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Well after some research i have come to the conclusion i just need to brake down and invest in meth/water injection. I did want to run a more traditional intercooler put its just going to be a pain and my experience with meth,alky, and water injection in the past have been good.

So what do you guys recommend for S-trim running 10lbs on the street and upward of 14 on the dyno and track. I am thinking alky control or one of alcohol injection systems. I have run alky control in the past and had no real problems with it but at the same time wanted something a little simpler. Not a big fan of snow or AEM systems since i think you pay more for the name than any thing.

Also thinking of running two injectors for better coverage but running only mild jet sizes. I am using the meth/water more as a safety net to keep IAT's down and protect ageist bad fuel. Because of this i plan on tuning the car very conservatively (mid to high 400s) and just having the chemical cooler there for good faith.
 

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Id ask this in the boost section of corral dude
 

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i had the snow kit on my import. I ran 24psi and it came in at 10psi, The kit was supper easy, and it came with alot of stuff like warming light for low fluid and boost sensitivity controller for the spray.
 

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Well after some research i have come to the conclusion i just need to brake down and invest in meth/water injection.
Do you have a problem or just anticipating a problem? Just asking, many people run a Vortech with 10-12 with no inter-cooling in the 400-500 range without a problem. Methanol will cool down the intake temps and allow you to tune for more power then you could without it, no argument there, but it should not be "needed" to still have a safe powerful setup. 14 PSI and an methanol specific tune will put you past the safe limit for the stock block unless you have a major restriction like the stock heads or a mismatched combination of parts.

10lbs on the street and upward of 14 on the dyno and track
Why switch pulleys and boost capability for the track and dyno? Put the best you got on there, get it running good and leave it. If you don't want the "full power and boost" capability at all times for some reason, shift earlier, adjust you rev limiter 500 rpm lower or let off the right foot a little. All of those are easier than swapping pulleys.
 

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50shot all day son.




but if your going to do meth, just make sure you have a good controller. I always liked the idea of one that only sprays the meth when your WOT, and above a certan RPM or pounds of boost. that way your not just blasting meth into your motor, when your at 3/4 throttle getting onto the highway.
 

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I've had meth injection on a few buick grand nationals, a typhoon and on my syclone.. love the **** super easy to install and refill

Check out the alky injection section over on turbobuick.com and you'll learn tons of **** trust me.. turbo buick guys live off this ****.

My syclone currently runs 26psi on 91 octane with zero KR... **** works
 

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give me your syclone. naow.
 

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the only one I found local to me was like $20k or something retarded.

But I would like to own a syclone pickup one day
 

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I actually like the second one you posted better because it doesn't have a steering wheel and rims from Mexico but both are lacking the bed cover which is a negative.

I'd sell mine for 9k as it sits.. the paint is turning to **** on it since it just sits in my driveway in the son all day but you can find them cheaper but anything below the 8k mark is gonna need work probably. REmember there was only 2997 of them produced for one year and more then half of them have been crunched up or parted out so some people think there beat to **** truck is worth 20k when it's not.

The rods and pistons are junk.. they used the same **** they used in the standard n/a 4.3 s trucks and the heads are junk. If you swap the vortec heads off a newer style 4.3 you pickup serious power but you have to mill the lower intake and **** for them to fit but plenty of places offer it.

Stock trans are 700r4's with different valve body and **** stalled at 2600 and tend to die if the truck has a nice turbo on it or if you over heat the trans from break boosting too long. The torque(440 oem) + AWD = very hard on the trans lol

Because of the shitty internals (rods and pistons) you have to stay on top of the tune and data log like a mofo before running it hard plus with the changes in season weather wise effects the tune. They are picky but very worth it if you have money
 

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yea, would be fun to haul **** around in it, drive in the snow, but still be decently quick :D

but doesn't sound like they are set up well. have to build them to make anything worth while :(
 

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nah don't have to build them to make power... just have to keep and eye on the tune unlike a mustang where you put it on a dyno, burn a chip and beat it
 

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****ing boner. Some black dude drives a mint typhoon here with typhoon airbrushed on the back all ****ing retarted
 

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i would love to own one some day. but If I go AWD fast truck, I think I want a trailblazer SS
 
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