Modded Mustang Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. Can some walk me through step by step on a 96 gt how to change the clutch? I have blocks and can get it off the ground. I need to remove cats. Then the tranny. What are the steps with tranny, and how can i get it out safely with just myself?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
189 Posts
You're going to have to remove the starter as well. There are three bolts to it, and one is tucked behind the starter next to the block and it's a little tough to get to. Found it's a little easier to remove the Mid-pipe with the starter off.

Next comes the drive shaft, a lot of people say to remove the U-joints and take it out that way. I just unbolted the shaft from the differential by means of the 4 bolts at the rear of the Shaft. Once the 4 bolts are off, it may be a little difficult but move the shaft forward and once it comes off it's support, you can pull it to the rear and completely remove it from the vehicle.

After you get that out of the way, make sure to remove the Clutch Cable, and the transmission harness. Tuck it into the wheel well to prevent it from getting in the way.

You're going to have to remove a brace on the under-side of the K-member to be able to have room to get the transmission out, it's looks sort of like a strut brace.

This is purely optional, but if you'd like you can drain the trans fluid since it has a tendency to leak out of the output shaft seal if tilted to the rear.

Inside of the vehicle, you're going to have to remove the Shifter boot, as well as the shift knob and arm. The Knob just twists off, while the arm is just two bolts on the left of the shifter arm. Some people completely remove the shifter assembly from the transmission and replace the gasket or sealant they used so this is another way if you're interested.

Now the transmission itself is not that difficult, but if you're on the ground it can be a B.
I personally did my clutch while on my back on the ground with only myself, a 2-1/2 Ton floor jack and a couple of jack stands. Took me about 8 hours the first time, after that about 4.

Support the transmission with a known good transmission jack, or floor jack, you don't want one that slowly creeps back down. Floor jacks are going to make the job a little more difficult since you have to balance the transmission while moving it up and down but it's do-able.

There are, I believe, 7 bolts that hold the transmission in place on the engine, and two cross member bolts. I would recommend starting with the cross member bolts, and getting that out of the way. This won't be a problem since you're already supporting the transmission with a Jack of some type.

Check the Jack and make sure it's nice and snug against the transmission, then start undoing the Transmission to Motor bolts, the two bolts on top you'll probably need a good sized extension to reach. Since you have the transmission supported you can tilt back the engine/trans slightly to give you more clearance to reach those upper bolts.

When all of the bolts have been removed from the transmission, you'll have to slowly separate the engine and transmission. Be careful as the balancing act begins at this point if you're using anything but a transmission jack. Now the way I did it since I first had to do it with a Floor jack on my ride, I just allowed the transmission to rest on the under side of the car in the bell housing well, then just slowly let the jack down letting it ride along the frame.

Once you get the transmission out of the way, the clutch and flywheel are pretty much right there waiting for you.

When I replaced my clutch on my 96 Mustang GT, I replaced the Clutch Pivot Point, the Rear Main Seal, Pilot Bearing, Clutch Release Bearing and the Clutch fork itself since it had a good amount of wear. I also did the flywheel since I was lazy and didn't want to take it to get resurfaced. I bought the SPEC Billet Steel flywheel that has a remove-able friction plate that can be removed and replaced without resurfacing the flywheel.

I can't remember the Torque specs off of the top of my head for the Flywheel to Engine, Clutch to Flywheel, and Bell Housing to Engine. If anyone can chime in, would be appreciated. I have them somewhere, I'll post them later today if I can.

Reverse the process to re-install.

Quick tip though, get the thread pitch and size of the Bell housing to Engine bolts and go purchase 4 longer ones. When you have the trans in a good position in the back of the engine, thread in these longer bolts and use them as guides. Then one by one replace them with the original Grade 8s.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
417 Posts
Good info, just be sure and align the clutch disc with the tool before you torque the pressure plate down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
189 Posts
Make sure the Alignment tool slides in and out of the pilot bearing without having to wiggle it in, you know it's right when it travels freely into the bearing. If you have to find the bearing by wiggling it slightly, adjust the position of the Clutch disc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thank you very much for the help. This is by far the most detailed log anyone has given me. Thank you. I do have a couple more small questions. I have never drained the transmission fluid or refilled in this car.

Can you tell me the correct way to do this?, correct brand and amount?

Also, when you say "tilt the enging" to help get to the top bolts, how do I do that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
189 Posts
I'm assuming that you have the T-45 5-speed manual transmission with this lol

The T-45 has two plugs on the passenger side, both are towards the tail shaft of the transmission. One Lower plug and one upper plug.

The lower is to drain the transmission fluid, once it's drained to your satisfaction, plug it back up and remove the Upper Plug. Use the Upper hole to refill the transmission when you have bolted the transmission back up to the engine and supported it with its crossmember.

The T45 Transmission takes Mercon V (read: 5) Automatic Transmission Fluid, and the recommended amount is usually when you're filling it and it starts to seep from the hole.

Note: The transmission has to be filled when sitting level or you may over fill or under fill.

As for Tilting the engine, since you're supporting the Transmission with a jack at this point and it's off of its Cross member you can tilt it by lowering and raising the jack. Just be careful not to over do it and let the engine hit the firewall. You only need a few inches of clearance to be able to reach those upper bolts.

I recommend taking the upper bolts off first, then re-leveling the transmission by raising the jack to it's previous position before removing the rest of the bolts.

Hope this helps!! If you have any other questions let me know! Always happy to help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
189 Posts
Let me get you the torque specs while I'm here now.. just need to go to my car and pull the book..

Flywheel Mounting Bolts 75-85 ft/lbs
Transmission Bellhousing to Engine Bolts 28-38 ft/lbs
Drain and Fill plug 12-22 ft/lbs
Driveshaft U Joint to Differential Pinion Bolts 70-95 ft/lbs
Pressure Plate to Flywheel Bolts 12-24 ft/lbs

Note: When doing you're pressure plate to flywheel bolts, ALWAYS do a star pattern. Like you would for lug nuts. This makes sure that the pressure plate sits evenly and prevents it from warping.

If you replace the Rear Main Seal and remove the rear cover, just snug down the bolts. Don't over tighten, if one breaks you may have oil leakage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I wanted to give an update for the progress from this write up. I am attempting to change the clutch tomorrow morning. I currently have the car on cinder blocks right now. I hope to get the exhaust off tonight and then complete everything tomorrow morning. I will continue to give updates. The first snag I am noticing is that the mid pipe was cut and welded for the second set of bolts near the mufflers. I am going to try and completely remove the exhaust from the headers back. may be difficult but looks like the only way. I will try and cut off some welds and remove it all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,377 Posts
Awesome right up!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
You're going to have to remove the starter as well. There are three bolts to it, and one is tucked behind the starter next to the block and it's a little tough to get to. Found it's a little easier to remove the Mid-pipe with the starter off.

Next comes the drive shaft, a lot of people say to remove the U-joints and take it out that way. I just unbolted the shaft from the differential by means of the 4 bolts at the rear of the Shaft. Once the 4 bolts are off, it may be a little difficult but move the shaft forward and once it comes off it's support, you can pull it to the rear and completely remove it from the vehicle.

After you get that out of the way, make sure to remove the Clutch Cable, and the transmission harness. Tuck it into the wheel well to prevent it from getting in the way.

You're going to have to remove a brace on the under-side of the K-member to be able to have room to get the transmission out, it's looks sort of like a strut brace.

This is purely optional, but if you'd like you can drain the trans fluid since it has a tendency to leak out of the output shaft seal if tilted to the rear.

Inside of the vehicle, you're going to have to remove the Shifter boot, as well as the shift knob and arm. The Knob just twists off, while the arm is just two bolts on the left of the shifter arm. Some people completely remove the shifter assembly from the transmission and replace the gasket or sealant they used so this is another way if you're interested.

Now the transmission itself is not that difficult, but if you're on the ground it can be a B.
I personally did my clutch while on my back on the ground with only myself, a 2-1/2 Ton floor jack and a couple of jack stands. Took me about 8 hours the first time, after that about 4.

Support the transmission with a known good transmission jack, or floor jack, you don't want one that slowly creeps back down. Floor jacks are going to make the job a little more difficult since you have to balance the transmission while moving it up and down but it's do-able.

There are, I believe, 7 bolts that hold the transmission in place on the engine, and two cross member bolts. I would recommend starting with the cross member bolts, and getting that out of the way. This won't be a problem since you're already supporting the transmission with a Jack of some type.

Check the Jack and make sure it's nice and snug against the transmission, then start undoing the Transmission to Motor bolts, the two bolts on top you'll probably need a good sized extension to reach. Since you have the transmission supported you can tilt back the engine/trans slightly to give you more clearance to reach those upper bolts.

When all of the bolts have been removed from the transmission, you'll have to slowly separate the engine and transmission. Be careful as the balancing act begins at this point if you're using anything but a transmission jack. Now the way I did it since I first had to do it with a Floor jack on my ride, I just allowed the transmission to rest on the under side of the car in the bell housing well, then just slowly let the jack down letting it ride along the frame.

Once you get the transmission out of the way, the clutch and flywheel are pretty much right there waiting for you.

When I replaced my clutch on my 96 Mustang GT, I replaced the Clutch Pivot Point, the Rear Main Seal, Pilot Bearing, Clutch Release Bearing and the Clutch fork itself since it had a good amount of wear. I also did the flywheel since I was lazy and didn't want to take it to get resurfaced. I bought the SPEC Billet Steel flywheel that has a remove-able friction plate that can be removed and replaced without resurfacing the flywheel.

I can't remember the Torque specs off of the top of my head for the Flywheel to Engine, Clutch to Flywheel, and Bell Housing to Engine. If anyone can chime in, would be appreciated. I have them somewhere, I'll post them later today if I can.

Reverse the process to re-install.

Quick tip though, get the thread pitch and size of the Bell housing to Engine bolts and go purchase 4 longer ones. When you have the trans in a good position in the back of the engine, thread in these longer bolts and use them as guides. Then one by one replace them with the original Grade 8s.
Just a couple points I'd like to add to your awesome info on clutch replacement. I just replaced the clutch in the wife's 2000 GT a few weeks back.
1. Buy a 13mm socket (3/8 Dr.) with the universal built into it. This will be the size you use the most doing this job and is worth it's weight in gold.
2. Buy a 20" long extension in 3/8 and 1/2" drive if you don't already have one. The long 1/2" ext. will be used with a universal and 13mm socket to get the top 2 bellhousing bolts out. I tried doing it with the long 3/8 ext. but it twisted too much because the bolts were so tight. I switched to the 1/2" dr. and it came out easily.
3. To get that WRETCHED starter out. On the 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock bolts use a 13mm 3/8 dr. universal socket AND another universal next to it along with the long extension. Fish this mess through the motor mount from the front of the car, near the radiator and if you have a friend to help you line up the socket now, it helps. You can also wrap a few layers of electrical tape around the universals, so they're not so floppy. The starter wires do not need to be removed as the starter can stay on top of the crossmember for the entire job. BE SURE AND DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE DOING ANYTHING.
4. To put the top (6 o'clock) starter bolt back I used a stubby 13mm combination wrench and reached it from under the bellhousing. You can NOT use this wrench to remove the bolt, as it's probably too tight and you can't get enough leverage.
5. Definitely drain the trans first, unless you like a mess on your hands. Besides you should change the fluid once in a while anyway, and what better time than when you're replacing the clutch.
6. Replace the drain plug (and driveshaft) and refill the trans through the shifter hole with 3 qts. of Mercon trans fluid. Use hi-temp. RTV to seal up the shifter hole and re-install the shifter.
7. Try not to get the nuts mixed up from the front and rear of the factory H-pipe. They are the same size, but a different thread pitch and will not work in reverse.
8. I bought the trans jack from Harbor Freight ($79.99) and changed the trans buy myself lying on my back. A floor jack will work, but is much less stable and lacks the ratchet strap that the trans jack has to hold trans securely in place.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top