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Discussion Starter #1
Took two days to finish. I really have to thank some of the members on this section cause the method really worked. I'm sorry if I asked questions that I could have answered myself if I checked out the stickies :p

Man the hardest thing was doing it in such a cold weather. I seriously had to stop and get some rubber gloves 'cause I could not feel anything with my hands 15min into detailing. I have a garage but it's one of those open ones so....:(

Wash
Claybar
Wash
m105
m205
Wolfgang Body Wrap

For the wheels I used Sonax cleaner and Purple degreaser

BTW this is not my car. it's a friend's and it has NOT been washed for a long time.

BEFORE:





AFTER:










It had some kind of...tar? on the side skirts and it was PITA getting them off with the compound/orbital but it worked. :( used up two of each cyan and tangerine pads

 

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Discussion Starter #2
I just washed the mf. There are som black spots that won't come off no matter how much I wash it.....is this safe to reuse?

How do you guys manage to do full details like this(those of you who do this for a living). I am just so physically tired and I feel like no one can pay me enough to do this.
 

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It'll buff out...
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5,379 Posts
I just washed the mf. There are som black spots that won't come off no matter how much I wash it.....is this safe to reuse?

How do you guys manage to do full details like this(those of you who do this for a living). I am just so physically tired and I feel like no one can pay me enough to do this.
Gotta build up those muscles my man! :p. Looks great Btw.

Edit: once one of my microfibers gets black stains they get designated as tire/trim wipes. Not sure if they're safe to use again on paint but I doubt it. Honestly, if its not spotless or almost spotless I wouldn't go near paint with it. Better safe than sorry. Btw it always helps to wash them immediately after you see they are stained.
 

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Happy Man
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2,472 Posts
Took two days to finish. I really have to thank some of the members on this section cause the method really worked. I'm sorry if I asked questions that I could have answered myself if I checked out the stickies :p

Man the hardest thing was doing it in such a cold weather. I seriously had to stop and get some rubber gloves 'cause I could not feel anything with my hands 15min into detailing. I have a garage but it's one of those open ones so....:(

Wash
Claybar
Wash
m105
m205
Wolfgang Body Wrap

For the wheels I used Sonax cleaner and Purple degreaser

BTW this is not my car. it's a friend's and it has NOT been washed for a long time.







It had some kind of...tar? on the side skirts and it was PITA getting them off with the compound/orbital but it worked. :( used up two of each cyan and tangerine pads

Congrats man and welcome to it. Looks very good. It's an exhausting thing even if you are used to it lol. Lot's of time and work put into a correction.

The cyan pads last for about no time at all in my personal experience. I did a car and a half and mine were pretty much blown out. I have had really good results with the tangerines though. I think I have done a vehicle and a half on 1 pad and it still looks brand new. Just make sure to keep them clean and from getting caked up with product for consistent results and pad integrity. Mind you I have never had pad failure like that but that thing looks dirrrrtttyyyyyyy. That probably didn't help lol. Get some APC (all purpose cleaner) for future use and try and get that crap off prior to polishing it.

I did my correction in the past couple weeks in Michigan Cold man. . . I know where you are coming from. Products don't work like they normally do and it's freezing but once I get going and get into some music and in the zone I usually quickly forget about the weather. I always wear nitrile gloves. Just to keep the chemicals out of my skin.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks everyone.

Yes I will definitely need to get some gloves. Is there a way to keep the hose from freezing? Im worried as it gets colder i might not be able to use it half way into detailing.

I realized the compound/polish gets every once iy dries....any recommendation on the kind of fabric i can use to cover the car?
 

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Not a Vert
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Gotta build up those muscles my man! :p. Looks great Btw.

Edit: once one of my microfibers gets black stains they get designated as tire/trim wipes. Not sure if they're safe to use again on paint but I doubt it. Honestly, if its not spotless or almost spotless I wouldn't go near paint with it. Better safe than sorry. Btw it always helps to wash them immediately after you see they are stained.
Look's good! and +1 to designating them tire and trim MF's :lol. I alway's had a ridiculous amount of tar buildup on the back fenders of my Jeep. Bug n Tar remover :bubba:
 

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Happy Man
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2,472 Posts
Thanks everyone.

Yes I will definitely need to get some gloves. Is there a way to keep the hose from freezing? Im worried as it gets colder i might not be able to use it half way into detailing.

I realized the compound/polish gets every once iy dries....any recommendation on the kind of fabric i can use to cover the car?
Good luck not getting your hose to freeze, lol. Just buy some Ultima Waterless Wash+. That way you won't need a hose. It's basically just a rinseless wash and it works great for washing without a hose.

The compound/polish gets what? "gets every once iy dries". What do ya mean?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It gets everywhere. Like when the stuff dries, man it gets on the sections Ive already worked on...I'm having to clean it with a mf :(. The most annoying thing is getting the seams and the plastic trims between doors...it just gets so white it's annoying to go over all of them at the end.

I think I got the main concept down.....I just don't know how to do it efficiently.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Is it safe to use a toothbrush to get the stuff between cracks after the correction is done? won't it scratch the paint?


Also you mentioned earlier I should get the APC...isn't that like a degreaser? I always thought degreaser was too aggressive to put it on paint...and I still don't think the tar stuff would have came out with anything.....it was super hardened




I think I got lucky with the color of this car....it was strange but I could hardly find any swirls/scratches before doing the correction. Usually you can see a lot under direct sunlight but that did nothing. Flashlights didn't do anything. I feel like I haven't really done any "correction" other than the tar spots and minor scratches here and there.
 

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Is it safe to use a toothbrush to get the stuff between cracks after the correction is done? won't it scratch the paint?


Also you mentioned earlier I should get the APC...isn't that like a degreaser? I always thought degreaser was too aggressive to put it on paint...and I still don't think the tar stuff would have came out with anything.....it was super hardened
If you are having trouble with tar invest in some Stoners Tarminator, you can typically get 3 cans for about $15 about autogeek, and it is safe on paint.

Degreaser is too aggressive for paint in concentrated form, look to dilute the solution. For paint work I typically have mine set to a 10:1 ratio.

As far as the polish in between the crevices invest in a good detailing brush, but I guess toothbrush would suffice. And when you go to remove the polish make sure you use a lot of lubrication. And next time tape up those areas so you will not have that problem again.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you are having trouble with tar invest in some Stoners Tarminator, you can typically get 3 cans for about $15 about autogeek, and it is safe on paint.

Degreaser is too aggressive for paint in concentrated form, look to dilute the solution. For paint work I typically have mine set to a 10:1 ratio.

As far as the polish in between the crevices invest in a good detailing brush, but I guess toothbrush would suffice. And when you go to remove the polish make sure you use a lot of lubrication. And next time tape up those areas so you will not have that problem again.
Ohh okay. Because the thing is I never really had tar problem until this car....so I didn't really have any product in hand.

Yes I was taping when I first started but I quickly ran out of tape ...man detailing properly is no joke!
 

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Ohh okay. Because the thing is I never really had tar problem until this car....so I didn't really have any product in hand.

Yes I was taping when I first started but I quickly ran out of tape ...man detailing properly is no joke!
It also becomes very addicting mad expensive because you are always finding some new products you want to try out and buy. And the Tarminator is awesome, I also use it on my tires to help remove old tire dressing.

Also you said you were having trouble finding swirls and such, do you own any 1000w halogens?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No sir...I am guessing I will have to get that too. Do I just get the bulb? is it something I can find at a local store?
 

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Obsessed Detailer
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8,609 Posts
Congrats man and welcome to it. Looks very good. It's an exhausting thing even if you are used to it lol. Lot's of time and work put into a correction.

The cyan pads last for about no time at all in my personal experience. I did a car and a half and mine were pretty much blown out. I have had really good results with the tangerines though. I think I have done a vehicle and a half on 1 pad and it still looks brand new. Just make sure to keep them clean and from getting caked up with product for consistent results and pad integrity. Mind you I have never had pad failure like that but that thing looks dirrrrtttyyyyyyy. That probably didn't help lol. Get some APC (all purpose cleaner) for future use and try and get that crap off prior to polishing it.

I did my correction in the past couple weeks in Michigan Cold man. . . I know where you are coming from. Products don't work like they normally do and it's freezing but once I get going and get into some music and in the zone I usually quickly forget about the weather. I always wear nitrile gloves. Just to keep the chemicals out of my skin.
Buff n Shine pads FTW, they are super durable and are great on edges and curves.

It gets everywhere. Like when the stuff dries, man it gets on the sections Ive already worked on...I'm having to clean it with a mf :(. The most annoying thing is getting the seams and the plastic trims between doors...it just gets so white it's annoying to go over all of them at the end.

I think I got the main concept down.....I just don't know how to do it efficiently.
Its called dusting, m105 will do it no matter what you do, but if 205 does it ALOT then you are probably being a little generous with the polish, once your pad is primed with product you only need about 3 drops of polish the size of a dime to work on a 2 square foot area. Or 5 drops the size of a pea if you wanna spread it out on the pad more.

Is it safe to use a toothbrush to get the stuff between cracks after the correction is done? won't it scratch the paint?


Also you mentioned earlier I should get the APC...isn't that like a degreaser? I always thought degreaser was too aggressive to put it on paint...and I still don't think the tar stuff would have came out with anything.....it was super hardened




I think I got lucky with the color of this car....it was strange but I could hardly find any swirls/scratches before doing the correction. Usually you can see a lot under direct sunlight but that did nothing. Flashlights didn't do anything. I feel like I haven't really done any "correction" other than the tar spots and minor scratches here and there.
Its because of the metallic flake in the paint, hides defects like crazy, believe it or not the flash on your cell phone will review swirls on metallic really well, just do it at night or in a dark garage.

It also becomes very addicting mad expensive because you are always finding some new products you want to try out and buy. And the Tarminator is awesome, I also use it on my tires to help remove old tire dressing.

Also you said you were having trouble finding swirls and such, do you own any 1000w halogens?
1000w halogens would be good but its the metal flake in that paint, i have a friend with a GMC truck that is metallic pewter colored, hard as hell to see defects, even with a worklight.

No sir...I am guessing I will have to get that too. Do I just get the bulb? is it something I can find at a local store?
Just go to lowes or homedepot and get hte cheap 30 dollar double worklight. Itll work on most paints, but i suggest getting a handheld inspection light as well. I have a brinkman dual xenon inspection light that actually shows swirls better than my 1000w worklight, its not about how much light sometimes, its the pattern and concentration of light that can help see swirls and marring.

Not to shabby on your first job man, welcome to the obsession..

BTW, Buff n Shine pads from Autoality.com, they are cheaper and last WAY longer than the hydrotechs. They also are thicker and are made with "open celled" foam instead of the closed cell that the hydrotechs are, this will allow more product to soak into the pad which will help with dusting.
 

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Hoodrat
Joined
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77 Posts
Took two days to finish. I really have to thank some of the members on this section cause the method really worked. I'm sorry if I asked questions that I could have answered myself if I checked out the stickies :p

Man the hardest thing was doing it in such a cold weather. I seriously had to stop and get some rubber gloves 'cause I could not feel anything with my hands 15min into detailing. I have a garage but it's one of those open ones so....:(

Wash
Claybar
Wash
m105
m205
Wolfgang Body Wrap

For the wheels I used Sonax cleaner and Purple degreaser

BTW this is not my car. it's a friend's and it has NOT been washed for a long time.

BEFORE:





AFTER:










It had some kind of...tar? on the side skirts and it was PITA getting them off with the compound/orbital but it worked. :( used up two of each cyan and tangerine pads

Looks great! I love having a clean car to drive around.
 

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Potato
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Obsessed Detailer
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8,609 Posts
Iv'e heard about this a few places... if it broke would you buy it again?
Oh hell yea man, i freakin love my Brinkman, there are A LOT of times that the spotlights concentration of light help show defects that are hard to see even under a worklight. A light source that is concentrated into a spot light helps make swirls more apparent to the naked eye- 1 because its concentrated, and 2 because you are able to hold the light at different angles and positions, which is something you cant really do with a worklight.

Its my go to when i correct, IMO it shows just as much, if not more, defects than the worklight, plus its lightweight, doesnt get hot, so much easier to work with, stupid bright.
 
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