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Mechanical Engineer
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought my car almost a month ago. bought it during the warm part of the day. next morning it was cold and the car wouldn't start until, i WOT'd it. I had to let it warm up for a few minutes otherwise it just fell on its face with much throttle at all. I know it's running too rich but not what to do about it. It came with an SCT tuner with two custom Blow by racing tunes on it. One was an emissions tune and the other was a 93 octane (race?) tune.

The previous owner told me the 93 tune was for use without the cats so I thought removing the cats would fix this. I removed the cats a couple weeks ago and it still acts the same if not worse. I also seemed to lose a couple mpg after removing them as well. was getting 25 on highway and 17 in city. now getting 21 max and as low as 11mpg. those numbers are average numbers over 10 min drives and not brief WOT accelerations.

I didn't buy the car for fuel efficiency but with a drop like this I think something is wrong. car just doesn't sound quite right. Sounds better after about 5 min of driving but still makes me think something isnt right. exaust sounds more like poppy ta ta ta ta than the smooth roar i want at some rpms

Anyways, the cats are staying off unless Oklahoma starts doing emissions testing. I've been debating just getting another email tune from someone else. Should I just do that first or does someone have a suggestion of what may be wrong?

Who should I go to for my email tune? I need input.

I have a bit of money so I don't mind excuses to improve my car with replacement performance parts. I was hoping to at least get my headers before tuning though. damn cold weather makes me lazy.
 

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I love to skydive
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Put the stock one back on.

Wot on start up shouldn't change anything as its a drive by wire. Not a cable connection.


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Actually starting the car with the pedal to the floor is cutting the fuel off. This is a feature that you use when your motor is flooded and you need to clear the cylinders. If you need to do this to start your car that means that you are running way rich on start up. This can be adjusted in the tune. It smelling like a boat is another sign that you're getting too much fuel.

You might be able to get BBR to adjust the tunes for you but they might want to charge you since you're not the original purchaser. You can always go with Bama tuning at American Muscle. Or there are plenty other e-mail tunes you could use. I've used Bama, BBR and Lund Racing for e-mail tunes with good success.

Do you have the stock intake and MAF housing or is it an aftermarket unit? Could be that it was tuned for a different intake.
 
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Mechanical Engineer
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
if I kill it by trying to drive before it's warmed up, the only way to start it is with WOT. starts up immediately then. Thanks for the info Boss, I was curious why that worked with it being flooded since you would think it would just make it worse. I think it was mikefitz that suggested i try it the day i was stranded.

I have a rather large JLT CAI and MAF. not sure of the model because I haven't seen it for sale. I guess it's possible that he bought the tuner and tunes before the intake....
 

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If you go bigger on the CAI without a tune you would tend to run lean, not rich. I think your open loop fuel tables need to be adjusted. Talk to your tuner for the adjustment or go with a completely new tune.

These cars tend to be cold blooded anyways. Even before I installed my S/C it stumbled pretty good until it warmed up. Now with the Whipple on there I can't even begin to drive until the cylinder temp gauge starts to move. Some cold mornings that can be as long as 5 minutes.
 

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Mechanical Engineer
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was going to write a new post, but i decided to just add on to my old one.

Summary of earlier:
since buying this car, if it was cold outside, my car had to run for about a minute after startup before driving. If i didn't let it warm up it would stall out and then be impossible to start without WOT(cuts off the fuel) followed by keeping the RPMs high until it reached closed loop.

I was just going to wait until it got warm knowing it was probably a bad tune and get a new tune with some mods this summer thus fixing the issue.

But, over the last few days, my initial idle has become worse. It now on cold startup idles with surges between 300-800rms? (estimate) and then dies. I can only restart it with WOT. I might try to get a video of it later.

My question is, do I have a worse problem than just a bad tune? It runs fine once i get it to closed loop. I just can't figure out why my problem has gotten worse. I'm still using a BlowbyRacing 93 octane tune. The same tune that I was using when i bought the car. I have re-flashed the tune before and have re-flashed it since. I did not change anything the night before the problem got worse(including reflashing). It wasn't even as cold of a morning as it has been before.

I keep thinking I may have fouled plugs from running rich on startups but would my car run as good as it does in closed loop with bad plugs? I do plan on changing plugs as soon as it warms up. With all the stories of people breaking plugs off, I'd like to have nice weather in case I have to spend all weekend pulling a head in a worse case scenario.

For those of you that have experience in this, thanks in advance for the help.

For those of you that don't know what the hell you are talking about... Just keep your grubby little fingers off that keyboard :)
 

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Hardon Enthusiast
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how many miles are on your car? one of the first things I did was pull my plugs when I got my car. 2 reasons, I dont want to spend 100 dollars on the tool because I let them go too long and get stuck in there and I wanted to see how they looked from the previous owner. It had some mods already and you can never be too sure about other people. Keep up with them and pull them every so often and you wont have to worry about them breaking. You can also look at how they are burning and usually tell if its running too rich or lean. If need be you can download the livelink program from SCTflash.com and get some datalogging in for BBR to decypher.
 

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That was funny. Didn't look at the date and read your initial post. Then read the first response. Said to myself while reading it, "Hey this guy actually knows what he is talking about," and looked at the screen name, "oh, it's me." lol

Anyways bro, yeah, if you have been running rich this whole time you could have easily fouled the plugs. Or at least gummed them up enough where they're not working right. How many miles on the plugs? You know if that's the issue I would be extra careful on the plug change. This carbon build up is the reason why these plugs get their barrels stuck in the holes and break. Do you drive the car hard at all? When was the last time you really opened her up? Not that I'm suggesting anything that might lead to you do anything dangerous, but I'm a firm believer that you have to clear your throat every once in a while to keep things running smoothly. Get cylinder temps up there and burn some of that off.

Have you had your tune adjusted yet? I would do that before changing the plugs. It might run better for a while but...
 

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I was going to write a new post, but i decided to just add on to my old one.

Summary of earlier:
since buying this car, if it was cold outside, my car had to run for about a minute after startup before driving. If i didn't let it warm up it would stall out and then be impossible to start without WOT(cuts off the fuel) followed by keeping the RPMs high until it reached closed loop.

I was just going to wait until it got warm knowing it was probably a bad tune and get a new tune with some mods this summer thus fixing the issue.

But, over the last few days, my initial idle has become worse. It now on cold startup idles with surges between 300-800rms? (estimate) and then dies. I can only restart it with WOT. I might try to get a video of it later.

My question is, do I have a worse problem than just a bad tune? It runs fine once i get it to closed loop. I just can't figure out why my problem has gotten worse. I'm still using a BlowbyRacing 93 octane tune. The same tune that I was using when i bought the car. I have re-flashed the tune before and have re-flashed it since. I did not change anything the night before the problem got worse(including reflashing). It wasn't even as cold of a morning as it has been before.

I keep thinking I may have fouled plugs from running rich on startups but would my car run as good as it does in closed loop with bad plugs? I do plan on changing plugs as soon as it warms up. With all the stories of people breaking plugs off, I'd like to have nice weather in case I have to spend all weekend pulling a head in a worse case scenario.

For those of you that have experience in this, thanks in advance for the help.

For those of you that don't know what the hell you are talking about... Just keep your grubby little fingers off that keyboard :)

I know you touched on it, but Are you sure you have the correct tune for the CAI? Have you checked for vacuum leaks? I had some cold start and idle issues due to a leak, and not a big one either.

Also it can't hurt to clean the MAF sensor, after that, there are some start/idle dashpot settings that can be tweaked in the tune.

I had to have my tuner tweak my tune 3X's after I installed headers. It still ain't as right as the stock manifolds but it's acceptable.
 

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Insomniac
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If it were me I'd return the tune to stock, then use the strategy tune option and enter the mods you have, and go from there, if that doesn't fix the issue then obviously its not the tune.
 

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Mechanical Engineer
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
92k miles on the car. I've put 3k on it since buying it. No idea how long these plugs were in. I had planned on changing them anyways.

Previous owner told me that the tune was made for the x-pipe in offroad setup and with the intake and MAF. It has a JLT intake an MAF. I cleaned the filter a couple months ago. MAF looked pristine then.

My SCT x3 always gives me an error when i try to do a strategy tune. says strategy tune not supported or something like that. IDK, came with the car.

07 Boss, I get on it with every vehicle that i have ever owned. I don't abuse my cars but I do tend to driver fairly aggressively during my 20 minute highway commute to and from work.

To explain a little further on my symptoms. it will act just fine for the first couple seconds after startup. but after a few seconds it goes to the chug/surges that will kill the car if i don't manually give it some throttle and keep the rpms higher.

One other issue that may be of interest that i haven't thought about before, I have been getting a check charging system message off and on since buying the car. I never though much about it since my battery never goes dead and I hadn't noticed any symptoms. Today I was reading a 2007 workshop manual and it mentioned checking the charging system as one of them checks if having stalls after a startup. I might have an issue with my charging system kicking in too hard?
 

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Mechanical Engineer
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
started up just fine for the drive home from work. was about 71 degrees outside at the time. I'll try to remember to get a video in the morning.
 

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Mechanical Engineer
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I got a video after work today. I'll try to get another in the morning.

Open loop problem 2006 gt - YouTube

Right before it died, i tried to give it gas and keep it running. fail.

Then i had to WOT to start it and keep giving it gas to keep it running. I was leaving work so I was trying not to be obnoxious with the throttle.

Weird though, it has ran fine the last few days until this morning.
 

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92k miles on the car. I've put 3k on it since buying it. No idea how long these plugs were in. I had planned on changing them anyways.

Previous owner told me that the tune was made for the x-pipe in offroad setup and with the intake and MAF. It has a JLT intake an MAF. I cleaned the filter a couple months ago. MAF looked pristine then.

My SCT x3 always gives me an error when i try to do a strategy tune. says strategy tune not supported or something like that. IDK, came with the car.

07 Boss, I get on it with every vehicle that i have ever owned. I don't abuse my cars but I do tend to driver fairly aggressively during my 20 minute highway commute to and from work.

To explain a little further on my symptoms. it will act just fine for the first couple seconds after startup. but after a few seconds it goes to the chug/surges that will kill the car if i don't manually give it some throttle and keep the rpms higher.

One other issue that may be of interest that i haven't thought about before, I have been getting a check charging system message off and on since buying the car. I never though much about it since my battery never goes dead and I hadn't noticed any symptoms. Today I was reading a 2007 workshop manual and it mentioned checking the charging system as one of them checks if having stalls after a startup. I might have an issue with my charging system kicking in too hard?

Replace the alternator.
 

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FBGM
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6,177 Posts
+1 on that open the car up every once in awhile, one of my friends had a check engine light in his explorer and because its suck a pig on gas he drives like a grandma, and he never drove on the highway, I cleared the code, he drove for a week, code came back, we did a couple Wot pulls after I cleared the code again and it never came back, you might want to try some fuel add.that cleans the engine in your next tank of gas, also where you get your gas could be a problem, I never take my mustang to any places but big names gas stores for 93
 

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It also helps to look for major stations that have individual pumps for each octane level. On single pumps, when someone pumps 87, theres still some left in the hose when you go to pump 93. So if you pump a full tank, it will still dilute your gas a bit, but not nearly as much as if you were to only put 5 or 6 gallons in. There are a bunch of shells and exxons that still have triple pump setups.


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