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Discussion Starter #1
My transmission won't shift into gear all the time. I can get it into 1st. And then it shifts and drives perfectly fine after that. But sometimes it won't shift into 1st or reverse when I need to reverse . Clutch cable stretched ?
 

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I struggle getting into reverse almost every time and first gear is sometimes an issue. I'm not sure what the problem is either, but I am suspecting bad syncros in my case. Have you tried replacing the transmission fluid? It could be something as simple as bad fluid. Are you using a short throw shifter or the stock shifter? These cars have an adjustable clutch cable. If you put your foot under the clutch cable and pull up until you hear a pop, the clutch cable will automatically adjust.
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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What year is the car? I forgot which transmission it is but I know I have it. Reverse isn't synchroed. Basically you have to pop it in first and engage the clutch then pop it in reverse.

First can be an issue too and I'm not sure how to overcome that. Honestly it happens so rarely I don't pay attention.

That's the trick on reverse tho
 

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As others have said based on which transmission you have it could be normal, reverse anyway lol. 99-mid 01’s have t45s which have an unsynchronized reverse gear. Mid 01-04 all had tr3650s which do have a synchronized reverse but suffer from bad synchros. I would rule out the clutch though. If it gives you trouble try putting it in 3rd or 5th then 1st and see if it improves. When you have trouble getting into 1st will the car roll forward while shifting into 1st?

You can test the synchros very easily. With the car idling and the e brake on (do not push in the clutch at all) start with 1st and go through all the gears. What I mean by this is to push the shifter into each gear, or where a gear would be, with about 5 pounds of pressure. If the rpms dip and you get blocked out your synchros are fine. If if grinds when putting it into any gear youll know that gear has a bad synchro.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry it's a t45 it's a 2001. And it has a mgw short shifter . Last night I had to turn the car off and put it in reverse before starting it
 

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You can test the synchros very easily. With the car idling and the e brake on (do not push in the clutch at all) start with 1st and go through all the gears. What I mean by this is to push the shifter into each gear, or where a gear would be, with about 5 pounds of pressure. If the rpms dip and you get blocked out your synchros are fine. If if grinds when putting it into any gear youll know that gear has a bad synchro.
I've got the 3650, so I'll have to test mine. Thanks!
 

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Sorry it's a t45 it's a 2001. And it has a mgw short shifter . Last night I had to turn the car off and put it in reverse before starting it
I used to have a 00 gt and had such a hard time shifting into reverse. I even had fresh mobile 1 fluid and a steeda sport shifter so it wasnt as floppy as the stocker. None of that helped, the only thing that did was to shift from 5th to reverse and it wasnt a guarentee the gears would mesh. Sometimes Id have to let it roll a little to get it to go into reverse. I read years ago that Ford says to put it in 1st then reverse and itll go in. Ive done it on my 3650s with success, I dont remember if it helped much with my t45 but its worth a shot.

You can test the synchros very easily. With the car idling and the e brake on (do not push in the clutch at all) start with 1st and go through all the gears. What I mean by this is to push the shifter into each gear, or where a gear would be, with about 5 pounds of pressure. If the rpms dip and you get blocked out your synchros are fine. If if grinds when putting it into any gear youll know that gear has a bad synchro.
I've got the 3650, so I'll have to test mine. Thanks!
No problem. Ive used the procedure before and it works. No bad synchros here! Lol
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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That's exactly what I I have to do. Fiest then reverse. Sometimes that doesnt work and i go first, engage clutch, then R.

Yes the t45. Mine is a 2001 with a build date of November 2000. I remember now. I can't believe I'm rolling a 18 year old car. Time flies.

If the syncros are bad what am I looking at? A transmission rebuild or getting a remanned or just upgrade to something or what? Sorry to jack OP but if yours fails the test it could help you too.
 

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Since yours is just a cruiser Id get a remanned or if you really want to have fun rebuild it yourself lol. That is unless you think youre going to run a blower sometime down the road then I would spend the money on an upgraded t45 from thet45source. But if one does test bad its cheaper to swap out the fluid first.
 

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Do the gears grind when you are driving and shifting normally. Do they grind when you downshift? Why do you think your synchronizers are bad?

When I was learning to drive there were still transmissions (mostly in trucks) that didn't have first synchronized. I developed a habit of putting the transmission in second before downshifting to first. I still do that today. If you are having trouble getting into first you might try that.

As as been mentioned above reverse is not synchronized. If you put it into any forward gear and then go to reverse it should move the gears enough so that the teeth line up. Upon occasion I have had to put it in a forward gear and rock the car but that doesn't happen often.

First gear is synchronized. To test this get the car rolling. Put the transmission in neutral and let the clutch out. Then (not rev matching) push in the clutch and put it back in first. It should go in smoothly. If you try the same thing in reverse (and I have) the gears will grind.

If the clutch cable is stretched and the adjuster can't take up the slack you will have a hard time getting the clutch to disengage. The pedal engagement point will be down by the floorboard. This can make it hard to get into first at a dead stop. You can try to get the adjuster to take up the slack by lifting the clutch pedal with your toes. If the engagement point is in the middle of the pedal or at the top then its not a stretched clutch cable.

In various cars and trucks I have burnt clutch discs and torn up pressure plates. In my 426 ci Dodge I once shredded a clutch disc into little pieces. On a different occasion lost a pressure plate and had to drive home across two states without a clutch. No too bad on the highway but sucked going through towns. I've also driven my Mustang (bad pressure plate) and ridden my Harley (broken cable) without a clutch.

A bad pressure plate will not let the clutch disengage. In my Mustang it locked up the transmission and I couldn't shift at all until I shut off the motor. I was 4-5 hours from home and headed out starting the car in first and rev matching. It loosened up and started working again by the time I got home. It would shift fine when cold but I had a hard time getting into first when everything was warmed up. I tried a few things and even thought it might be the transmission but a new clutch and pressure plate was all that it needed.

There's not enough information in your post to know if the clutch cable is stretched our not.

P.S. A burnt clutch doesn't smell like anything else. Its one of those smells you don't ever forget.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It's a t45. 2001
It didn't grind when putting in gears. It's just hard to get them in with the church pressed In . But I did wussy you said and didn't push the clutch. In
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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It's a t45. 2001
It didn't grind when putting in gears. It's just hard to get them in with the church pressed In . But I did wussy you said and didn't push the clutch. In
You could have something as simple as a stretched cable then. That's what it sounds like. Do you have a firewall adjuster?
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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Since yours is just a cruiser Id get a remanned or if you really want to have fun rebuild it yourself lol. That is unless you think youre going to run a blower sometime down the road then I would spend the money on an upgraded t45 from thet45source. But if one does test bad its cheaper to swap out the fluid first.
Thanks man. Mine isn't bad I just like to think down the road.

I was looking to motor swap or build but again that's a year down the road. I made a thread on it earlier. Trying to budget and design.
 

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You could have something as simple as a stretched cable then. That's what it sounds like. Do you have a firewall adjuster?
If the clutch cable is stretched and the adjuster can't take up the slack you will have a hard time getting the clutch to disengage. The pedal engagement point will be down by the floorboard. This can make it hard to get into first at a dead stop. You can try to get the adjuster to take up the slack by lifting the clutch pedal with your toes. If the engagement point is in the middle of the pedal or at the top then its not a stretched clutch cable.
It's easy to determine if its a stretched cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So I replaced the clutch cable yesterday. The first time I started it up, gears went in like butter. After a few uses, it goes back to hard to put in. It's like the clutch doesnt engage right. When i go to push first in, it kinda wants to drive forward. It gives me a hard time putting into any gear from a stop. Like tried putting into 3rd first etc then to 1st but doesn't work. When I go to put into reverse it will sometimes go In smooth, other times it grinds or clumps going in. NONE OF THE GEARS GRIND DURING DRIVING and none grind going in except reverse OCCASIONALLY. If I'm rolling to a stop I can put every gear in just fine. Just from a dead stop I get problems
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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So I replaced the clutch cable yesterday. The first time I started it up, gears went in like butter. After a few uses, it goes back to hard to put in. It's like the clutch doesnt engage right. When i go to push first in, it kinda wants to drive forward. It gives me a hard time putting into any gear from a stop. Like tried putting into 3rd first etc then to 1st but doesn't work. When I go to put into reverse it will sometimes go In smooth, other times it grinds or clumps going in. NONE OF THE GEARS GRIND DURING DRIVING and none grind going in except reverse OCCASIONALLY. If I'm rolling to a stop I can put every gear in just fine. Just from a dead stop I get problems
Do you have a firewall adjuster or aftermarket clutch cable Quadrant? Sounds like you got slack somewhere. Ease that slack up
 

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+1

Is there slack in the cable? Does the clutch engage with the clutch pedal at the floorboard? The engagement point should be more in the middle several inches from the floorboard.

Either the clutch cable adjuster isn't taking up the extra slack or you have a bad pressure plate that is not disengaging properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
No I don't have an adjustable cable or firewall adjuster.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I figured out If I push the gear in, and THEN hold the clutch Down as I push in the gear it'll kinda pop in. The guy said the cltcuh was a centerforce stage 1 or 2 rated for 600hp. But my pedal just seems so light
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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Keep the cable and get a firewall adjuster. You'll be set after that as you can then adjust the cable to where it engages correctly. Don't get an adjustable cable. Oem is best. With my exedy stage 2 even with the stock cable it had to be adjusted. Oem firewall mount didn't cut it.
 
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