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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Give or take 2 months ago i noticed my left rear was low. I checked it and it was down to 20psi. The rest were around 25-29. I keep them at 32-34. So i filled it not even thinking to check the tire itself. I will admit i am guilty of not checking pressure and rotation as one should. I dont drive much, and when i do its back and forth to work and i drive like Miss Daisy, so i thought little of it.

Fast forward to yesterday. The left rear was low again. This time it was down to 15. It went from 32-34 to 15 in 2 months. i thought perhaps the cold was the culprit, but that much loss is a lot imo for 2 months. And i had been driving on it! I felt around the tire as well as the backside for any nails, etc.. Nothing. No leaking valve stems. I look between the treads and they are cracking. Just between the treads, not the tread itself or the sidewall. So i filled the tire and drove home, were it will be parked until i can replace all 4. The other three are looking a little low as well. They say the cracking is ozone and natural degradation of the rubber over time. Either way, im buying 4 new tires.

Out of curiousity i checked the dates.

LR - dated 1613 (16th week of 2013)
RR - dated M711 (i didnt know they used letters - March 7, 2011?)
*Both have cracking in between the tread only. The treads arent even worn past the nubs in the grooves.
*Both purchased in 2014.

LF - dated 0414 (4th week of 2014)
RF - dated M711 (again, March 7, 2011?)
*Both have cracking in between the tread. But need replaced anyway as the tread is low. They were on the rear.
*Both purchased in 2014.

The two dated 2011 but purchased in 2014 are not that big a deal to me, but the fact that three of them are from 2011 and it is now 2018, is. They say to replace tires that are 5 years or older. I am cutting it close. If it were not for that single tire losing air so quickly, i probably wouldnt be dealing with this right now. I have a tendancy to procrastinate and flat out forget some things. Old and lazy, i guess.

Do you run BFG? The tires i have now are BFG G-force Super Sport A/S , 225/55r16. They have been discontinued and have been replaced with a BFG G-force Comp-2 A/S. All new tread pattern. They dont look very aggressive, but the reviews so far seem good. Still looking to see if i can find another set to match what i have now. Maybe ill get lucky.

Whatever tires you buy, check the dates. Even if they are new. Old tires can slip thru, and new tires can deteriorate if stored in sunlight and extreme weather changes, dampness, etc.. And once they are mounted, keep tabs on the tire pressure. And check them regularly for any signs of wear or other defects. Tires are more than just chunks of rubber. Ill let you guys and gals Google the rest.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Apparently that M711 isnt the date code afterall. I assumed it was as it was the last set of numbers, where the date codes typically are. But it wasnt. Confused? So was i. The date is for whatever reason stamped on one, but not the other. Wierd.

The date code was on the other side of the tire. Seems that one side of a tire has the date code at the end, and the other side does not. Wierd. And confusing. Just bought some tires to replace these and they have the same M711 on one side, but the date code of 3315 and 3415 on the other (33rd and 34th week of 2015).

According to Google, that M711 is part of the manufacturers code. But havent found out how it breaks down.
 

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That is odd that the 2015 tires are going bad since they're still within range of 5 yrs, IMO. Wondering if they got some kind of chemical on them or something.

With regards to the BFG Comp 2 A/S they are actually a very good tire, I ran them on my SHO and it did very well with them. I have even heard the A/S compound is actually better than the compound they use for summer tires but I can not confirm that, just something I have heard from another SHO owner.

I actually have tires that are getting close to 10 yrs old on my 03, but it has sat in a garage and not moved for basically the last 3 years, and before that did maybe 600 miles a year, plus it was in Florida all of its life till about 2 weeks ago.

Good luck on your next set of tires!
 

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Depends on when the tires were made and how long they sit. Had a set of Michelin's on my 300C. Looked brand new, but were dry rotted to hell and back.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am not aware of driving thru any chemicals. Just water and road salt in Winter. I do park in the sun. That along with not keeping tabs on tire pressure are likely why they wore out so fast. And i dont drive much so it just sits there. One side gets baked at home, and the other at work lol.

I may have found a set of tires for under $350. Same as what i have now. Never mounted. We shall see.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Tires came in today. BFGoodrich Super Sport A/S. Never mounted with stickers. Same as what i have now. All dated mid 2015. No cracks or dry rot. Just a couple spots where something rubbed against them but cant be felt, so i can only assume all is well? I squeezed the sidewalls and they are solid, as are the treads. Didnt see or feel anythig amiss on the inside either. And no nicks in the bead.

$330 shipped.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Bought a manual tire changer from Harbor Freight and did them myself. The bead breaker worked perfect, as did the flat end of the tire bar for removing the tire from the rim. The other end of the tire bar is total crap. The hook to grab the rim is practically non existant, as is the nub that is supposed to keep the tire from moving. It pops right out of the tire and off the rim. Useless. So i had to hire my uncle to help mount them by hand with a couple bars.

Hard work them low profiles are, but we got them done. Didnt nick up the wheels too bad, mostly some red paint transfer from the tire bar. The wheels need some touchups anyway. The underside of the lips needed cleaned BAD (looked like barnacles on a boat). Took them to the shop the next day for balancing and dispose of the old tires. Cost me $80 and change ($330 for the tires + $80 = $410). A set of tires from Tirerack and balancing wouldve come to $515 or so, so i saved quite a bit. Im happy.

For anyone thinking of buying the Harbor Frieght manual tire changer, it is NOT meant for alloys, but can be used. It is meant for steel wheels only. Thinking of buying a Mojolever tire bar, but its pretty expensive for what it is if you dont do this stuff for a living. Only special thing about it are the nylon tips.

Next up is the Cherokee. Thats got steel wheels and the tires have a larger sidewall and softer than the Mustangs, so they shouldnt be much of an issue.
 

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Bought a manual tire changer from Harbor Freight and did them myself. The bead breaker worked perfect, as did the flat end of the tire bar for removing the tire from the rim. The other end of the tire bar is total crap. The hook to grab the rim is practically non existant, as is the nub that is supposed to keep the tire from moving. It pops right out of the tire and off the rim. Useless. So i had to hire my uncle to help mount them by hand with a couple bars.

Hard work them low profiles are, but we got them done. Didnt nick up the wheels too bad, mostly some red paint transfer from the tire bar. The wheels need some touchups anyway. The underside of the lips needed cleaned BAD (looked like barnacles on a boat). Took them to the shop the next day for balancing and dispose of the old tires. Cost me $80 and change ($330 for the tires + $80 = $410). A set of tires from Tirerack and balancing wouldve come to $515 or so, so i saved quite a bit. Im happy.

For anyone thinking of buying the Harbor Frieght manual tire changer, it is NOT meant for alloys, but can be used. It is meant for steel wheels only. Thinking of buying a Mojolever tire bar, but its pretty expensive for what it is if you dont do this stuff for a living. Only special thing about it are the nylon tips.

Next up is the Cherokee. Thats got steel wheels and the tires have a larger sidewall and softer than the Mustangs, so they shouldnt be much of an issue.
Just curious, do shops near you charge significantly more for mount/balance than just balance? I have always been charged between $15 and $20 depending on the shop for mount and balance, including dismount of the old tires. An additional $2? per tire disposed, at most. So that $80 you spent would have covered removal of the old and install of the new as well in my experience.
 
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