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KCCO
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Discussion Starter #1
After several failed attempts at buying **** from craigslist, I am forced to buy stuff new :/. So that being said, I would really rather not have to change the springs, so which cam would be better? I have heard very good things from both CMS and HiTech, however, I have a couple people had problems with the Hitechs. Or are there any better ones than these two?
 

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Cms 1s bro
 

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hitech stage 2's bro.

lol i think either will work fine. i use the hitechs as i told you and they work like a champ. but if your not gonna degree them then go for the cms cams
 

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The only people who've had problems with the HiTechs are the ones that haven't taken the time and degreed them to the proper specs. They are close on PTV contact, and the factory Ford cam gears are known not to be exactly accurate, in fact, I've seen 2 sets now that were 7 degrees off on the passenger's side gear. It's always the passenger's side that's off for some reason. If you happen to have a gear that's more than a couple degrees off, you're going to have PTV contact with them. When they're degreed in, they have clearance.

The HiTech Stage 2's have a reputation of being one of the best cams for stock heads, and make around the same power as the CMS Stage 2's, so if you're willing to put the time (or money) into having them degreed in, they would be the obvious choice over the CMS Stage 1's.

Now, if you compare the two company's Stage 2 cams side by side, the lines become a bit more blurred. Both make similar power on stock heads. Typically with them both degreed in properly, the HiTechs will make a few more horsepower, but nothing significant. However, when ported heads are introduced, the CMS Stage 2's start to shine, and will outperform the HiTechs in ported heads. So I tell everyone that if you are going to stick with stock heads, get the HiTechs, but if you're going to eventually end up with ported heads, get the CMS Stage 2's.
 

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KCCO
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Discussion Starter #6
The only people who've had problems with the HiTechs are the ones that haven't taken the time and degreed them to the proper specs. They are close on PTV contact, and the factory Ford cam gears are known not to be exactly accurate, in fact, I've seen 2 sets now that were 7 degrees off on the passenger's side gear. It's always the passenger's side that's off for some reason. If you happen to have a gear that's more than a couple degrees off, you're going to have PTV contact with them. When they're degreed in, they have clearance.

The HiTech Stage 2's have a reputation of being one of the best cams for stock heads, and make around the same power as the CMS Stage 2's, so if you're willing to put the time (or money) into having them degreed in, they would be the obvious choice over the CMS Stage 1's.

Now, if you compare the two company's Stage 2 cams side by side, the lines become a bit more blurred. Both make similar power on stock heads. Typically with them both degreed in properly, the HiTechs will make a few more horsepower, but nothing significant. However, when ported heads are introduced, the CMS Stage 2's start to shine, and will outperform the HiTechs in ported heads. So I tell everyone that if you are going to stick with stock heads, get the HiTechs, but if you're going to eventually end up with ported heads, get the CMS Stage 2's.
Seems like you know your stuff... One thing that kinda turned me off from the hitechs is how people say their dyno graphs are kinda weird and they lose more low end power than the cms, Not having to have the cms ones degreed is a big plus too...
 

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Seems like you know your stuff... One thing that kinda turned me off from the hitechs is how people say their dyno graphs are kinda weird and they lose more low end power than the cms, Not having to have the cms ones degreed is a big plus too...
Any set of cams with as much duration as the hitechs or comp 270s (identical intake lobes) are going to have weak low-midrange on these cars unless you notch the pistons or modify the intake valves. You also NEED to degree them for sure.

If you are paying full price now, the cms stage 1s are the way to go for your goals.
 

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KCCO
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Discussion Starter #8
Ya I was gonna order the CMS 1's tonight but I forgot I have t wait 24hrs or somethin like that for my money to transfer from my account to my credit card. So I will be ordering them tomorrow :)
 

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if your not changing the springs & degreeing the cams, save your money.


even if your doing both, on a tight budget (just guessing based on your past posts) theres pleny of things that will benifit you more than cams anyway.
 

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The CMS/VT stage 1 cams work pretty well but as Casper said if you are going to take short cuts don't bother.
 

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I think high tech's will give you more HP #'s but like TBird said if you google and look at the dyno graphs of high tech's to CMS stage II's the CMS power looks like a small incline where the High Techs look more like a mountain lol i would rather have a cam that i can use the power everywhere and not just have peak HP
 

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Depends on the application Dave. When I'm at the track, I'm launching at 5500rpms (usually) and shifting at 6000, and will be going through the traps around 6300 with the 4.30's. At no time am I ever below 4000rpms during a run, so who cares if my car doesn't make power at 3200rpms?

Now, if it's primarily a daily driven street car, I may want power below 4000rpms, and since mod motors don't make squat for power below 3000 even in stock form, putting cams in is probably not a good idea, unless you're running 4.10 or 4.30 gears. Any time you up the duration on your cams, it's going to move the rpm range up higher, no matter what the cam is. It's up to the individual user to match the cam's operating range to what they want in their car.
 

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Depends on the application Dave. When I'm at the track, I'm launching at 5500rpms (usually) and shifting at 6000, and will be going through the traps around 6300 with the 4.30's. At no time am I ever below 4000rpms during a run, so who cares if my car doesn't make power at 3200rpms?

Now, if it's primarily a daily driven street car, I may want power below 4000rpms, and since mod motors don't make squat for power below 3000 even in stock form, putting cams in is probably not a good idea, unless you're running 4.10 or 4.30 gears. Any time you up the duration on your cams, it's going to move the rpm range up higher, no matter what the cam is. It's up to the individual user to match the cam's operating range to what they want in their car.
Agreed:D
 

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KCCO
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Discussion Starter #15
Depends on the application Dave. When I'm at the track, I'm launching at 5500rpms (usually) and shifting at 6000, and will be going through the traps around 6300 with the 4.30's. At no time am I ever below 4000rpms during a run, so who cares if my car doesn't make power at 3200rpms?

Now, if it's primarily a daily driven street car, I may want power below 4000rpms, and since mod motors don't make squat for power below 3000 even in stock form, putting cams in is probably not a good idea, unless you're running 4.10 or 4.30 gears. Any time you up the duration on your cams, it's going to move the rpm range up higher, no matter what the cam is. It's up to the individual user to match the cam's operating range to what they want in their car.
Well I do have 4.10's but my car is primarily a summertime dd, which I why Im pretty decided on going with the cms stage 1's. The peak hp difference is only 5 less than the stage 2's but theres also more power down low, I dont have to mess with springs, and theres a more usable rpm range.

Stage 1: 25-30rwhp, 2500-6000rpm, springs not required, noticeable idle, tune suggested

Stage 2: 30-35rwhp, 2800-6200rpm, springs required, aggressive idle, tune required
 

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KCCO
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Discussion Starter #16
if your not changing the springs & degreeing the cams, save your money.


even if your doing both, on a tight budget (just guessing based on your past posts) theres pleny of things that will benifit you more than cams anyway.
Like what?
 

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Like what?
control arms, tires, subframe connectors, shifter if you don't have one, thermostat & fan adjustment, etc, etc.

cams alone without springs (to cover the extended rpm range) or head work (to help flow with the new cams) are ok but not the ultimate supreme mod.
 

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KCCO
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Discussion Starter #18
Do you honestly think I'd be more happy with sfc's, lca's, and a thermostat than cams? My car isnt an all out drag car so more power throughout the rpm range would be more useful to me than being able to launch better, etc
 

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Do you honestly think I'd be more happy with sfc's, lca's, and a thermostat than cams? My car isnt an all out drag car so more power throughout the rpm range would be more useful to me than being able to launch better, etc
for the money spent on cams I think you'll be sorry.

if you just want more power & don't care about building the car as a package, nitrous or a blower would be a better bet for you.

on a very good day you'll see 25-30 hp from cams, that helps but its not the earth shattering performance you think it is.
 

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Depends on the application Dave. When I'm at the track, I'm launching at 5500rpms (usually) and shifting at 6000, and will be going through the traps around 6300 with the 4.30's. At no time am I ever below 4000rpms during a run, so who cares if my car doesn't make power at 3200rpms?

Now, if it's primarily a daily driven street car, I may want power below 4000rpms, and since mod motors don't make squat for power below 3000 even in stock form, putting cams in is probably not a good idea, unless you're running 4.10 or 4.30 gears. Any time you up the duration on your cams, it's going to move the rpm range up higher, no matter what the cam is. It's up to the individual user to match the cam's operating range to what they want in their car.
yeah my car gained power at any rpm over 3800...at no point do i ever come close to going below that at the track...and when i swap to a stalled automatic it will be impossible to ever be below that at WOT
 
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