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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all-

I'm a fairly knowledgeable car guy, I have built a few Miata turbo (piston upgrades/ port heads/ suspension/ rollcage/ etc..) track cars for people, including my own. I also build and sell intake kits online.

My uncle was diagnosed with cancer, and he has asked me to help him build his 1970 mustang with a new 5.0 engine/ trans he has in his garage. I need help with identifying the engine he has- i couldnt find any vin numbers

I've narrowed it down to (i think) a 91-93 T-bird/Cougar or a 94-95 Mustang. It has the AOD transmission mated to it. I was hoping to find out specifically which car it came from so I can get an exact match harness and ecu.

The spark plug wires say 1993 on it, not sure if that means anything. the transmission has a 92 stamped below the hex emblem

He said he knows a guy to get gauges for this setup, but that is also something i am concerned with. (along with fuel pump/ MAF sensor/ etc.)

I would love if you guys could help me expedite this process, I know i am supposed to google search and learn this stuff on my own but this is a different situation. he starts chemo next week, and is going to do 3 months then take a break, then 3 months more. Would be great if you could hold my hand thru this one. hopefully i finish it soon so he can enjoy it.

Thanks in advance
 

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A friend of mine told me to do the T5 swap, said it was much more reliable. My uncle also mentioned the T5. My friend said it was a direct bolt-on. Does this also work (or matter) for the ecu and harness?
 

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A friend of mine told me to do the T5 swap, said it was much more reliable. My uncle also mentioned the T5. My friend said it was a direct bolt-on. Does this also work (or matter) for the ecu and harness?
If it is an aod and not an aode then its out of a cougar.

While the t5 is a direct bolt on you will have to take into account what crossmember, driveshaft etc youll need. Same goes for the aod really since they werent available in 1970. It really comes down to you wanting to row gears or not. Both have pros and cons. And reliability is relative. The t5 is ok in stock form but if you plan on doing any drag racing I would skip it. The aod is ok but you have to worry about the tv cable and tv pressure. If its not set 100% right you will burn it up within miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
not doing any racing at all. I will need to google for TV cable/pressure... never done that.

Difference between AOD and AODE?

---------- Post added at 01:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:12 PM ----------

Am i correct that the AOD is not computer controlled, and AODE needs a separate stand-alone controller to be used in the '70?
 

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not doing any racing at all. I will need to google for TV cable/pressure... never done that.

Difference between AOD and AODE?

---------- Post added at 01:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:12 PM ----------

Am i correct that the AOD is not computer controlled, and AODE needs a separate stand-alone controller to be used in the '70?
Either trans will do then its a matter of whether you want to row gears or not. TV stands for throttle valve, its attached to both the throttle body and transmission and controls the amount of fluid pressure to the bands. Its synonymous with an epc solenoid but hydraulically controlled.

You are correct, though I would like to point out there were more changes than just becoming computer controlled. The bottom line though is if its an aod, put some money into it now and run it, if its an aode then figure out if you want to use a controller and go from there. Personally I like the aod. I had one in my 85 ltd and loved it. It was a tough transmission and shifts arent as sluggish as its electronically controlled cousins.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
from google images- it looks like the AOD bell housing is mostly "smooth", and the AODE has 4 ridges running on top of the bell housing. This trans seems like the AOD, am i correct? Does this mean that any computer and harness from a 91-93 T-bird/Cougar or a 94-95 Mustang will work? im assuming all of the engine sensors are the same? I have identified the IAC valve matches these years/ models.

I read that the t-bird/ coug has a cam for more tq but less hp, and that the plenum on the mustang (cobra) has taller runners? Does any of this matter for the harness/ ecu?
 

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from google images- it looks like the AOD bell housing is mostly "smooth", and the AODE has 4 ridges running on top of the bell housing. This trans seems like the AOD, am i correct? Does this mean that any computer and harness from a 91-93 T-bird/Cougar or a 94-95 Mustang will work? im assuming all of the engine sensors are the same? I have identified the IAC valve matches these years/ models.

I read that the t-bird/ coug has a cam for more tq but less hp, and that the plenum on the mustang (cobra) has taller runners? Does any of this matter for the harness/ ecu?
Its hard to tell from the pics. Youre probably right though. Is there another linkage that goes from the throttle body to the drivers side of the transmission?

No you will have to get a computer from an auto car, reason being the harnesses are different. Im assuming the pinout is different too because of this.

None of what youre referring to will have any bearing on which ecu to run though I have never heard of the cams being different. As far as I know an ho cam is an ho cam. The cobra itake however is different than the stock ho intake.
 

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Girl at work lost a good friend to cancer last month, and another was diagnosed with breast cancer. Its a struggle, and chemo can wear you down. Make every moment with your uncle count. I wish him the best.

As for your project, that is an AOD. The AOD is mechanically controlled via a TV cable to the throttle body. If that were an AOD-E, you would have an electrical connection for the shift solenoids instead of a TV cable.

The tag pic is a tad dark, but i assume it reads F2SP?

F = decade (199x)
2 = 1992
S = Thunderbird
P = Service Parts Division

The Tbird used the AOD from 88-93. After that it used the 4r70W.

The upper intake uses the same setup as the 94-95 Mustang. Yours is missing the grommet for the TV cable by the looks of it. Should look something like this...



Also, the 92 cast into the bell housing is just a casting number. Ignore it.

I dont know how the Tbird was pinned, but when swapping an auto with a manual or vice versa in the Mustangs, you may have to repin the O2 sensor harness. Im starting to forget some of that stuff unfortunately so im of little help there.

As for the cam, the 91-92 Tbird used the same grind as the Mustang as far as i know. That doesnt mean thats whats in there tho. The 93 Tbird used the same grind as the 93 Cobra.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
F2SP :) :) :)

thanks!

Does this tag only apply to the trans, or does this mean the engine is also 1992? It looks like they have never been separated (the spark plug wires say 1993 but they could have came from anywhere)

Doing a compression test this weekend. Should I do a trans rebuild or just throw it in and see how it goes? Whats the chances of it being bad? (ways to test?)

I don't know any of the history of this engine, and my uncle is a lil off in his memory so I can't trust what he says about the car it came out of. I think I remember him working on a thunderbird about 10-12 years ago, it may have been sitting in his garage this whole time. I think it was a rear-end wreck, and he used a donor to repair. This engine might have came out of the donor. not sure.

---------- Post added at 01:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:38 PM ----------

regarding the cam- the intake mani lower is easily accessible. If i pull it, is there any identification to see if it is the cobra cam?

---------- Post added at 01:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:45 PM ----------

Found this- https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/standard-ho-cam-versus-93-cobra-cam.502538/
 

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regarding the cam- the intake mani lower is easily accessible. If i pull it, is there any identification to see if it is the cobra cam?[/url]
Ive never done it myself, but you can figure it out using a degree wheel, OR pull the cam and measure the base circle and lobe using calipers, and then subtract the two measurements to find the lift. All i know are the cam specs and the part #.

To help figure out what the engine itself is out of, look for a flat spot just behind the lower intake with some numbers and letters on it. Thats the partial VIN of the vehicle it came out of. Should be two letters and six numbers. Look around the area circled in the pic below.



93 Tbird partial VIN examples:
PHxxxxxx
PAxxxxxx
PYxxxxxx

The letter "P" is the year (1993). The second letter are assembly plants listed on the TCCOA website for Tbirds/Cougars.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I didn't notice a plate/ number when we tore it down this weekend, but i will check again next weekend- thanks for that info :) .

The compression test (with oil in pan + drip in cyl, no fuel, upper intake removed, cold obviously) showed:

cylinder #2 was at 180? (tested 3x)
Cylinder #5 & #7 (neighbors) were at 80 :(
the rest ~165

For the two bad cylinders- i saw no signs of gasket leak between the cyl's, and exhaust valve seats were kinda pitted but not bad. cylinder walls looked very nice. are these hydraulic lifters known to stick low? otherwise i cant explain the low compression.

i might have dripped too much oil in the high cylinder, not too worried about that one.

i could still see a clear hatch pattern in all the cylinders, so engine must be fairly low miles :) no scratches.
if all the crank bearings felt tight, should i not replace them? I haven't removed crank or cam yet to inspect for wear.

Plans moving forward are: full gasket kit plus timing chain and piston rings. new exhaust valves. Then cross fingers that the low compression is fixed... sound good?

Should i bother with port matching/ removing the bump for air injection? do i need to weld/ fill this hole?

He doesn't care about performance as much as smooth idle/ driving and reliability
 
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