if you don't have a stretch gauge (which I don't) and the main bolts says 70 ft lb.

so I was thinking I should check these before I start re-assembling the motor, I have a bottle of the ARP ultra lube I bought for when I install the head bolts... so my ? is... is it ok for me to remove all the main bolts... wipe them down, and then coat with the ARP lube and install and torque to there settings? since the rear main seal is installed, will I have issues with it leaking now if I remove the bolts from that main cap and then re-torque? I know for the mains you have to go the set order and do the torquing 3 times, the 3rd time to the finally 70 ft lb, but for the rods I plan to do one at a time, remove both nuts coat with the arp lube and torque to 35 ft lb's.

So am I ok doing this? I know I could just go over everything with the torque wrench now, but I seen some post that that the torque changed via if you use oil vs the arp lube...
 

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You are correct, the arp spec for torque is ONLY for arp moly lube, not for oil. It will give a false torque reading. Do the bolts one bolt at a time. Go thru the torque steps on each bolt and finish it, then move to the next bolt. That way the caps won't move. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You are correct, the arp spec for torque is ONLY for arp moly lube, not for oil. It will give a false torque reading. Do the bolts one bolt at a time. Go thru the torque steps on each bolt and finish it, then move to the next bolt. That way the caps won't move. Good luck.
So are you saying for the Main bolts, just loosing one bolt in the cap and take all the way out and re-torque that bolt in 3 steps all the way to the 70 ft lb setting then do the same for the other bolt in that cap? this will cause no issue with one side of the cap loose? and will there be any issues with the rear main seal leaking on that rear cap? I should still follow the order though correct?

for the rods do I need to do this (one nut at a time), or just loosing and take off both nuts on the rod? (wasn't sure if this was a big a issue then with the main's).

thanks, sorry for all the ?, but just want to make sure I'm 110% before I do it...
 

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For the mains, yes, one bolt at a time, won't affect a thing. On the rods, no I never replace rod bolts without reconditioning the rod due to how little material there is in a rod vs a maincap. The rods really distort with rod bolt changes.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
For the mains, yes, one bolt at a time, won't affect a thing. On the rods, no I never replace rod bolts without reconditioning the rod due to how little material there is in a rod vs a maincap. The rods really distort with rod bolt changes.

They said they did that when I gave them the bolts and they install them... so that should have been done.
 

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The rods big end can get egg shaped over time,so reconditioning them will make them perfectly round again so they ride true on the crank.
 
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