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Discussion Starter #1
Alrighty guys after having 2 different carb shops and myself try to tune my holley 670 sa its still screwing up and Im tired of messing with it so tonight I am pulling the plug on a new Quick Fuel carb.

I called quick fuel originally planning on buying a slayer or HR vacuum sec. and once I told the guy it was a auto with a 3000 stall he recommended a 650 HR DP mech. secondary. He said I had enough gear and stall that the mechanical or vacuum secondaries really wouldn't make a difference on the streetability. I have herd nothing but good things about quickfuel but I just wanted a few opinions on this before I went and bought the wrong carb. this car sees the track every 2 weeks or so and is also driven almost daily. everything else should be in my sig below thanks in advance just wondering how many guys are running auto's with mech. carbs daily?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ive had many carbed cars but I have never used a mech secondary carb so Im a little iffy on jumping on it, how do they work the secondaries just start opening after the primary butter flys are so far open ? if so I understand how the stall would let the carb work on an automatic, Ive just always herd vacuum sec. are more for autos by everyone so thats what I have always done.
 

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First off, if it's a performance car, I'd own nothing less than a mechanical secondary double pumper carb.

I bought a new Quick Fuel 650HR carb a year ago for my 5.0 Capri. The carb runs great with lots of power & response. The problem I'm having is running rich while normal driving. If I jet down then I get a part throttle stumble & lean at WOT! I've tried power valves, high speed air bleeds but still have the rich @ cruise problem. I'm tired of dealing with it, so I bought a MegaSquirt II, EFI Spyder intake & Edelbrock 4150 style TB. Can't wait to get it all installed so I can tune the car the way I want it!!
 

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First off, if it's a performance car, I'd own nothing less than a mechanical secondary double pumper carb.
Amen. I've had vacuums and the mechanical is much better, as long as the motor can take it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have done alot of searching on quick fuel reviews and that is one of the first bad ones ive herd but Im going to pull the plug on a 650 mechanical dp tonight.

4eyedfox I dont see a cam in your sig are you making those power numbers on a ho cam ?
 

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I do know much about the cam except it's a small base cam, since it's a 70's block converted to a roller using stock newer setup. Most guesses would put it around .520 lift.
 

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I have not, yet. But I've played around with some that have, and would put a guess at 13.3
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Naa u should run faster then that, I ran a 13.3 @ at the end of this season spinning out of the hole all the way to the 330 mark. (Trak lock is 110% fried) which brings another problem, if I rebuild the TL will both tires lock off the line or will the power still be unevenly distributed? Just trying to decide If forking the extra cash for a diff is worth it
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm sure it was the one wheel wonder, as much as I'd like to think my car has the power to spin both drag radials that far lol. After 2 trips to the track like that and some spirited daily driving my driver side tire has 50-60% tread and my passenger is straight bald
 

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then id say its time for a rebuild at least lol
 

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Discussion Starter #16
How hard is it to rebuild the t-lok I know rear ends can be a pain but I'm leaving the same gears and all shouldn't it be a bolt in and go thing? Or is it more complicated then that.
 

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I had a fried diff when I got mine, 1 wheel spin to about 60. I put an extra clutch in the pack at rebuild, to tighten the tension, and it locks up good, I've never been able to get just 1 to spin, yet it's still quiet through corners. If you keep track of all the shims and bearings and put them back the same way, it's not that hard to do the diff.

I had little knack knack stuff that kept me from the track this year, I can't wait to see for sure what I can run. I'd like to think if I throw a tire on, it would be maybe 12.7
 

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Discussion Starter #18
well just got my quickfuel 650 today and wow talk about a piece of art! Everything about this carb makes my holley SA look like a joke. billet parts/ precision made everything even the fuel feed line reducers that I had to take out for my 8AN feed lines were like machined aircraft aluminum (my holleys were brass and stripped half the threads when I removed them to install the larger feed lines) glass fuel sight glasses, even the carb base gasket in the box with it is much higher quality. I almost feel Im advertising it haha but it is really sad that this carb was only $16 more than the SA and I get all of this. Honestly Holley will really have to step up their game for me to ever consider another carb again. I have had some good running holleys but either way you cant even compare the quality. I just hope it runs as well as its made but Ill know here in a few hours
 
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