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Punching Throats
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did a few dead stop pulls and past 5k the car stop accelerating until I shift again. It drives fine if I get up on it a little bit but past 5k it feels like the clutch is letting go. I would like to get all this taken care of in 1 swoop so here is what I am looking at

Spec Stage 3+ Clutch
Spec 8 Bolt Billet Steel Flywheel * I am not sure if I need this *
SR Performance Clutch Adjuster Kit
Ford Racing Roller Pilot Bearing

The end result is $886.96 and I do not think I missed anything that I would need. I am pretty sure my clutch fork will hold up but if y'all deem it necessary I will throw it to the price because its only $40 more.

Any advice what I need or do not need are maybe a different route? I do not need a clutch that is stronger than 800 ft lbs and I only go with SPEC because I had them on my LS6 & LQ9 cars and they were excellent.

Thanks Guys!

Momba
 

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Maybe I am missing something but why would you go with a 3+? That seems like a lot more than over-kill for the car in your signature.
 

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I run a Spec Stage 1 in my car and it's more than adequate for a mild bolt on cobra.
 

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OP,

The Spec clutches should work with the factory flywheel if it's resurfaced, but sometimes if the flywheel surface isn't 100% the clutch can chatter. So, I always recommend getting a Spec Flywheel to go along, this way you're guaranteed not to have any issues.

I think the Stage3 is a little over kill as well. However, I would stick with a Stage2 so you have plenty of room to grow in the future!

Let me know if you have anymore questions I can help with!

Shane
 

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The clutch fork is considered a wear item and are actually meant to be changed when the cluth is. I always get a new one when I do a clutch swap.

I would just resurface the flywheel. I have done NUMEROUS spec installs and the never had any chattering caused by the flywheel. Most chatter is usually caused by poor break in.

I also would suggest going with the 2 or 2+.
 

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Punching Throats
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The only reason I suggested a Spec Stage 3+ is because I will likely never max it out. However if and when I go FI I will already have a built motor so 620Ft lbs seems like I would be cutting it close.

I do not remember the Stage 3+'s giving me any problems or not being un streetable. Are yall suggesting something lower because of the price or because their is something I do not know...
 

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Price is the biggest thing but a stage 1 or 2 should have lower pedal pressure.
 

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Punching Throats
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Alright, well there are always trade offs when you own a sports car and I can get used to pedal pressure with the trade off of installing the above and forgetting about the clutch. I should be able to adjust it pretty well with the clutch adjuster kit though correct?
 

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to a certain point. and if you have already driven a stage 3+ and had no problems on street driving then its all up to you. it seems like sometime you are looking for some high hp numbers so it is always good to plan ahead so you only do the job once
 

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Punching Throats
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That is what I am trying to do.

I did not realize that I have a 10 spline and the Spec 3+ is a 26 spline.

Great!
 

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Why are you going with a billet steel flywheel?! Last time I weighted one it was 26lbs lol.

Atleast get a lightened steel or aluminum flywheel.
 

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Punching Throats
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I might not be now.

If all works out. I will:

T-56 with Promotion 26 Spline input shaft
Promotion Single Disk 750hp clutch
Promotion Clutch Adj Quadrant
Adjustable Cable.

We will seeeee
 

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For a street car I would use a billet steel over an aluminum flywheel any day. The lost inertia of the aluminum flywheel means you have rev the car higher just to move away from a stop light and the revs drop off more between gears.


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App
 

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The added inertia from the billet steel helps break parks like input shafts :)

Also if your worried about having to rev the car a little higher to get the car to move then your probably in the wrong hobby.
 

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The added inertia from the billet steel helps break parks like input shafts :)

Also if your worried about having to rev the car a little higher to get the car to move then your probably in the wrong hobby.
Seriously? That's one of the most out there arguments for an aluminum flywheel I've ever heard.


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App
 

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The added inertia friom the billet steel helps break parks like input shafts :)

Also if your worried about having to rev the car a little higher to get the car to move then your probably in the wrong hobby.
Its ease of drivability is what he was referring to. I agree, a billet steel flywheel on a street car makes it a ton easier ro drive with no effort. And steel or aluminum, torque breaks parts. I broke quite a few TKO 500s with a lightweight aluminum flywheel and billet aluminum pressure plate, so with your theory, I should never of had a problem?

Op, I drive a 3 every day, its in my dd. I would check more places out before dumping a ton on that trans setup from promotion. Call d&d, talk to joe and tell him I sent ya. Call spec, talk to matt, do the same. You,ll get your best deal that way and not get screwed. Get the steeda quadrant, cable and firewall adjuster from them, quality stuff. I drove a stage 3+ on the street and never had a problem. I loved that clutch. I would recommend that if fi is in your future. Btw, my 3+ held up to 600 rwhp and felt like a stocker. Hope this helps.
 

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Punching Throats
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Definitely nxcoupe thank you!

The Promotion stuff is only if I get my V2 kit sold. The guy I would be buying it from goes 10.3 in his Mystichrome Termi and has not had anytype of problems, and is also apart of the Mustang Club I am with here in NC. I figure if he can beat the living **** out of it like he does then my daily use would be a dream for it. Plus I am getting an extremely good deal if all works out and I decide to go with it. $$$ could or could not be tight here soon which is why I am hesitant.

If it comes down to it I will PM you before hand so you know I am putting your name out there just as a courtesy.
 
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