Has anyone heard of this before? I have a 2006 Mustang GT with a little more than 300hp. The other night I went to the drag strip. On my second run I revved it up to 2000 RPM. When I got the green light I dumped the clutch and stomped on the gas. I spun my tires though 1st. When I went to go into second I couldn't shift it with the clutch depressed. I just coasted to the finish. When I did get to the end I finely was able to get it in gear and shift normally. When I talked to my friends they told me they saw blue smoke under my car when it happened. You also could smell the clutch. I was able to get back home with no problems, with the exception of the clutch being a little rough while going into first. I’m pretty sure it’s my clutch, but why did I get it back? I haven't driven it since. Does it sound like I need a new clutch, or is it something else?
Clutch Question
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Sounds like you may need a new clutch im not a expert so im giving my best guess here but if smoke came out that is obviously bad (like you know)
maybe it got stuck or something in the depressed mode? It unstuck it self?
Just guessing and giving you a free bump so others see it and im a post whore...
how bad is it in first? How many launches did you do? How many miles?
maybe it got stuck or something in the depressed mode? It unstuck it self?
Just guessing and giving you a free bump so others see it and im a post whore...
how bad is it in first? How many launches did you do? How many miles?
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I had the same trouble with mine. If I tried to shift over 3 or 4K it would not go, usually 2nd to 3rd. When it did lock up it would not go in any gear. I would end up doing the same coast to the side of the road trick. After I let it settle down for awhile it would shift (rough) as long as I didn't rev it over
3K. It was two days before my warranty expired so I removed my MGW and brought it in to the dealer thinking it was syncros. They told me it was a clutch issue and charged me $100 because the clutch was not under warranty. I went ahead and installed a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch myself with a new slave cylinder and pilot bearing on the stock resurfaced flywheel. All is good now with about 2k miles on the new clutch. I would recommend the Centerforce.
3K. It was two days before my warranty expired so I removed my MGW and brought it in to the dealer thinking it was syncros. They told me it was a clutch issue and charged me $100 because the clutch was not under warranty. I went ahead and installed a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch myself with a new slave cylinder and pilot bearing on the stock resurfaced flywheel. All is good now with about 2k miles on the new clutch. I would recommend the Centerforce.
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That Centerforce dual friction set up will work great for your car too. Make sure to replace that slave.
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That happened in my old car, and my syncros were effed in the A
how many passes had you made? hot lapping or what? How many miles on the car? at 300rwhp you couldn't give me a aftermarket clutch i would consider another stocker. Problem is the aftermarket clutches are much cheaper. Had it happen one time at like 50k on the car. Came around for another lap and it still didnt seem to want to go in gear. The it seemed like once everything cooled down it worked fine and I never actually changed the clutch until 74k.
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476 Posts
The Centerforce looks like a higher quality piece than the stock. Seems to grab better and requires a little more pedal pressure. I brought my stock clutch to my mechanic when it was out and he said it was worn out, 23k miles on it. I must admit I did abuse that clutch, trying to behave with the new one.
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Now that I think about it, the one night that I went to the track with my current mustang, It did well for the first couple of runs down the strip, then by about the 4th/5th run, it didn't wan't to go into gear...so i had to stop running. And I know that i had the clutch all the way in cuz i push it hard enough to almost break my foot. lol
I have under 40K miles, and that night my first run was garbage, so I went around again and that’s when it happened. It scared the crap out of me. I just like to make sure it won’t happen again.
I also saw an article on MM&FF about RAM Clutches Hydraulic Clutch Release install. Has anyone installed this before, if so, is it worth the $435.
Installing a RAM Clutches Hydraulic Clutch Release - Moment Of Release - Muscle Mustangs And Fast Fords Magazine
I also saw an article on MM&FF about RAM Clutches Hydraulic Clutch Release install. Has anyone installed this before, if so, is it worth the $435.
Installing a RAM Clutches Hydraulic Clutch Release - Moment Of Release - Muscle Mustangs And Fast Fords Magazine
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I've installed a couple of the Ram hyd set ups and they both failed. I heard that they are machining the o-ring grooves a bit deeper now, but i haven't seen one. I like the McLeod hyd set up better, but it also has to be installed exactly right or it will leak too.
The Centerforce aluminum flywheel is more money because it's made of aircraft quality aluminum.(something like 7000 series aluminum instead of 6000 series like most) They are a little better than a Fidanza aluminum, but the Fidanza is good enough quality for almost half the price. Less weight and quicker revs is the reason for going with aluminum. Along with an aluminum flywheel you'll really feel it.
The Centerforce aluminum flywheel is more money because it's made of aircraft quality aluminum.(something like 7000 series aluminum instead of 6000 series like most) They are a little better than a Fidanza aluminum, but the Fidanza is good enough quality for almost half the price. Less weight and quicker revs is the reason for going with aluminum. Along with an aluminum flywheel you'll really feel it.
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Get the Roush P51 clutch. Get a stock TOB and pressure plate. If you've got high spots on your OEM flywheel than replace it or get it resurfaced if you can. Drop some Amsoil ATF in it and call it a day. I'm making 530 rwhp / 501 rwtq and run on drag radials and this clutch is holding up like a champ. It grabs perfect and feels just like stock. I see no reason why you need an aluminum flywheel for your car.
Well it spins up faster becuase its lighter. Therefore it slows down faster becuase its lighter. When you push in the clutch like say to make a turn the rpms drop faster. So on some cars....im not really sure about this one, but on some you gotta bump the throttle a little to keep it from stalling. This will also depend on the flywheel you get.
Anyway, i just dont get why at less then 40k, are you still under warranty, you are ready to assume the clutch is gone? I would be wondering why my stocker is gone so fast on basically stock power levels. mine lasted 70k+ with probably more abuse.
Just trying to help. If this is a real problem its doubtfull its really the clutch. I would want to know what cuased it before I dumped a grand in parts with sales pitches only to find something is still wrong. Been there DONE THAT. Clutches slip, you would know if its worn it would be slipping when you shift hard at the track.
Either way good luck.
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