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I've recently picked up a 1994 GT 5-Speed that i cant get the engine light to turn off. I've tried just about everything I can think of, so im seeing if you guys have any ideas. For starters, I picked up a code reader at orilley's and the codes I keep pulling during the key on engine running test are, 314 - thermactor air system/fault during engine run self-test / left side, 311 - thermactor air system fault during engine run self-test, 332 insufficient EGR flow detected.
Ok so with that said, I have sense replaced both O2's with brand new bosch units - I did this twice per side thinking I may have got a defective one so I got them swapped, but still can't get rid of the Thermactor codes. I put in a brand new EGR valve, and a brand new EGR position sensor. replaced the vacuum line running from the EGR to the tree under the air intake tube. Replaced the Idle Air Control Valve. Replaced the canister purge valve and corresponding hoses. I cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner spray. Cleaned all my sensor connections with electronics cleaner spray. Also while I was at it did a full tune up, changed oil and filter, changed plugs with new motorcraft plugs, changed out the wires, put in a new PCV valve, installed a new fuel filter, new air filter (stock intake), and changed all the thick vacuum lines that go to the intake manifold. I also installed a new ignition coil and put in a brand new (not a remanufacture) richporter distributor from oriellys with the timing set to the stock 10 degrees.
Even after all of that, and multiple computer resets the same three codes pop up every time and my engine light still comes on after about a mile of driving.
So the final thing I have done to try and rule it out was got a short belt and bypassed the smog pump, ive left everything connected so that i dont have any leaks in the system, and it is my understanding that this is ok as theres one check valves on the pump so if its not spinning they dont open? Correct me if im wrong.
After the smog bypass, same three codes pop up. Also, the cats on both sides of the engine closest to the O2 sensors have been cut out with metal exaust pipe welded inplace so I know the lack of cats there shouldnt be choking the O2's.
Aside from the first two cats being deleted the car is bone stock. Factory mufflers and all.
What could I be missing here? With brand new O2's I still get the O2 codes, and with a brand new EGR and EGR sensor I still get the EGR code.
Car drives excelent and accelerates smooth and strong, it never bogs or chugs or anything like that when i give it gas. The only strange thing I get every now and then is at idle, which im assuming is from the engine light throwing the computer off, some days idles perfect, some days it will have a very slight studder, some days it will stall at idle, then start right back up, even when it does do this if I floor it it'll get up and go like a champ, but the idle issues are intermittant and sometimes i can go for a few days without them happening at all.
Can't pass inspection with this damn light on so trying to figure this thing out.
Ok so with that said, I have sense replaced both O2's with brand new bosch units - I did this twice per side thinking I may have got a defective one so I got them swapped, but still can't get rid of the Thermactor codes. I put in a brand new EGR valve, and a brand new EGR position sensor. replaced the vacuum line running from the EGR to the tree under the air intake tube. Replaced the Idle Air Control Valve. Replaced the canister purge valve and corresponding hoses. I cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner spray. Cleaned all my sensor connections with electronics cleaner spray. Also while I was at it did a full tune up, changed oil and filter, changed plugs with new motorcraft plugs, changed out the wires, put in a new PCV valve, installed a new fuel filter, new air filter (stock intake), and changed all the thick vacuum lines that go to the intake manifold. I also installed a new ignition coil and put in a brand new (not a remanufacture) richporter distributor from oriellys with the timing set to the stock 10 degrees.
Even after all of that, and multiple computer resets the same three codes pop up every time and my engine light still comes on after about a mile of driving.
So the final thing I have done to try and rule it out was got a short belt and bypassed the smog pump, ive left everything connected so that i dont have any leaks in the system, and it is my understanding that this is ok as theres one check valves on the pump so if its not spinning they dont open? Correct me if im wrong.
After the smog bypass, same three codes pop up. Also, the cats on both sides of the engine closest to the O2 sensors have been cut out with metal exaust pipe welded inplace so I know the lack of cats there shouldnt be choking the O2's.
Aside from the first two cats being deleted the car is bone stock. Factory mufflers and all.
What could I be missing here? With brand new O2's I still get the O2 codes, and with a brand new EGR and EGR sensor I still get the EGR code.
Car drives excelent and accelerates smooth and strong, it never bogs or chugs or anything like that when i give it gas. The only strange thing I get every now and then is at idle, which im assuming is from the engine light throwing the computer off, some days idles perfect, some days it will have a very slight studder, some days it will stall at idle, then start right back up, even when it does do this if I floor it it'll get up and go like a champ, but the idle issues are intermittant and sometimes i can go for a few days without them happening at all.
Can't pass inspection with this damn light on so trying to figure this thing out.
