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Will these cams clear my pistons? Obviously will need to be degreed and such, which isn't a big deal. just wondering if they can fit if not i'll just keep looking for 270's
 

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I had them in my 04 with stock pistons. Be sure to get the springs to go with them. They will need to be degreed correctly but they will fit. Here's a vid of them.
 

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I've never seen a set of 278's that actually cleared stock pistons, even when degreed in. I know a couple people who thought they cleared, until they had valve stem problems a few thousand miles later, pulled the heads and realized that the cams had made their own reliefs.

Either that, or they were installed so retarded that they aren't actually making the power they should.

Don't believe the hype. They won't clear......
 

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I've never seen a set of 278's that actually cleared stock pistons, even when degreed in. I know a couple people who thought they cleared, until they had valve stem problems a few thousand miles later, pulled the heads and realized that the cams had made their own reliefs.

Either that, or they were installed so retarded that they aren't actually making the power they should.

Don't believe the hype. They won't clear......
What he said.
 

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You guys use the steel retainers? or the expensive ones? also, you guys running the adjustable cam gears or did you keyaway the stockers?
I used the Trick flow crank gears. Worked like a charm. However my 270s were pretty tight even when retarded 3 degrees. I wouldn't do the 278 with stock valves and pistons.
 

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I used Cloyes gears with my 270's. I think we ended up running them 4.5 degrees retarded to get enough PTV clearance.
 

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That sounds like you used to have one mean ass 2v. So my next question is. Where can i find them the cheapest?
I got them from Summit.

Are those 270 or 278
278's.

You guys use the steel retainers? or the expensive ones? also, you guys running the adjustable cam gears or did you keyaway the stockers?
It had steel retainers with stock gears.

I bet that thing is a beast top end... what all was done to it?
Cams, L/T headers, off road X, CAI, Accufab TB and plenum, 4.10 gears. It was fun, but had to get rid of it.
 

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The 278s will suck for most people that drive their stang on the street. There is very little power below 2500 but it screams 5000+. If you have a 4r70w the 278s would probably be better since you could stall it at 3000+.
 

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The 278s will suck for most people that drive their stang on the street. There is very little power below 2500 but it screams 5000+. If you have a 4r70w the 278s would probably be better since you could stall it at 3000+.
This is true. The power poured on after 4k so I was only ever able to enjoy the power when I opened it up. Also, being stuck in traffic sucked cause there was no such thing as idling through traffic. I had to work the clutch and go pedal a lot to keep it running. At the track it was a different story because I could really use the high RPM's.
 

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This is true. The power poured on after 4k so I was only ever able to enjoy the power when I opened it up. Also, being stuck in traffic sucked cause there was no such thing as idling through traffic. I had to work the clutch and go pedal a lot to keep it running. At the track it was a different story because I could really use the high RPM's.
I have my 278s tuned as good as possible and it does not stall. BUT it does not have much power below 2000 about 2500 it ****ing takes off. I am running 17# of boost at 2000 so it kind of makes up for for the cam a little. I also run a twin disk McLeod RXT that is very smooth. With the previous Kevlar clutch getting going was a real pain. All that being said the 278 are not for your every day mustang owner. :D
 

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Cars with stock heads and no boost would be faster with 262's than 278's......
 

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If you are dead set on some 278's, I would sell you mine for a good price. I have been wanting to step up to a CMS stage 4 or bigger. Let me know Mike
 
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