cheap 2000 3.8L 5-speed convertible build and problems

2310 Views 24 Replies 4 Participants Last post by quikstang2, 2 mo ago

quikstang2

Discussion Starter · May 8, 2018

I've had 5 fox bodies and said I would never get another Mustang. I have had three 3.8L cars and said I would never get another one. I've also had two convertibles (Mustang & Miata) and said I would never get another one.

Well... a 3.8L convertible 5-speed popped up locally for $500 and I bought it last night. (Will someone please buy it from me?) It fought us. It really wanted to sit in that spot on the dude's driveway until it rotted away, but I refused to let it die, for now. It's been a few months since I sold my second car and I've been incessantly looking for something else, but I don't have much cash to spend. I wanted something I was somewhat familiar with so I wasn't learning something completely new. The goal with this car was to have something I could register and insure when my brother is on leave so he has something to drive. I also needed something that they would let me autocross. (They won't allow the Jeep.) I don't know what other racing I will get into, if anything, but I'm starting at the lowest barrier to entry for now. I know it's not the ideal car to start with, but I couldn't argue with the price.

Current known issues:
-silver paint flaking off (does this count as mange?)
-won't crank when the key turns to start (I think there is a bad ground, had something similar with the Miata)
-PO said the fuel sender is bad
-air bag covering is cracked (I'm hoping the Ranger airbag bolts in)
-brakes are essentially locked up and rusted
-top came unstitched above the glass rear window (I'll probably just keep the top down)
-shifter needs a rebuild
-a couple little rust spots and other general issues you'd find in an 18 year old car that hasn't been maintained

It fought us all last night, so I didn't end up getting pictures. I'll take some tonight. Any tips, tricks, or links you have for the problems I've listed, I'll appreciate the help. Otherwise, I'll start searching and reading after work. I just wanted to get the build thread introduced.

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quikstang2

Discussion Starter · #2 · May 10, 2018

I got a battery cable repair kit for the ground cable at O'Reilly, since the positive looks good enough for now. I might chop that end off and repair it soon too. I got slightly further with it. I heard a relay pop when I tried to start it, and then everything was fairly dead after that. Prior to that, the mileage displayed and a lot of the other warning lights behaved normally, which they weren't really doing before. So I think there's still a bad ground somewhere, or I need to clean those cables some more. Also, I'm pretty sure I heard the fuel sender running. So that might not be bad.

As promised, I got a picture of the car. It's cramped in the garage with all the house renovations going on, so this is the best I can do for now.

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quikstang2

Discussion Starter · #3 · May 18, 2018

I took the radio (and facory CD player) out. A couple days later I hooked the battery up for some reason and now it's turning over. I haven't gotten it to fire, but I've made progress by doing nothing. Weird, right?

quikstang2

Discussion Starter · #4 · May 21, 2018

I finally got someone to lend a hand with starter fluid, and it ran! I'll be going through the fuel system electrical this week, and investigating the condition of the fuel system itself.

I have no idea it went from the relay shutting down the circuit to running without me making any changes. Truly bizarre.

Mrvince

· #5 · May 29, 2018

I had an issue with a 99 mustang I purchased no crank, and no start condition. It ended up being the fuel pump driver module, and the fuel pump was bad along with an aftermarket anti-theft system. I replaced both and removed the aftermarket anti-theft, and I have had no issues ever since. However the car sits most of the time now. Good luck getting it running.

quikstang2

Discussion Starter · #6 · Oct 18, 2018

Forgot to check in... The car runs. All I changed was the fuel pump. There might be an electrical drain somewhere, and a bad ground or two. This thing is much rustier than it should be.

Anyways, I'll post back when I get some other things cleaned up. I'm looking at what a 5.0 (SBF) swap would take right now.

quikstang2

Discussion Starter · #7 · 2 mo ago

It's been a while... car has been sitting (inside a garage since I've owned it). I did get it running, there was a code (I don't remember what it is now) and it stumbled on throttle.

Some friends came over last weekend to help go through the car a bit because my daily is wrecked, and it was a birthday party hang out. Given the rust on it... I've got more parts/fasteners to hunt down this week. The most difficult one to replace might be a fuel injector retaining clip, probably at a junkyard. There are a couple other screws/bolts I'll be on the look out for.
We got the fuel system cleaned up and all the old varnished fuel cleaned out. One injector was dead, and another was not great, so I have to replace those. Also have to get a whole new fuel pump assembly. The old one is cracking apart.

We started on the brakes. The slide pins had rusted themselves solid, but I got them out with fire and hammers. Pad clips were missing in the rear. All the pads are pretty much new, so I'll run them for a bit to get all the rust knocked off the rotors, and then put on the new set I got later. I had bled them by myself before, but I'll probably do that again with help once the rest of it is sorted out. I've got a handful of bolts, clips and boots to replace before I get to that point. For fun, we decided to paint the caliper brackets only (blue). If we end up having to do the calipers (and/or lines) later on, we'll paint those red, for fun. We were endlessly entertained by all the weight reduction that happened while we knocked bolts loose. (Read: It was raining rust flakes.)

A friend who has never worked on cars dismantled the entire interior and started the cleaning process on that. One of the passenger seat bolts was broken prior to me getting the car, so I'll have to solve that problem. I am looking for a manual driver seat swap solution. The bracket riveted to the floor behind the hand brake had two broken rivets, and the third did not put up a fight when I pulled on it. We had a good laugh there. I am debating on running without an interior, at least for a while, since the window is falling out of the convertible top anyway, and the cheapest replacement top is worth as much as the car.

I'll be cleaning up as much body rust as I can while things are apart and I am waiting on parts. Maybe one day I'll own one of those mythical "rust free Florida cars" I've heard so much about.

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charlesespenshade

· #8 · 2 mo ago

I did an old school 5.0L swap. It's a carb setup and not much will hang with it. I went extremely crazy with it though. He's putting 450-500 hp out. I still have a way to go and a few kinks but he will put you back in your seat.

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charlesespenshade

· #9 · 2 mo ago

You have to find a 5.0L subframe and swap it out. 5.0L won't fit a 3.8L mounts. It's a little work but well worth it. You can use the 3.8L torque converter and 4R70w trans. It bolts right up and you'll be smiling from ear to ear when you step on it. I do 0-60 in 5 seconds or less. 1st gear will shift at 60 mph if you're standing on it, 2nd somewhere between 80-100 mph. You can get a tps for a carb. Keep the plug off the 3.8L and you can tap into it. I power my electric fan and run peer to distributor off of it. I only have a little Carter/AFB 600 cfm. All I need and believe it or not I get good mileage.
I got new 5.0L springs for a '95 from Rock Auto. Rides like you wouldn't believe.

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charlesespenshade

· #10 · 2 mo ago

charlesespenshade said:
I did an old school 5.0L swap. It's a carb setup and not much will hang with it. I went extremely crazy with it though. He's putting 450-500 hp out. I still have a way to go and a few kinks but he will put you back in your seat.

I'm running 40P heads with shorty headers. Fuel pressure regulator set at 7.5 lbs. You need a regulator with a return and you won't have no trouble. Rad and fan are V6. Little trimming needed but it works. I bought a wiring kit I think from Speedway for fan. Works perfectly.

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Victor112487

· #11 · 2 mo ago

1st gen 3.8 are trash 94.5-98.5 weak head gaskets however you have the sn95 body style so therefore you got 10 years worth parts to pull from. The 4.6ltr 289 small block out of the 96-2005 gets work with oe 3.8 motor mounts hence the “modular part” owned multiple 1st gen 3.8 junk so I went with the 00 v6 convertible 5speed

charlesespenshade

· #12 · 2 mo ago

I'm running a '85 5.0L HO block with '97 GT40P heads. That 4.6L is almost as bad as the 3.8L. They make perfect boat anchors though.

charlesespenshade

· #13 · 2 mo ago

I know I'm pushing more HP than a Coyote 5.0L. Plus my 4R70w trans with the 273 rears. I don't care for that 10 speed trans. Wait till you have to rebuild that trans. Hope you got deep pockets.

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charlesespenshade

· #14 · 2 mo ago

Besides sucking good clean cool air I have a few other tricks done to it. The screen helps to vaporize the fuel which distributes it to the cylinders better. Might not add to hp but helps it in a round about way.
Frankenstein is no joke. You want to see what you got? A 150 shot will be added down the line. I have to figure out traction now. I'm not throwing money away on NOS right now.
I'm a disabled 62 yr old. Money still has to pay bills on my disability money.

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Victor112487

· #15 · 2 mo ago

Would never own a gm/ford combo transmission(got to be pc these days) the 4.6 has terrible coolant sensors I love the 4.6 2 valve not 3v not high horse but good enough if I wanted to get extreme I’d put an lsx supercharged engine backed by a 6 speed manual

Victor112487

· #16 · 2 mo ago

I and the v6 can be bullet proofed up to 1000 horse boosted and it’s about 150lbs lighter than ANY v8

charlesespenshade

· #17 · 2 mo ago

Victor112487 said:
Would never own a gm/ford combo transmission(got to be pc these days) the 4.6 has terrible coolant sensors I love the 4.6 2 valve not 3v not high horse but good enough if I wanted to get extreme I’d put an lsx supercharged engine backed by a 6 speed manual

Bring on your 4.6l. You better be good on those gears. My auto won't miss any gears. It will handle what I'm pushing and then some. With that 6 speed what gears are you running?

charlesespenshade

· #18 · 2 mo ago

Victor112487 said:
I and the v6 can be bullet proofed up to 1000 horse boosted and it’s about 150lbs lighter than ANY v8

500 hp tops on that 3.8l. I was going to build my original 3.8l. I decided against it and went with my 5.0L.
Motortrend has an article and they got 460 HP I believe. Won't take much more.

charlesespenshade

· #19 · 2 mo ago

Building a 3.8 L Essex V6 That Makes 557 whp – Engine Swap Depot

engineswapdepot.com

Ok 557 hp.

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Victor112487

· #20 · 2 mo ago

charlesespenshade said:
Bring on your 4.6l. You better be good on those gears. My auto won't miss any gears. It will handle what I'm pushing and then some. With that 6 speed what gears are you running?

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