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Interesting.....

What is the JMS fuelmax? is that like a Boost a Pump?

I have a V1 upgraded to Si trim intercooled, 3.125 pulley making 13psi, 340 pump returnless, 42 pound EV1 injectors and VMP slot MAF. I maxed my pump out at 448whp @6300 RPM. Tuner told me he could have carried it out to 6500 with 60lb injectors. I'm going to install my Boost a Pump and 80lb injectors soon but am collecting things for a return system as well.

Its cool how so many of these setups seem so similar but are still so different.
Im running this one which is discontinued JMS PowerMAX FuelMAX V1 - (Discontinued Order Version 2) Fuel Pump Voltage Booster - JMS I found mine new on ebay for alot less than that, maybe 250.00. Their new one is JMS PowerMAX FuelMAX Fuel Pump Voltage Booster. Its much better than the KB BAP, heres a good video explaining the nitty gritty

My setup at 6400 RPM im only at 75-80 FPDC and 42#green top injectors. Im running a tonsil style MAF setup as a blow through. I also gained roughly 1lb of boost after I ditched my power pipe, reality is air doesnt like changing direction and I dont know how anyone thats intercooled actually benefited from the power pipe, if you have an efficient intercooler the air temp coming in is going to make a big difference. My tuner even told me to ditch it, all it ever did for me was suck up ludicrous amounts of water when it rained. I'm also running an R series mishimoto IC
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Good info! - I'm thinking it helps slightly that I still have a return system. I should still be okay with stock rails a 340 pump and 60lb inj with close to 500whp
 

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Carving corners
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Good info! - I'm thinking it helps slightly that I still have a return system. I should still be okay with stock rails a 340 pump and 60lb inj with close to 500whp
Yea you should be fine, walbaro makes a drop in fuel pump https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EBOP2ZO/ref=ox_sc_sfl_image_12?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ANIBE8FYB004C that can support up to low 500s whp according to the guys at fore. Its less LPH but its way more efficient so it can keep up, I may end up going this route, the only downside is the PPRV is embedded in the fuel pump and it may cause hesitation between shifts which would than need to be re-tuned. Also a side note on my fuel max im only at 75% capacity for overdriving the pump so there's some food for thought.

---------- Post added at 05:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:01 PM ----------

I highly recommend calling fore for any fuel related questions those guys are on point and very willing to help get you on the right track, no bs
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Yea you should be fine, walbaro makes a drop in fuel pump https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EBOP2ZO/ref=ox_sc_sfl_image_12?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ANIBE8FYB004C that can support up to low 500s whp according to the guys at fore. Its less LPH but its way more efficient so it can keep up, I may end up going this route, the only downside is the PPRV is embedded in the fuel pump and it may cause hesitation between shifts which would than need to be re-tuned. Also a side note on my fuel max im only at 75% capacity for overdriving the pump so there's some food for thought.
I actually have the same pump in my car right now just setup for the 98 car..... https://www.cjponyparts.com/walbro-high-performance-fuel-pump-kit-255-lph-without-california-emissions-1998/p/FP227HP2/

I even have holes drilled into the bucket to prevent the bucket from sucking dry and it has been working great but I cant let the tank get 1/4 tank or less as the pickup on the bucket sucks dry.
 

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Carving corners
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I actually have the same pump in my car right now just setup for the 98 car..... https://www.cjponyparts.com/walbro-high-performance-fuel-pump-kit-255-lph-without-california-emissions-1998/p/FP227HP2/

I even have holes drilled into the bucket to prevent the bucket from sucking dry and it has been working great but I cant let the tank get 1/4 tank or less as the pickup on the bucket sucks dry.
Interesting info I learned from fore is the reason it's sucking dry is because there are holes in the basket, that basket is designed differently from the stock one to fill faster, so drilling holes is actually no good. I too can not have anything under 1/4 and during my auto x events under 3/8.
 

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Interesting info I learned from fore is the reason it's sucking dry is because there are holes in the basket, that basket is designed differently from the stock one to fill faster, so drilling holes is actually no good. I too can not have anything under 1/4 and during my auto x events under 3/8.
Yes, I'm kind of kicking myself for doing it. Doesnt matter though as soon as I switch out to the 97 older fuel tank that wont be a problem.
 

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Im running this one which is discontinued JMS PowerMAX FuelMAX V1 - (Discontinued Order Version 2) Fuel Pump Voltage Booster - JMS I found mine new on ebay for alot less than that, maybe 250.00. Their new one is JMS PowerMAX FuelMAX Fuel Pump Voltage Booster. Its much better than the KB BAP, heres a good video explaining the nitty gritty JMS PowerMAX FuelMAX Fuel Pump Booster vs Kenne Bell Boost A Pump(40a) - YouTube

My setup at 6400 RPM im only at 75-80 FPDC and 42#green top injectors. Im running a tonsil style MAF setup as a blow through. I also gained roughly 1lb of boost after I ditched my power pipe, reality is air doesnt like changing direction and I dont know how anyone thats intercooled actually benefited from the power pipe, if you have an efficient intercooler the air temp coming in is going to make a big difference. My tuner even told me to ditch it, all it ever did for me was suck up ludicrous amounts of water when it rained. I'm also running an R series mishimoto IC
So what are you using for the inlet? turbo screen or just a filter on the head unit? Also are you guys still on the stock bottom end?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
So what are you using for the inlet? turbo screen or just a filter on the head unit? Also are you guys still on the stock bottom end?
No filter for me atleast at the race track- I have a power pipe and filter I run if driving on the streets. Built bottom end - Coyote Boss Rods and Mahle Forged Pistons.

 

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Carving corners
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No filter for me atleast at the race track- I have a power pipe and filter I run if driving on the streets. Built bottom end - Coyote Boss Rods and Mahle Forged Pistons.

I'm curious, can you elaborate more on your build? Cost, parts etc. I want to buy a Lincoln mark viii engine and tear it down for the block and see the differences and build on the teksid platform

---------- Post added at 10:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:33 PM ----------

I think if I was in the 650whp game I'd be happy...... Maybe
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I'm curious, can you elaborate more on your build? Cost, parts etc. I want to buy a Lincoln mark viii engine and tear it down for the block and see the differences and build on the teksid platform

---------- Post added at 10:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:33 PM ----------

I think if I was in the 650whp game I'd be happy...... Maybe
Absolutely,

Engine
  • Shortblock is the original NPI Romeo 4.6 - I disassembled it, cleaned it, honed the cylinders and installed some 16cc dished Mahle pistons at standard bore
  • It has the stock 6-bolt steel crank with ARP main cap bolts
  • Rods are the 2013 Boss Coyote rods
  • Cylinder heads are factory 02 PI Romeos
Blower
  • Vortech V3
  • CX Racing 3" FMIC
  • 3.15" Pulley
  • Vortech Maxflow Open Race BPV
Fuel
  • Walbro 255lph
  • Stock rails w/Deka 60lb inj
  • VMP5000 Slot blow-thru maf
Really basic setup - I have around $1500 in the motor / $2500 in the blower and maybe $400 in fuel
I would love to have around 500whp after the cams. I will need to get some ported heads and maybe switch to E-85 to go further with it.
 

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Carving corners
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Absolutely,

Engine
  • Shortblock is the original NPI Romeo 4.6 - I disassembled it, cleaned it, honed the cylinders and installed some 16cc dished Mahle pistons at standard bore
  • It has the stock 6-bolt steel crank with ARP main cap bolts
  • Rods are the 2013 Boss Coyote rods
  • Cylinder heads are factory 02 PI Romeos
Blower
  • Vortech V3
  • CX Racing 3" FMIC
  • 3.15" Pulley
  • Vortech Maxflow Open Race BPV
Fuel
  • Walbro 255lph
  • Stock rails w/Deka 60lb inj
  • VMP5000 Slot blow-thru maf
Really basic setup - I have around $1500 in the motor / $2500 in the blower and maybe $400 in fuel
I would love to have around 500whp after the cams. I will need to get some ported heads and maybe switch to E-85 to go further with it.
That's awesome, how much hp you think those boss rods are good for?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
That's awesome, how much hp you think those boss rods are good for?
Guys have done 700whp with the boss rods. They should last plenty long in this 2v lol

Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk
 

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That's awesome, how much hp you think those boss rods are good for?
The Boss motor is not a Coyote motor it is the roadrunner motor and guys are getting 1200whp out of them bone stock with turbo setups. I'm sure the rods are good for at least 900 in a 2v.

One word of caution I purchased a set of these rods awhile back and they were not yet cracked. They were cheap though like $145 for 8. Problem was all the places I called to crack them wanted around $300.

OP can you post up the part number you bought and were they cracked?
 

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Discussion Starter #36
The Boss motor is not a Coyote motor it is the roadrunner motor and guys are getting 1200whp out of them bone stock with turbo setups. I'm sure the rods are good for at least 900 in a 2v.

One word of caution I purchased a set of these rods awhile back and they were not yet cracked. They were cheap though like $145 for 8. Problem was all the places I called to crack them wanted around $300.

OP can you post up the part number you bought and were they cracked?

No problem I bought my rods from Autonation Ford - https://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/ford/mustang/cr3z6200b/2013-year/boss-302-trim/5-0l-v8-gas-engine/engine-cat/engine-scat/?part_name=connecting-rod

Part# is CR3Z-6200-B

At the time after shipping I paid around $200 to my door. Judging from their website that looks to be the same. Mine came pre-cracked but I did have to loosen the rod bolts a little bit and give the rod cap a slight wack with a rubber mallet to set them free.

 

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Discussion Starter #37
Got my cams back from the degree service.....

Tearing down the old timing components....


Replacing the valve springs and valve stem seals


Old Vs New Valve Springs , these are the cms stg2 600lift springs


All the old springs and seals are out


New Vs Old Oil Pump , this is a cobra pump with billet boundary gears



All timed up after a few turns of the crank to be sure there were no ptvc issues



Easy install. Looking forward to firing her up.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
That sounds great. Did you advance them at all. What exhaust are you running
I'm not sure I had them degreed by mhs. LTs o/r xpipe and summit resonators dumped.

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