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oh, no worries. sometimes we overlook the most simple solutions :D
so you got her running again?
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
nope, still too much of a draw ( still crackling on hookup. i did the positive cable first, and then the negative, still crackles ... )
 

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what do you mean by too much draw?

when you try to start it what happens, does the starter just click or does it turn over but not fire?
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
no. i was told by another mustanger that when hooking up the battery, there should be no sparks at all.

but, the sound of crackling is evidence of sparks. so i have a draw somewhere.

and so, i dont have the battery in. because if its that much of a draw to create a crackle, then thats that much draw drawing from my battery, which might be dead the next morning... :crazy
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
im thinking of just putting the battery back in, and seeing how much of a draw it is ...


brb


edit: drizzling, fluff that :crazy
 

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you need to ck it with a multi-meter to see how much amp draw you really have. If you have the ign key on, amp on, or sometimes just the door open or the hood lamp "on" it will spark when you put the cable on. But will it start now with a good battery???????
 

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that will work. use test "e" on pg 10 and connect between the neg battery cable and the battery. Use the 10 amp scale first and be sure and disconnect the hood lamp, close all doors and turn all accessories(radio, heater, etc) OFF.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
still confused ...

the battery case itself reads:

part number: 58-VL
cranking amps @ 32* F: 625
cold cranking amps: 500

and it ( the battery ) doesnt say mAmps ... says amps ... thats where my confusion is ... :dunno
 

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you're not trying to determine the batteries amp draw, but in fact, how many amps are being consumed by the car. A very slight amount of current is always used to power various modules keep alive memories, clock and radio settings, etc...These alone are not enough to drain a battery down overnight. This is the amp draw reading you are trying to obtain by doing test "E".

BUT DOES THE CAR START NOW OR DO YOU STILL HAVE THE NO START ISSUE???????????
 

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lemon said:
still confused ...

the battery case itself reads:

part number: 58-VL
cranking amps @ 32* F: 625
cold cranking amps: 500

and it ( the battery ) doesnt say mAmps ... says amps ... thats where my confusion is ... :dunno
I will try to help you out with parasitic draw. Your battery has 500 CCA(Cold Cranking Amps) That has nothing to do with your problem. The parasitic draw with the car at rest (all computers off no key in the ignition should be less than .5A (amps) The best way to read this is to connect your DVOM (Multimeter) IN SERIES with your neg. battery terminal while the car is at rest. Positive lead to the neg. cable. Neg. lead to the bat terminal. You will generally get a reading of about .5 to 1A or so. Make sure the hood light is disconnected or you will never get a good reading. Give the computers time to go to sleep as they will power up when you complete the connection with your DVOM. Watch the meter it should drop to below .5A as the computers drop offline and go to sleep. I would give it 30 to 45 mins to make sure that all your computers are asleep. If you still have a reading above .5A then you have a problem and I personally would start with the trunk light. They tend to be the most common culprit of parasitic drain. I hope this helps man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
thanks for the explanation slo2go

twist, no i dont have the battery in the car compartment: i had the mustang running on december 30th - this is the date i purchased a new car insurance policy so i could drive my pony around since she has been sitting since october 23rd ( the date when my last policy ended ) but she wouldnt start, so i called my sister and her husband to bring their truck to charge the battery from a jump start. success was there, and i had it running at idle, for about 30 minutes. restarted the car twice. i was going to drive it the 31st, but that morning about 7.30 am or so, i went out to go for a joy ride, and nothing happened ... so, i bought a new battery, was doing the procedure to put it in. but the crackling noises, in effect, were sparks, and i have been told that no sparks should happen upon either cable going on their respective battery terminals. and since there was evidence of sparks, i removed the battery. so i dont know if she will start up or not.

tomorrow ( monday ) i am going to call a few electrical shops to see if they can install a motorola external speaker kit for cell phones. if so, i will get the car to that place ( whether just hooking up the battery to start the car or getting it towed there ) so they can remove all but the antenna to the motorola kit ( the original antenna to the car was removed, im guessing when the motorola kit was installed, as so that interference would be less if both antennas were in use concurrently )
 

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so once you jumped it and let it run did the charge guage return to normal? what all aftermarket or what not have you done to the car?

audio, video, electronic?
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
the charge gauge showed a tick to the right which i believe is a little bit more than regular ... so everything seemed ok...


me, i have done a couple of oil changes and thats about it ... :dunno


now there is this motorola external cell phone speaker kit installed, and im going to find out if there is an installation manual online or something, so that either i can remove it, or if there isnt one online, take it to a place that can remove it ... best buy might be able to.. they do car audio installations, and this is somewhat similar ...
 

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does the external speaker have an on and off button, maybe it is being left on and the hot wire they attached it to stays on when the key is off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
thanks for that tip twist...


now im on my way to removing the kit :woot



i thank you.

there was a second fuse "hacked" into :dunno


updates to follow :pimp
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
ok

no more wires ( power, speaker, and phone ) where the wires seen.
no external speaker anymore
phone wire was cut, and for awhile i was wondering where it went ... turns out it was the wire poking out of the center console / driver's right leg area ...
:crazy

the motorola unit itself was just velcro'd to some black material ... pulled it off

speaker bracket is the only thing remaining ...


thanks again.

but i havent tried the battery thing again yet :wink
 
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